CK5
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1969 C10

Slow process of putting it back together.
I regret selling most every vehicle I’ve owned.

We’ll see how it goes. I’m making a cart at summit with essentials and same for lmc to see what I need just to get rolling. If it’s less than what I think, (around $2,000) I may just keep the K5
 
Ok big shipment from summit arrived today. I still need some more but this should get the engine together. I forgot oil pressure sender. Some other stuff coming from amazon.

I don’t know what year my 350 is. I hope this intake is correct. It says pre 1986 but this is Mexico crate from I don’t know when.

I’m going to start a new thread for putting that 350 back together. I’ve been binging on videos but since it will be my first time. I’d like a thread that isn’t overloaded with my posts deviating from the topic.

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Can anyone please recommend an oil pressure sensor? Im finding it confusing in getting a correct one...

I have the stock gauges so far and haven’t decided if Dakota digital will go in or, but most likely they will. I think there kit comes with it. But....
 
Decide which guages your going to be running and then get an oil pressure sensor that is compatable. Same with water temp...
 
Stock gauges would have a line to the mechanical gauge. The trucks without gauges used senders for the lights.
The line goes into the block next to the distributor.
 
Will that electric kickdown on TH400 that hooks to the gas pedal be an issue in this truck? I’d rather have a th350 if anyone wants to trade or something..
 
I think a nice “old school” look would look cool. So, in going forward with these Ram Horns..

Why is one set of bolts longer?
Ceramic coat then or Silver vht paint?
 
I honestly can't remember if the '69 trucks had the kickdown switch on the pedal, or at the back of the carburetor. I can't go look at my Dad's truck easily, it's covered in his crowded shop.
I don't see any reason why you can't put it at the pedal, especially since you are doing the wiring.
If you use the transmission that you have, you should have the driveshaft and yoke, correct? You would have to get a longer driveshaft, and a different yoke for a TH350.

Are you asking about the collector bolts on the manifolds? On side could have had a heat riser flapper, in a block that bolted in line with the pipe.
 
I honestly can't remember if the '69 trucks had the kickdown switch on the pedal, or at the back of the carburetor. I can't go look at my Dad's truck easily, it's covered in his crowded shop.
I don't see any reason why you can't put it at the pedal, especially since you are doing the wiring.
If you use the transmission that you have, you should have the driveshaft and yoke, correct? You would have to get a longer driveshaft, and a different yoke for a TH350.

Are you asking about the collector bolts on the manifolds? On side could have had a heat riser flapper, in a block that bolted in line with the pipe.
I have the drive shaft but I have no idea if it was ever used with this TH400... the drive shaft is beat to shiz, so a complete rebuild or new driveshaft will be needed no matter the transmission I decide on.
 
Back when that truck was new you could order it almost anyway you wanted it. That said I don't believe a TH400 was regular offer in short box C10, esp behind a small block. The th350 would have been the 1st choice. In the intervening 51 years anything could have been changed.
 
The mechanical fuel pump I got has only two lines..
I could have sworn these trucks need 3?
 
That damper might be all the way on. I thought you had already used the new tool. The center bolt should pull it the rest of the way, just set your torque wrench to finial 60 ft pds.

No return on a sixty 69
 
That damper might be all the way on. I thought you had already used the new tool. The center bolt should pull it the rest of the way, just set your torque wrench to finial 60 ft pds.

No return on a sixty 69
Right but if I swap to frame rail tank and inlet/outlet/vent would be needed on the mechanical fuel pump, correct?

Anyway I don’t really get why people move the tank other than the gas smell...if the tank blows up, being in the frame rails or behind seat, I doubt you’d survive no matter where it is.

Edit. I have a tank already that goes behind the seat. In order to save some $$ I’m just going to keep it there. I don’t need a stereo systems to bump music. I’m not an overly tall person either. So...
 
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