CK5
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1970 Chevelle Malibu "400" Clone

Pulled, inspected, and regapped plugs. Looks a little fat, probably need to go back to the bigger idle air bleeds and hook up my wide bad to see how far off the primary metering/secondary metering is. Timing might be a bit too much by the heat line on the electrode but I am not going to change it much esp since these plugs are a picture of all running since the motor was installed.

plug.jpg
 
That plug looks great to me, what is telling you its rich?
I get the electrode timing color indicator, but am a bit confused about the color of the porcelain.
 
I agree with John, the porcelain is a little dark for power, I like it to be whiter and likely deeper into the plug, but I can't see that far, and the rim looks all black, but it also looks a little oily, which could skew the A/F reading. Also, if you don't take it out right after a WOT pass without driving it back to the pit area it's going to be skewed too, which John said it's pretty much all driving.

I can't tell from the pics, it looks like one of those grainy pics from the back of the Chiltons, ha ha

Zim, Steve Morris has an excellent technical channel for a lot of performance engine building stuff. Most of it would be way overkill for a typical street/strip engine, but it's still interesting. I feel like most books or tech videos I see now not very informative because I've seen or heard of the vast majority of it. And most of the stuff Steve has in his videos I have seen before, but sometimes he has a different twist, or one piece of additional information I haven't heard or thought of before, and I like that.

For reference, here is his vid on plug reading...

 
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I bought one of those dr look in your ear things from Pro systems long ago for plug reading but never have put in the c batteries I need. I am sure the engine uses oil so it is a bit of a problem. It has a ridge that would rip off your nail but it was what I had at the time. It runs good enough but is the reason I am building a 520.
 
The new engine is also the reason I am not spending lots of time on this old engine tuning. I would rather get the new one in and running then try and tune it for best result. This old one will go back to the core pile.
 
Well, only a few things have changed since October. Clearanced the block for the 4.375 stroke crank and 6.385 rods in November. It had been a 496 at one point so it was minor work to get the cap screw "stroker" rods to clear the bottom of the bores. Then it was a stand still till Dec when the cam and lifters came in, Thanks Heath. Finally yesterday the pistons showed up (16 week wait?). So hopefully if I get out of work at the normal time I will be able to start balancing the rotating assembly. Then maybe if I talk nice we will bore and hone the block with a torque plate tomorrow. Then measure deck height to know how much to deck it. The plan is 0 deck or slightly positive (the total height of the stroke, rod and piston compression height is +.0005 from 9.8). I haven't ordered head gaskets but will shoot for a deck clearance of .035 to .040. The compression should be very near 10.5 to 1. This is a little low for all out, which of course this engine isn't, but should be able to run on any commonly available fuel here even 87 if that is all I can find.

Stroker Clearance.jpg

pistons.jpg

Pistons2.jpg

Pistons3.jpg
 
Nope, maybe Slots, Torque Thrust Ds, Cragers SS, maybe even Keystones if I could find some super cheap in perfect condition. I want the day 2 look to be maintained.
 
Working on balancing after work. Pistons and rods were less than 1 gram difference over the entire set, so no grinding necessary. Started filling bobweights.

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