CK5
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1973 C10 "The Purple Truck"

Basic build
It's alive!


Had to give it some throttle to keep it running. Should have reset the throttle screw before starting. Ultimately I had to adjust the throttle screw in a fair bit.

Before starting, I did prime the oil system for quite a while. I basically ran the drill until I had oil coming out the push rods. Also rotated the engine intermittently during the priming. The instructions from ATK said to prime the oil until all fiction surfaces were oiled so I figured better safe than sorry.



Then took it for a 2 mile drive. This is the hardest part for me, getting used to a new setup. Exhaust and engine sound different so it's a matter of getting used to the new sounds mostly. And then just earning trust again.
This is the hardest part for me as well, best thing I did was on my DD tahoe, just jumped right in and daily drove it. Luckily I only had a small issue with a crappy ground, wrong exhaust doughnut and the weirdest one was the drive train developed a vibration and with it sitting a month the u joint went out.
 
This is the hardest part for me as well, best thing I did was on my DD tahoe, just jumped right in and daily drove it. Luckily I only had a small issue with a crappy ground, wrong exhaust doughnut and the weirdest one was the drive train developed a vibration and with it sitting a month the u joint went out.
Had to get vehicles switched around today so hopefully tomorrow I'll be daily driving it. No matter how careful I am, I'm always worried about melting something on the headers when I first get them installed.


Clean the factory air cleaner up. It looks much better than that cold air intake.

Have you ever see one that someone made into a dual snorkel? There it a punchout on both sides of the radiator support.

Martin
I had the taller factory filter air cleaner in my K5 so I know what you're talking about. If I'm going to run factory style I need to find a different plastic tube. The thing I hate most about this one it runs right over the oil fill. Although hopefully I won't need it as often with this motor.

One problem I have is running a factory snorkel to the driver side the AC compressor gets in the way. The air cleaner on there now has a custom base that raises it up higher and it still won't clear the compressor.
 
Like everyone thinks all of Nebraska is flat, most people choose to ignore that the Eastern half of Colorado exists......

Do a salad bowl base on your air cleaner, that might get it up higher.

Martin
 
I remember one of our high school football coaches moved here from Iowa. He was so shocked when he got to the Colorado state line and didn't see mountains, he had to pull over and get out to be sure. He said he was really disappointed it was 2 more hours of driving before he saw them.

Made the 25 mile drive to work today. Man this thing will get to 75mph in a hurry. This is the first time I've had dual exhaust with a crossover pipe; it really changes the exhaust note.

I did manage to melty some wires on the headers. Totally my fault. They aren't used any more, one went to the dumb idle solenoid anti-diesel thingy and the other was for the factory temp sender. I had just left them laying loose on the valve cover and the ends were laying on the header tube.

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I think I mentioned earlier, I put in a block heater. I had thought some about using the type that replaces one of the casting plugs, but then I came across the style that was an original GM option. I ordered a new model in that style.

It takes the engine forever to warm up in the winter even with the radiator blocked. Then when I was working on the engine swap and it was cold I kept thinking about how the really cold oil wasn't going to help with the break-in. I figured it was a good time to buy one so I could use it to warm up the block before I stared priming the oil system.

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Funny thing also happened when I took this picture. Look at the crank pulley and you'll see what I discovered. :rotfl:
 
We used that style block heater on my kids old Duramax. The factory one gave out, and that was a easy fix, worked really well too.
 
We used that style block heater on my kids old Duramax. The factory one gave out, and that was a easy fix, worked really well too.
That was part of my reasoning too, easy to replace/repair/remove whichever may be needed.

I used it this morning because it was 22°F and I didn't like the idea running the new engine with the oil that cold. I only had it plugged in an hour but the CTS in the intake read about 90°. I'm going to pick up a time clock so it can run for 2 hours.
 
Definitely put it on a timer so it doesn't kill your power bill. Make sure you get one rated to handle the amps it pulls.
 
I remember that lesson. We had a Super Duty and we learned the timer trick after paying the first month's electric bill. Amazing how much it adds to the power load.
 
I was rechecking header bolts and noticed something odd hanging out under the engine below the oil filter.

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Another view.

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The dust cover was falling off. Obviously the mods I made to clear the 1-piece rear main weren't enough. Below you see it was self clearancing.

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I was hearing a noise but it sounded like the speedometer did when I needed to lube the cable. Now I'm thinking I was hearing the dust cover rubbing.

Gonna have to figure out what I can do for the dust cover. Don't think I can buy one off the shelf because TH350's didn't come behind 1-piece rear mains. I probably need a new TH350 dust cover and a cover for a newer engine to compare the arch cutout needed to clear the oil pan.
 
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