You can force it around the bend but it’s a Mf’er to do it. I ran those exact ones for 3 years with the boot laying directly on the header and all that happened was the black coating flaked off but the boot and wire were unaffected.
CK5
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Yeah I tried but just got irritated, so I cut them. It seems all manufacturers have that dumb metal ring. I will say they do work well. They could at least make them a hair wider.
The DEI ones that I picked up at O'Reilly's, slipped over 90* boots easily.
Those are the ones I use.
DEI sells ringless sleeves and are quit a bit more expensive on summit and their own website. $16 amazon for ones with the lame rings, compared to DEI $80 is too much for me. I'd rather cut them than spend $60+ more for ringless. To each their own I suppose but I'm sure they look better than all frayed like mine ... hahahaha
I find it more important to route them and secure them carefully. I have never used sleeves and never burnt a plug wire to the point of arcing it. If it's too close I reroute it and re-secure it so it can't contact the tube. One set of headers I did run the shorty spark plugs from Accell (angle plug SBC heads on headers not designed for it). But I didn't find that necessary our the truck headers.
I'd rather try to straighten all the noodles in spaghetti than argue with spark plug wire routing.
Yeah, I have the shorty accel plugs but, I could probably get by without them but for the $16 for the sleeves from amazon I put them on.for some piece of mind. My c10 I dont have them but the blazer with headers I run them.
I run long tubes on anything not my daily driver. Giving up too much without them. The boot angle can make a big difference too, sometimes you need 90, or 45 or straight. I really like the bendable MSD boots for big blocks, they start out straight but you can angle them up to 45 and they stay there. Or sometimes you just need to rotate the boot on the plug and have it come in from a different angle or from the top or bottom. One time I had to dent the tube, which I don't like to do, but it a dent or two doesn't really hurt anything really. If the tube is on the large side for the combo you can put more dents than a derby car and it may not matter depending on the engine. The higher performance the engine, the more it matters.
I just need to be more careful with that particular wire. I do remember the wires not routing quite as nicely as they did the first time and I got irritated and stopped messing with them. So I need to take my time and pay closer attention next time.
Zip tie assistance to hold the plug wires away from harm. And the lone red replacement.
Poor plug wire.
I'd like to make a couple wire looks with magnetic bases. They would be handy for holding the wires over the top of the valve covers.
Poor plug wire.
I'd like to make a couple wire looks with magnetic bases. They would be handy for holding the wires over the top of the valve covers.
I have zip ties as well for the c10 to keep the wires away from the exhaust.
Coil on plug doesn’t have that problem…
Have you considered some wire separators? I got these ones from moroso, they actually came with my wire kit.
Have the red ones on my blazer... they're nice
Those wouldn't be quite as useful with his long style A/C compressor, I am betting.
Make sure to replace it with a similar ohm wire to prevent spark issues when you can. The original wires are 50 ohms/ft, many are 900. MSD has told me that higher ohms on one wire, even if it is not too high that it shouldn't work, can cause issues.
I think these are the magnetic zip tie mounts I saw on Roadkill Garage. They might work well on steel valve covers. These are the 15 lb ones.
I did see that I can get single super conductor wires and I'm planning to do that. At that time I'll spend a little more time getting the wires squared away.
Yes @6872xtc is right. I do run those looms on the passenger side. I have them on the crew cab too. What I really like to do is use those looms and cut to length plug wires so they can be routed nicely.
I've decided I'm going to convert this engine to a serpentine belt setup so I can run a less obtrusive compressor.
I use the heck out of those things for routing wire harness. I'd like to make something that has magnets like those connected to looms similar to what @cheavyk10 mentioned.
I mostly finished up my brake project. I spread it out over a couple of months due to available funds and time.
First thing I did was replace the master cylinder and booster. I was a little worried about it fitting with the gigantic AC compressor.
Luckily It cleared okay.
The lines were swapped on the new master, but it wasn't an issue to bend them into place.
I did have to shorten up the rod that connects the pedal to the booster. It was about 1/2" to 3/4" too long. You can see the piece I cut off laying on the table below.
The next thing I did was replace the calipers. I had decided I wanted to spend a little extra money and get an improvement in braking by opting for the Wilwood 2-piston calipers. For some reason Speedway Motors had them listed for more than $50 cheaper than anywhere else, even their own website. That did mean I had to go for red; my preference would have been the gray version.
I saved the new pads that came with the calipers and re-used the old pads until I put new rotors on.
Today I installed the new rotors along with the new pads and bearings.
My preference would be to do slotted only, but the only option I could find for those were about twice as much as these Baer zinc rotors.
Everything seems to be working really well during the bed-in. I thought I had the perfect road selected that wouldn't have much traffic. I was mistaken. Plenty of people probably wandered what the hell my problem was.
One thing I'm not happy about is my wheels. These are new Cragars I bought 3 or 4 years ago. They are not holding up well.
You can see there the powder coat is starting to pop off.
First thing I did was replace the master cylinder and booster. I was a little worried about it fitting with the gigantic AC compressor.
Luckily It cleared okay.
The lines were swapped on the new master, but it wasn't an issue to bend them into place.
I did have to shorten up the rod that connects the pedal to the booster. It was about 1/2" to 3/4" too long. You can see the piece I cut off laying on the table below.
The next thing I did was replace the calipers. I had decided I wanted to spend a little extra money and get an improvement in braking by opting for the Wilwood 2-piston calipers. For some reason Speedway Motors had them listed for more than $50 cheaper than anywhere else, even their own website. That did mean I had to go for red; my preference would have been the gray version.
I saved the new pads that came with the calipers and re-used the old pads until I put new rotors on.
Today I installed the new rotors along with the new pads and bearings.
My preference would be to do slotted only, but the only option I could find for those were about twice as much as these Baer zinc rotors.
Everything seems to be working really well during the bed-in. I thought I had the perfect road selected that wouldn't have much traffic. I was mistaken. Plenty of people probably wandered what the hell my problem was.
One thing I'm not happy about is my wheels. These are new Cragars I bought 3 or 4 years ago. They are not holding up well.
You can see there the powder coat is starting to pop off.
