CK5
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1973 K10 Build

Wow, that's a lot of money. Seems you would be better off hitting up a junk yard.

Martin
 
Junkyard is your best bet. But, hoosiers like to just cut the hoses to get the parts they need. So, gotta check often and take it as soon as it hits the yard.
 
its my understanding that the unit form anouther truck will not
be a bolt on if your truck comes with vac assit.
 
its my understanding that the unit form anouther truck will not
be a bolt on if your truck comes with vac assit.

To transplant factory hydroboost into a vacuum truck, you will need (at least):


  • the hydroboost unit itself
  • the master cylinder (they're different, and plumbed different, so you may have to switch the brake lines around)
  • the three hoses from the hydroboost to the PS pump (which must match your PS box, i.e. O-ring for '81-up or the other fitting for 73-80)
  • the PS reservoir with two return fittings
  • the brake lever assembly (this was true for my '74. Newer trucks may have both holes drilled, but the hydroboost lever connects to a different place than the vacuum)

I've had an immense amount of trouble with my conversion, but that may be my fault, hard to say. I wouldn't leap into it nor would I say it's an easy weekend project.

-- A
 
IMG-20130325-00119_zps9b6f85c4.jpg


Got the 37's mounted, no trimming yet and everything *just* clears with the suspension neutral.

Those are some HEAVY mother's!
 
Big update for me today (unfortunately not many pictures..) but I rebuilt a carb for the first time!! Was a little daunting at first but once I got started I was jamming away in no time. Got it off the truck, cleaned, rebuilt, and back on with the truck running in ~3.5 hours including a trip to the store for a wider screwdriver for the needle seats.

First time I've been running a Carter AFB in my life but something tells me the metering rods should BOTH be straight...

Oceanside-Escondido-20130406-00156_zpsd2c0dd08.jpg


Found that while disassembling the carb, not surprised based on the rest of the truck!

Still have some tuning to do but the truck starts and runs pretty well compared to before. Will get on it tomorrow and see how tight we can tune this lil' guy up.
 
Ha! Yea, they should both be straight! Crazy.

Now that it's daylight and I have a carb with TWO functioning metering rods - I'm starting to get backfiring under load, I.e. climbing a hill at 2k rpm, etc.

Timing, carb too rich, or? If it's timing, do I need to advance or retard it. Currently have it set at 18 deg of static advance...
 
Now that it's daylight and I have a carb with TWO functioning metering rods - I'm starting to get backfiring under load, I.e. climbing a hill at 2k rpm, etc.

Timing, carb too rich, or? If it's timing, do I need to advance or retard it. Currently have it set at 18 deg of static advance...

Yup too much timing for a factory small block. You want to be more around 8-10 initial and 34-36 total.
 
Yup too much timing for a factory small block. You want to be more around 8-10 initial and 34-36 total.

That's always what I've thought but the challenge is not knowing what the PO put in the block. When I first got the truck initial was set to 30+! The engine is defo cammed ( no known specs of course). Still try going down to 8-10?
 
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