You know timing gears will never have that problem.
CK5
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LS with a carb? Will it bolt up to a TH350 trans.
No, but I've decided a really cool Z71 Offroad sticker would be the next best thing.4x4 yet?
It's kinda cool listening to the flow noise in the power steering pump and the transmission cooler lines.
I had those in my 75 K5. People would frequently tell me there was something wrong with the truck; usually they said I needed to check power steering fluid.
Another post I found on another forum:
Think it's interesting I've never heard of something like this and then there are other people that have similar issues more than just once.
That's what I am familiar with and it sounds like it.
That's why it's not 100% consistent, it sometimes doesn't hit the cover.
The lifter noise you can count on it.
On top of the engine ticking noise, I had noticed a clunk in the front end; especially going on and off the brakes turning right. Thought I might need to check all the fasteners since it had been several hundred miles since the frontend rebuild. Pulled the driver side tire off and found an entire set of shims laying on the the upper coil bucket. It would seem the alignment shop didn't torque down the nuts on the upper arm shaft after setting the shims.
Found that anything they should have set final torque on after alignment was loose. Hell the adjuster sleeve on the tie rod ends only gets 22ft-lbs on the bolts and they weren't even close. 3 of the 4 upper arm shaft nuts that hold the shims were not torqued down.
Of course it all started with my first ongoing irritation, the lug nuts were tightened all over the place. One was relatively easy to get off and another was so tight I thought I was going to break the 3/8" ratchet I was using to break them loose. They only need to be 65-90 ft-lbs. Anymore I redo the lug nut torque after I get a vehicle back from having the tires pulled off.
Found that anything they should have set final torque on after alignment was loose. Hell the adjuster sleeve on the tie rod ends only gets 22ft-lbs on the bolts and they weren't even close. 3 of the 4 upper arm shaft nuts that hold the shims were not torqued down.
Of course it all started with my first ongoing irritation, the lug nuts were tightened all over the place. One was relatively easy to get off and another was so tight I thought I was going to break the 3/8" ratchet I was using to break them loose. They only need to be 65-90 ft-lbs. Anymore I redo the lug nut torque after I get a vehicle back from having the tires pulled off.
I’m mostly always disappointed with someone else working on my stuff.
Bad enough if I make a mistake. But if I pay to get it done it shouldn’t have to be gone back over to check the work done!
Yep
That's why I don't let anyone work on my stuff.
Make sure you do a review or call them out on it.
When I did an alignment on my commercial trailer they said my hubs needed packed with grease and they did it without asking me.
They charged me $300 for it too, so the next morning I found one of the covers missing a couple of bolts and the ones still on backed out a few turns and grease all over my wheel.
I called them to complain and I said I had to fix it myself and they asked how long it took and I told them.
They sent me a check back for I think $100
As much as I or we would like to do everything ourselves somethings are unavoidable.
I've tried doing alignments myself and have not had good results. Aside from that, I don't even like having someone change oil for me.
Any luck figuring the noise out?
My kid was nice and bought me a stethoscope off the tool truck yesterday. I’ll poke around with it when the weather cooperates and I got some free time for it.
Thanks for the idea guys!
My kid was nice and bought me a stethoscope off the tool truck yesterday. I’ll poke around with it when the weather cooperates and I got some free time for it.
Thanks for the idea guys!
It's definitely the timing chain. I posted a while back but it probably got lost in the discussion. Noise is loudest with the stethoscope on the bottom of the timing cover. No noise when touching it around the top of the motor. The sound diminishes as I move away from the timing cover area.
You can also take the dist cap off and roll the crank back and forth by hand to see how much slop is in the chain.
@6872xtc all your questions about my homemade tool picture post in the PAD thread are about to be answered....
Been doing some weekend work on the C10. I don't remember if I mentioned before in this thread, but the business insurance company required an inspection by a certified mechanic. They found the right rear axle seal was leaking. I've had the parts for awhile so I decided it was time to get it done.
I hadn't noticed a signs of the leak on the tire or ground. This is what I found when I pulled the wheel off and then the drum:
Everything coated in gear oil. I doubt much stopping power was coming from this side. Plus the shoes are nearly gone. Hadn't planned on replacing the shoes, but luckily they are easily found at the local parts places. Putting the new shoes on, I remember how much I hate doing drum brakes - it's been a long time since I had to do them.
To pull the axle shaft, you have to drain the differential so you can get access to pull the cross shaft. While this is a 2wd truck, this is a handy process to know if you break a rear shaft on a 1/2 ton 4x4. This C10 has a 10 bolt rear axle.
You can see the pin/bolt that holds the cross shaft in at the top of the carrier. Took a 1/2" wrench if I remember correctly. Once the cross shaft is out, you can push the shaft in a little to get the C-clips out. You can see it falling out in the picture below:
I decided to replace the axle bearings while I was at it. I had the original tool part numbers from the shop manual for pulling the axle bearings and re-installing them. I found used versions on ebay and picked them up. I didn't get ALL the tools. I didn't get the official slide hammer or the handle for the bearing driver because they were too expensive.
The first problem is that I didn't have an adapter to put the bearing puller on my slide hammer. So I made an adapter with a 1/2-13 bolt welded to a piece of plate to fit the 2-jaw puller adapter.
The foot folds back to fit inside the bearing.
Then the foot flattens out to rest against the inside of the bearing.
Then you tighten the nut down putting the washer tight to the seal.
Use the slide hammer to full effect and out it all comes.
FWIW, this is what started happening to the bearing trying to use the 2-jaw puller - it started pulling the bearing cage apart.
For the bearing driver, I used a 3/4" NC bolt with a nut to tighten the driver against. Luckily I had a nut and bolt on hand. The nut is on there so it's driving the bolt against the driver face and not just the threads.
The "official" driver is nice because it holds the bearing perfectly.
The other nice thing about the Kent-Moore driver is that it puts the bearing at the perfect depth for the seal.
I also picked up the seal driver.
However the seal driver shattered.
I don't know if it had a pre-existing flaw, it was used after all, but it might have been because I didn't make sure the hit the end squarely.
On to the driver side. I found this when I pulled the drum off:
When I squeeze the dust boot on the wheel cylinder, fluid spurts out. So now I need a wheel cylinder.
That's where I left it for this weekend.
Been doing some weekend work on the C10. I don't remember if I mentioned before in this thread, but the business insurance company required an inspection by a certified mechanic. They found the right rear axle seal was leaking. I've had the parts for awhile so I decided it was time to get it done.
I hadn't noticed a signs of the leak on the tire or ground. This is what I found when I pulled the wheel off and then the drum:
Everything coated in gear oil. I doubt much stopping power was coming from this side. Plus the shoes are nearly gone. Hadn't planned on replacing the shoes, but luckily they are easily found at the local parts places. Putting the new shoes on, I remember how much I hate doing drum brakes - it's been a long time since I had to do them.
To pull the axle shaft, you have to drain the differential so you can get access to pull the cross shaft. While this is a 2wd truck, this is a handy process to know if you break a rear shaft on a 1/2 ton 4x4. This C10 has a 10 bolt rear axle.
You can see the pin/bolt that holds the cross shaft in at the top of the carrier. Took a 1/2" wrench if I remember correctly. Once the cross shaft is out, you can push the shaft in a little to get the C-clips out. You can see it falling out in the picture below:
I decided to replace the axle bearings while I was at it. I had the original tool part numbers from the shop manual for pulling the axle bearings and re-installing them. I found used versions on ebay and picked them up. I didn't get ALL the tools. I didn't get the official slide hammer or the handle for the bearing driver because they were too expensive.
The first problem is that I didn't have an adapter to put the bearing puller on my slide hammer. So I made an adapter with a 1/2-13 bolt welded to a piece of plate to fit the 2-jaw puller adapter.
The foot folds back to fit inside the bearing.
Then the foot flattens out to rest against the inside of the bearing.
Then you tighten the nut down putting the washer tight to the seal.
Use the slide hammer to full effect and out it all comes.
FWIW, this is what started happening to the bearing trying to use the 2-jaw puller - it started pulling the bearing cage apart.
For the bearing driver, I used a 3/4" NC bolt with a nut to tighten the driver against. Luckily I had a nut and bolt on hand. The nut is on there so it's driving the bolt against the driver face and not just the threads.
The "official" driver is nice because it holds the bearing perfectly.
The other nice thing about the Kent-Moore driver is that it puts the bearing at the perfect depth for the seal.
I also picked up the seal driver.
However the seal driver shattered.
I don't know if it had a pre-existing flaw, it was used after all, but it might have been because I didn't make sure the hit the end squarely.
On to the driver side. I found this when I pulled the drum off:
When I squeeze the dust boot on the wheel cylinder, fluid spurts out. So now I need a wheel cylinder.
That's where I left it for this weekend.
This is a plastic driver, I don't think you are supposed to hit it with a hammer, just with a soft rubber mallet, or even just push in holding the handle
Always interesting to see specialty tools in use. Nice write up.
