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1972 Buick Skylark

mrk5 said:
Nice! It looks very familiar. We had to wait 4 months or more to get the TA Performance intake. It's probably a better deal if you can score someone's take off factory 4bbl intake. I was pretty impressed with the peppiness of the 2bbl tho.
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That is a long wait. Is TA performance the only company that makes manifolds for the Buick 350? I was looking at their website the other day and you can spend A LOT of money there. Very nice stuff and they got everything for Buick performance. The 2 barrel 350 is pretty impressive for what it is.
 
Shawn said:
That is a long wait. Is TA performance the only company that makes manifolds for the Buick 350? I was looking at their website the other day and you can spend A LOT of money there. Very nice stuff and they got everything for Buick performance. The 2 barrel 350 is pretty impressive for what it is.
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Yes, that is correct.

Right now I'm super frustrated with the previous owner.

#1: 2 wheels have locking lug nuts and I don't have the key.

#2: The lug nuts are torqued tight as shit. I just tested one with my deflecting beam torque wrench and got to 120ft-lbs and still didn't break loose. These should be 80 ft-lbs max. Lucky he didn't break any studs.

The a-hole level torque means getting the wheel locks off without the key is going to be even more difficult. :mad2:
 
Have you checked into the sockets that are specifically designed for this purpose? I personally haven't ever tried them, but maybe they actually work??
 
Blue-point locking lug sockets work. They have a reverse twist to them that when you pound them on with a hammer and attempt to remove they "bite" into the lug and allow it to back the nut off the stud. Had to use them a lot at the dealer. Don't be afraid to beat the snot out of them either. The more they go on the better they bite.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Blue-point locking lug sockets work. They have a reverse twist to them that when you pound them on with a hammer and attempt to remove they "bite" into the lug and allow it to back the nut off the stud. Had to use them a lot at the dealer. Don't be afraid to beat the snot out of them either. The more they go on the better they bite.
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They work like a female version of a broken bolt remover.

I have split the lock lugnuts with an air chisel.
 
That big ass snap on air hammer will make short work of those.

Use caution, gentle trigger finger.
 
The "emergency lug nut removers" I could get locally are too small. I've got a bigger one coming tomorrow.

What I envision happening is that because he put them on so tight it'll be a damn chore getting the wheel lock out of the remover.

I was thinking about air chiseling them off like @Wes Harden mentioned. Another option would be welding a nut on them. Also watched a video of a guy cutting flats into the wheel lock to be able to use an end wrench on them.

Just unfortunate he torqued them on so tight it's gonna make removal more challenging.
 
I've had pretty good luck just pounding a slightly smaller socket then the od of the lock onto them and twist them off.
Had to fight a few, some came right off. Think I remember there was only one I ended up having to cut off.
 
Capt Ron said:
I've had pretty good luck just pounding a slightly smaller socket then the od of the lock onto them and twist them off.
Had to fight a few, some came right off. Think I remember there was only one I ended up having to cut off.
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I'm debating about trying that too. I have some crappy sockets I don't care much about.
 
When we had the tow yard in the late 70's, early 80's, I kept every socket I found in each car we ended up owning just for that reason. 8 pound sledge and an impact tool.
 
I was shocked when we bought my wife's car a couple years ago the dealership put wheel locks on. We were like " we didn't ask for this!" Who the hell steels factory base model wheels? At least they have us the regular lug nuts they replaced.
 
Wife’s new Yukon came with wheel locks on the fancy 22’s.

Then again…for what we paid for them I don’t mind the extra security.
 
I don't know who I'm more upset with, the PO or me! The wheel locks were only snug!!! As soon as I started hammer a socket on I was like " I think it just turned already..." sure enough, it came off by hand! The other wheel lock came off with a little effort on a pair of pliers! All that time and effort wasted tracking down 3 removers (2 were too small, 1 too big). :mad2:

Had to pull the "R" terminal wire since the points were removed and I noticed some funny business with the starter wiring.

The battery cable was practically touching the exhaust manifold. You see where it's a tad scorched.

20220522_140629.jpg

Maybe you have to have personally melted a battery cable on headers to appreciate the concept of keeping them routed away from that stuff.

That black cable in the pic above is bolted to the motor. Not sure where the cut end should be connected. Thinking the frame maybe.

The power distribution wires were running thru the engine mount bracket with no abrasion protection. Found out why when I pulled them out to put loom on them.

20220522_140540.jpg

Been "repaired" apparently. Gonna redo those with shrink tube and put some loom over them.
 
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