I have one of those, well the socket part. Didn't think to try that. I think it may be too long to get in there thoughSame here. Mine was sold as “spark plug” ratchet back in the day by SK.
I have one of those, well the socket part. Didn't think to try that. I think it may be too long to get in there thoughSame here. Mine was sold as “spark plug” ratchet back in the day by SK.
Not the so much the socket part, the ratchet has a flex head and a 30* bend in the handle.I have one of those, well the socket part. Didn't think to try that. I think it may be too long to get in there though

I recommend this instead, it is a good tool will serve you well for many yearsMay try these...
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Flex-Head Stubby Ratchet Set, 3-Piece
Amazing deals on this 3Pc Flex-Head Stubby Ratchet Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
I don't mess around with stubby ones. Old cranky wrists make it difficult to get enough torque with a stubby.May try these...
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Flex-Head Stubby Ratchet Set, 3-Piece
Amazing deals on this 3Pc Flex-Head Stubby Ratchet Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
I'm now noticing this. My Blazer doesn't have that type of motor mount.The poly mounts will amplify the felt vibrations.
I will have to check mine when I am home, I thought you could hold button all the way in manually push the lock down and shut the door with the button down?maybe someone has answer.
New outer door handles.
When I lock the doors they stay locked but when you close the door they unlock.
Hahaha
If I try holding the push button part closed and lock it, then shut the door, it still unlocks.
If I'm in cab they lock or if the door is closed and you lock it with the key they lock, passenger side barrel is a bit stiff. I dumped some wd40 all in there and in the key hole, I know it's not a lubricant but it's all I had.
So something in the process of the door latching is causing them to unlock.
Any ideas?
I tried that but as soon as the door shuts the lock opensI will have to check mine when I am home, I thought you could hold button all the way in manually push the lock down and shut the door with the button down?
Been thinking of upgrading and or getting a new brake booster and master cylinder.
I see Speedway has two universal kits.
I have disc/drum and I'm not sure what they mean by "bore". One is 1" bore the other 1 1/8 bore, how do I know which I would need?
They sell a direct fit with 11' booster for $350
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Speedway 1967-72 Chevy Truck 11 in. Power Brake Booster Conv. Kit, OE
This kit is as close to OEM as it gets. A single bail square bail master cylinder with the 11" massive stopping power brake booster not only will look great, but have you stopping on a dime. 1967-1972 GM Truck (C Series) Booster Conversion Kit 11" Single Diaphragm Power Brake Booster Powder...www.speedwaymotors.com
But 2 universal ones for half that price at around $180
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Single 7 Inch Brake Booster Master Cylinder Combo, 1 Inch Bore
Compact for installation under floor or on firewall of almost any vehicle. Booster measures only 7" in diameter. Cast iron master cylinder has a 1" bore and is suited for disc-disc or disc-drum combinations. Master cylinder features two 3/8"-24 inverted flare ports on each side (plugs are...www.speedwaymotors.com