That's definitely what I'll be doing for now.
CK5
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I had the same problem with the L29/Sm465 combo however I knew the cause immediately since I just put the cover on.
I have a couple factory tin covers for the 1 piece rear main seal TH350. $25 plus shipping, hardware included.
While we're at it, what do you have for air filter assemblies?
I have a rusty open element Edelbrock chrome job at the moment. I sold most of the extras at the last swap meet.
When I was putting the passenger valve cover on the old 350, the intake gasket was oddly in the way.
It was obviously bowed up in the middle. I wish I knew if the tears in the lower corners of the 2 inner intake ports happened due to removal or if they were there during engine operation. This could be the source of the whistling noise I'd hear at a specific RPM.
It was obviously bowed up in the middle. I wish I knew if the tears in the lower corners of the 2 inner intake ports happened due to removal or if they were there during engine operation. This could be the source of the whistling noise I'd hear at a specific RPM.
Look at the intake manifold. It might show the gaps at the tears.
It's already on the new engine. I'd need to put the open element air cleaner on the new engine to see if the noise was there. If it's gone, there's a good chance the gasket was the source of the whistle.
It could have been.
Got the engine out and on the stand. I want to roll it over and get a better look at the cylinders before I crate it. Also picture evidence too.
When I was getting the harness bundle up, I noticed this.
A wire got toasty. Gonna have to check old photos to see if this is new. I'm afraid it might be because I've fed wires thru there not long ago and I think I would have noticed this.
When I was getting the harness bundle up, I noticed this.
A wire got toasty. Gonna have to check old photos to see if this is new. I'm afraid it might be because I've fed wires thru there not long ago and I think I would have noticed this.
Looks like it started after the EFI. I haven't traced the wire yet.
At the top of the first photo was when I put the Street Demon carb on.
After the EFI, you can see the melty line start to appear.
I don't think it's related to the efi, because I'm 90% certain none of the wires are routed thru there. The other thing I got working in that same time frame was the A/C. Be interesting to see where the wire goes.
At the top of the first photo was when I put the Street Demon carb on.
After the EFI, you can see the melty line start to appear.
I don't think it's related to the efi, because I'm 90% certain none of the wires are routed thru there. The other thing I got working in that same time frame was the A/C. Be interesting to see where the wire goes.
Better off finding it now, than on the side of the road, on fire.
Check out if it feeds the power to the high blower relay.
Did I miss something?
Yea. Separate thread about a cricket in the engine.
If it has a SN or something identifying it, take a picture. Or put a punch mark on it somewhere, like the starter mounting surface. That way you will know if they sent your block back with a hone job or something stupid like that.
No, I do not trust any builders any longer.
No, I do not trust any builders any longer.
I can't remember if you said but are the ATK performance engines US built? I just did an ATK reman 5.4L that went well but I remember seeing a remanufactured in Mexico tag on it.
I guess that answers my original question. Bummer man, sorry to hear that Scott, always annoying when something doesn't go right, especially a whole engine. Just shows you how important the machining is and you have to trust them.
It sounds like you will recommend I don't start selling them...
It will be interesting to see how the process goes from here. Mistakes can happen, but how they are handled is a big deal. All things being equal the engine problem currently is on par with the ProFlo problem. We'll see how well this process goes from here compared to when I sent in the PF4 parts.
They are hecho engines. ATK does have 2 different divisions. One is the regular stock replacement rebuilds and the other is the performance division that my engine came from.
It was really difficult to get the camera to focus on the cylinder walls. The best method I came up with was to do a video so I could move the phone around until it focused. I recorded both sides of the motor. I didn't roll the crank, just looked at what was visible.
I'm not sure what is normal for what you'd expect to see on a cylinder wall, but it looked like more than 1 had what seems like excessive marks. It also looks to me like there is light rust staining on the walls. I'm not sure if the video picked that up.
