CK5
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Yea some cranes ive operated have had gear driven systems , and i understand that itd make a difference. I just didnt think youd hear it all that much with exhaust, and fans blowing air ect. When i replaced mine.. i didnt notice any change. My ears are quite shyt though, even at 30..
Almost all buttoned up on this project. Only picture I have is of oil pan bolts. I got one of the FelPro 1-piece oil pan gaskets. The new gasket is a lot thicker so it comes with new bolts. This truck still has the starter wiring and cable nicely captured with oil pan studs and I was concerned they wouldn't work with the new gasket. However I was in luck, as they are longer than the original bolts. In the picture you can see the new bolt that's 3/4" long with a stud next to it that must be around 5/8" and then an original bolt that is maybe 1/2".
I thought most of my time was going to be spent scraping old gasket material off the block. This seemed to be the worst baked on gasket I remember of any other oil pans I've pulled. I bought a couple of new scrapers. They worked quite well and the gasket material was cleaned off a lot quicker than I expected.
For the first pass on the bigger chunks:
Then the final cleaning I used this:
I did end up buying a new harmonic balancer. I tried the repair sleeve and it mushroomed when I was putting it on. Didn't feel like I was forcing it. I started thinking about how many miles would the sleeve go before it started getting a groove given how thin it is. So I just bought a Dorman balancer from the local parts store.
What took the longest was bolting the oil pan back in. There are 18 bolts and 1/3 of them are over the IFS crossmember so a real pain to reach. One of the biggest obstacles to fight is the transmission cooling lines. I'm also Navy Nuclear Program anal about torquing things to spec so I tightened the pan down in 3 increments in a staggered pattern. All told, it took me about 3 hours to get the pan in.
I could do it a little faster now that I know the right combination of extension and sockets to use to reach all the bolts.
Might have this project finished this evening or tomorrow. Hold up now is the new water pump doesn't come setup to work with the pre-75 power steering pump bracket. Gotta drill out the mounting hole for a thru-bolt. Of course I don't figure this out until it's installed in the truck.
I thought most of my time was going to be spent scraping old gasket material off the block. This seemed to be the worst baked on gasket I remember of any other oil pans I've pulled. I bought a couple of new scrapers. They worked quite well and the gasket material was cleaned off a lot quicker than I expected.
For the first pass on the bigger chunks:
Then the final cleaning I used this:
I did end up buying a new harmonic balancer. I tried the repair sleeve and it mushroomed when I was putting it on. Didn't feel like I was forcing it. I started thinking about how many miles would the sleeve go before it started getting a groove given how thin it is. So I just bought a Dorman balancer from the local parts store.
What took the longest was bolting the oil pan back in. There are 18 bolts and 1/3 of them are over the IFS crossmember so a real pain to reach. One of the biggest obstacles to fight is the transmission cooling lines. I'm also Navy Nuclear Program anal about torquing things to spec so I tightened the pan down in 3 increments in a staggered pattern. All told, it took me about 3 hours to get the pan in.
I could do it a little faster now that I know the right combination of extension and sockets to use to reach all the bolts.Might have this project finished this evening or tomorrow. Hold up now is the new water pump doesn't come setup to work with the pre-75 power steering pump bracket. Gotta drill out the mounting hole for a thru-bolt. Of course I don't figure this out until it's installed in the truck.
That's what I was thinking! Nothing can be easy.
I should have saved all the layers of grime I've scraped off everything I removed. It would have made quite the pile.
Fired up the truck after finishing up this project. Oil and coolant didn't gush out anywhere, so that's encouraging.
Shiny new parts: aluminum hi-flow water pump, chrome timing chain cover, and freshly painted balancer.
I have to have the shiny parts so that the hard work is more gratifying.
I didn't repaint the oil pan, tho. I thought it kinda had a neat patina look to it. It's just nice to have it clean and not covered in a thick layer of grime.
I spent some time having to modify the water pump for the power steering bracket. It comes threaded part way thru but I need it to be a smooth thru hole. I drilled it out with a 3/8" bit.
When I read about having to make this mod, one person had said they needed a spacer on the back side of this hole. I went with that and tried to put in on the back side. That was an exercise in frustration! I finally started looking at it closer and realized I needed the spacer on the FRONT.
Checked it with a straight edge and the pulleys line up. It makes more sense this way because when I was fighting the back side I was thinking why the hell did they make the pump with it short on the back and that it made more sense to design it for the spacer on the front. Glad I finally figured that out. Didn't get the best picture, but the belts line up fine.
There's another spacer that comes with the water pump that's needed for the alternator bracket.
Shiny new parts: aluminum hi-flow water pump, chrome timing chain cover, and freshly painted balancer.
I have to have the shiny parts so that the hard work is more gratifying.
I didn't repaint the oil pan, tho. I thought it kinda had a neat patina look to it. It's just nice to have it clean and not covered in a thick layer of grime.I spent some time having to modify the water pump for the power steering bracket. It comes threaded part way thru but I need it to be a smooth thru hole. I drilled it out with a 3/8" bit.
When I read about having to make this mod, one person had said they needed a spacer on the back side of this hole. I went with that and tried to put in on the back side. That was an exercise in frustration! I finally started looking at it closer and realized I needed the spacer on the FRONT.
Checked it with a straight edge and the pulleys line up. It makes more sense this way because when I was fighting the back side I was thinking why the hell did they make the pump with it short on the back and that it made more sense to design it for the spacer on the front. Glad I finally figured that out. Didn't get the best picture, but the belts line up fine.
There's another spacer that comes with the water pump that's needed for the alternator bracket.
Set timing this morning. Surprisingly even with all the mess the chain was in, the timing was still good. I decided I might try a little more advance. I had done this before with poor results, but I thought maybe it would better with the new timing chain.
Nope, this motor just really likes the 12 BTDC listed on the core support sticker.
I hadn't put a vacuum gauge on this motor yet, but it was a solid 16" at 650RPM. The sticker says idle should be 600 but I run 650 for when the A/C compressor kicks on a stop light. I expected to see the needle jumping around for any number of reasons, but I was happy to see it steady.
Used the vacuum to tweak the idle mixture too.
Nope, this motor just really likes the 12 BTDC listed on the core support sticker.
I hadn't put a vacuum gauge on this motor yet, but it was a solid 16" at 650RPM. The sticker says idle should be 600 but I run 650 for when the A/C compressor kicks on a stop light. I expected to see the needle jumping around for any number of reasons, but I was happy to see it steady.
Used the vacuum to tweak the idle mixture too.
Since the speedometer isn't accurate and I suck at finding places, I've been using a GPS. The problem is the windshield suction cup holder thingy gets in the way of the sun shade. I made a bracket to mount it on the dash.
Wife said she needed to use my pickup to pickup and order at Home Depot. It was 1,000lbs of brick.
Half ton truck doing half ton work!
I was just a little taken aback when she said they were picking up 300 bricks. After some quick maths I said, um that was over 1000lbs. She said she could tell it was loaded but didn't feel overloaded.
I'm a little curious what the load rating was on these. It does have the 5 leaf pack vs the standard 4 leaf. I think that's because the original owner hauled a camper in it.
This morning the C10 and I hauled a couple of park signs to Cheyenne to meet with the parks & rec lady from Gillette. Somehow our sign shop managed to get in with the City of Gillette making their park signs. We did 3 or 4 several years and ago and 2 more went up today. I enjoy projects like that.
The yellow/gold on the new grille bowtie I bought isn't holding up well.
Make a sticker
That's not good...that was one of those GM Authorized ones from Squarebody wasn't it?
Yes it is. I do drive mine to work virtually every day; maybe they last longer if the get less exposure.
Would be interesting to know how long the original emblems lasted...those are an expensive sticker
I know i gave Jesse a original 78 bow tie last year and it was in great shape! As well as the original 77 bow tie on my truck is. So they can last quite a long time.
