CK5
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1973 K10 : Chloe

1973 K10 offroad build
Ok, throttle cable and pedal install completed. The !@#$ing cheverolet engineers in 73 obviously were thinking they needed to save money and use self tappers to hold the gas-pedal assembly to the firewall. Well, those stripped out the second time I tightened them up. So, I ended up drilling the holes to .250 and installing bolts washers and nylocs. That sucked, and required my son to tighten the bolts while I held the nuts, since there is "so much room" between the firewall and the engine. They never had the 8.1 in mind when they built the squarebody. But that's done, and the moving parts out on the throttle body end are now held together with high tinsel pins and cotter keys, as oppossed to the crummy bolts I had laying around. It looks good too.

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Ok, throttle cable and pedal install completed. The !@#$ing cheverolet engineers in 73 obviously were thinking they needed to save money and use self tappers to hold the gas-pedal assembly to the firewall. Well, those stripped out the second time I tightened them up. So, I ended up drilling the holes to .250 and installing bolts washers and nylocs. That sucked, and required my son to tighten the bolts while I held the nuts, since there is "so much room" between the firewall and the engine. They never had the 8.1 in mind when they built the squarebody. But that's done, and the moving parts out on the throttle body end are now held together with high tinsel pins and cotter keys, as oppossed to the crummy bolts I had laying around. It looks good too.

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That's why I got my nutsert kit.
Make an instant nut on sheetmetal or fiberglass
 
Installed the old school oil tube for the oil pressure gauge.
Pulled the intake to check and make sure the oil pump drive was engaged properly, it was.
The original 8.1 oil pressure sensor, turns out it was rusted on the inside. I broke it getting it off the engine block. It would have never worked. Plus now I have a nice new Autometer gauge, that should read accurately.

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8.1 litre has very few vacuum accessories. I needed one for the brake vacuum booster and another for the T400 trans shift modulator. After $50 worth of good brass and stainless fittings and 3/8ths and 1/4 inch fuel hose, and small hose clamps. I got it all together, routed as to not get burned or melted or pinched. minor PITA, but, had to happen. Getting closer

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Pulled the AC box off the truck. It has been FUBAR'd. The "Previous Owner" obviously didn't know what he was doing in here.
I'm going to convert this entire box into manual push-pull cables to operate it. No more vacuum plungers.
Plan is to have fully functional AC, with no vacuum plungers to go bad.

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As some of you may or probably don't remember. I bought this BADLAND winch used of the one social media sites selling area, for a screaming deal $200
It was missing a couple of small items, one of which was a switch to operate the winch with
Well, I finally broke down and bought a wired remote switch for it to see if it worked.
After I disassembled the winch last year to verify all was well inside, added a bunch of grease, because who doesn't like lube?
Then proceeded with the install on my DIY4X A-BOMB winch mount front frame.
The way I went about mounting makes it very time consuming to get the winch back off the frame. Did that on purpose to discourage theft.
Anyway, was very happy to see the winch function as advertised when I applied power and used the new wired switch

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Had to do a bit of fiberglass repair on the AC box. The lower area where the blower motor mounts is broken out. If I had to guess, someone was removing the blower motor, and failed to remove. The lowest screw holding it to the housing. Then prying it off.
It's repaired now.

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Got a little done today. Still trying figure how to attach, and make functional the gen 1 cables. Got the new heater core installed in the box and cleaned all schmoo out of the inside of the box. Then new weatherstripping in all correct places.

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First pic, I finally got the cover
"made" for the ECM/engine electrical distribution box.
It consists of the bottom 10 inches of new 19 gallon square rubber garbage can, I cut a few pieces out of it to allow cables and wires to pass through. Fits snuggly, hood closes within 1/8 of an inch of it. Doesn't move and protects all the electrical business under it from the elements. Plus, it doesn't look bad either.
2nd pic is a new 4 row aluminum radiator. Not shown is the new AC condenser to go with it.
3rd pic is a spiffy new 8"double ended, 2.5"diameter Hydraulic ram, with a new matching Charlene valve
rated at 12 CI, load reactive, 2.75 rotations side to side

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Did a little something tonight while wifey pulled weeds in her flowerbeds. I had to call her over twice to run the 3/8ths impact while I balanced the condenser in just the right spot.
It's bolted in on the top side. I need to devise a plan for securing the bottom side, while not interfering with radiator's allotted space.
But, it's in

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Finally got the cable installed to actuate the fresh air door which is located in the right hand side of the cab outside where the wiper mechanism is.

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Finished the AC condenser install, then started on the Radiator install.
This Aluminum radiator is slightly different sized than original radiators.
Hopefully, I can finish it up tomorrow.

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So glad I bought the small parts kit plus screws for grill and headlights. You don't realize how much of that stuff goes missing when it sits around in a can or wrapped in a rag awaiting reinstall
I'm missing a few pieces, but, what I have I'm installing.
Starting to look like a truck again

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