CK5
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1969 C10

Slow process of putting it back together.
For the motor mount- the new ones don’t break like the old ones. IIRC, they have a internal part that keeps them from separating. There was a recall back in the day. I remember my dad used to just use a chain as a fix.
 
I have one of those, well the socket part. Didn't think to try that. I think it may be too long to get in there though
Not the so much the socket part, the ratchet has a flex head and a 30* bend in the handle.
 
Might take more than 1 style of tool or all of them. I some times have 3-4 different sockets all to do same bolt.
And sometimes you just have to suck it up and take stuff off that's in the way.

Glad you found the the loose wheel, that would have brought the suck.
 
So your picture to me, doesn't even give me concerns, but I am a tool whore.

Flex head 3/8" ratchet, 8" handle, 1" 3/8" wobble head extension, short chrome 3/8" drive socket, is that 9/16" or 5/8" bolt head?
Same flex head ratchet and medium deep socket.
Or a straight 3/8" drive 8" handle, and an impact wobble socket.
 
I went to harbor freight and it felt like when I was a kid at Toys R' Us..
I'll figure something out. The main issue is the blue battery/starter cable, it's right where I need to be. Then the fuel pump and etc etc..
 
Just my own paranoia and always hunting for issues. The engine seemed to wiggle too much at idle, but it's no more or less than my blazer. So I thought maybe the brake booster was going out. So I pulled the hose from the booster and idle got worse, plugged it back in and it seemed fine..

Haha
 
May try these...
I don't mess around with stubby ones. Old cranky wrists make it difficult to get enough torque with a stubby.
And make sure that you get a fine tooth ratchet!
 
That's why I opted to go with rubber in my C10. Although it probably doesn't make that much difference all things considered.
 
I honestly didn't even think about it. I googled 1969 c10 motor mounts and those came up. Then I stared falling in the rabbit hole of, putting 73-87 perches and clam shell mounts, tubular perches, having to cut holes in the frame... Bla Bla Bla... I got these energy suspension ones. They work well enough for now

I will however, next time, attach the perches first as I've read that is easier to line up. As opposed to trying to line up the bolt hole for the mount through the perch.
 
maybe someone has answer.

New outer door handles.
When I lock the doors they stay locked but when you close the door they unlock.
Hahaha

If I try holding the push button part closed and lock it, then shut the door, it still unlocks.

If I'm in cab they lock or if the door is closed and you lock it with the key they lock, passenger side barrel is a bit stiff. I dumped some wd40 all in there and in the key hole, I know it's not a lubricant but it's all I had.

So something in the process of the door latching is causing them to unlock.

Any ideas?
I will have to check mine when I am home, I thought you could hold button all the way in manually push the lock down and shut the door with the button down?
 
I will have to check mine when I am home, I thought you could hold button all the way in manually push the lock down and shut the door with the button down?
I tried that but as soon as the door shuts the lock opens
 
Been thinking of upgrading and or getting a new brake booster and master cylinder.
I see Speedway has two universal kits.
I have disc/drum and I'm not sure what they mean by "bore". One is 1" bore the other 1 1/8 bore, how do I know which I would need?

They sell a direct fit with 11' booster for $350


But 2 universal ones for half that price at around $180
 
Been thinking of upgrading and or getting a new brake booster and master cylinder.
I see Speedway has two universal kits.
I have disc/drum and I'm not sure what they mean by "bore". One is 1" bore the other 1 1/8 bore, how do I know which I would need?

They sell a direct fit with 11' booster for $350


But 2 universal ones for half that price at around $180
 
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