I grabbed it off Amazon, I can find the link if you like. If I did it again, I might use a slightly smaller one...
CK5
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Was working on a 14bolt with factory discs, but changed to another one that I will convert over to disc, don't ask, it's a long story...but parts are ordered, I just need to clean up the hubs, repack the bearings, get my springs and put things back together...looks like someone did some customization.
Cut off the perches, got new ones around here somewhere...
The scrap metal guy will be happy, those things are ridiculously heavy...
I love my wife! I was working on the 14bolt got it almost all the way put back together when my wife started talking shit for me being cheap. I was going to reuse the wheel bearings....long story short, I took everything back apart, pounded out the races and put in new bearings.
Obviously she was right...I wasn't trying to be fancy with the orange paint, it just happens to be the only engine enamel I had around and I'm too cheap to go buy new paint when I've already got a can just sitting there.
I will stay out of the religious debate about grease or no grease on 14bolt wheel bearings, but will say the $14 I spent at harbor freight for a bearing driver set was the best money I ever spent.
One step forward, one step back. Im not sure how I didn't notice this but this is why I am selling the shock brace, won't be reusing this section. I cleaned out the cracks and welded them up but am thinking of adding a fishplate
It's hard to tell from the original pics, but the cracks, not surpringly, go almost all the way around. I was thinking or using 1/4 plate here and on the bottom. The blue is where the frame is indented for the shock. I'll add a Rosetta weld on each side, probably 2". Any suggestions welcome
Ok, I'm not good and updating threads and taking pictures, but here you go. Finished the back half, rebuild and trimmed 14ff with disc brakes, new springs, shackle flip, fixed the frame cracks and figured out my shock mounts. I need to do a bit more welding for the shock tabs on the axle side then run my brake lines but after that I should be done in the back.
I took the time to wire brush and paint the frame, used a quart of rust bullet I had lying around top coated it with Rust-Oleum hamred finish. Cleaned up the inner fender wells too while I was at it. All in all, pretty happy.
I took the time to wire brush and paint the frame, used a quart of rust bullet I had lying around top coated it with Rust-Oleum hamred finish. Cleaned up the inner fender wells too while I was at it. All in all, pretty happy.
I didn't take a lot of pictures...but you get the gist of it.
I thought I would just bang out the front, but as with most things, one thing let to another. First I replaced the kingpin, which is a PITA, I soaked it for a few days then still had to use heat and the big impact. The hex itself is 7/8 with a 3/4" drive. Then of course one of the lower kingpins was bad...and the wheel bearings were shot
Got all that sorted out and then of course realized the u-joints were frozen...which I used to replace with the socket method, but thought I'd try the brick method which is literally 100x faster!
While I was waiting for parts I added some Ford shock towers, cleaned up the frame and painted it. I used Chassis Saver this time, wow, that stuff is like molasses.
Got the new crossover arms and kingpin eliminator installed and shipped off the steering box to be rebuilt and tapped.
Got all that sorted out and then of course realized the u-joints were frozen...which I used to replace with the socket method, but thought I'd try the brick method which is literally 100x faster!
While I was waiting for parts I added some Ford shock towers, cleaned up the frame and painted it. I used Chassis Saver this time, wow, that stuff is like molasses.
Got the new crossover arms and kingpin eliminator installed and shipped off the steering box to be rebuilt and tapped.
Now I am waiting for front spring bushings and then I should be back in business....
The thing that is kicking my butt right now is the selectable hub, which I believe is the stock one that has a stupid spring loaded mechanism...good news is I can get the axles to lock, bad news is I can't get them to unlock. I've spent more time messing with this than it took me to replace all the front axle bearings.
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I suck at keeping threads current...pushed the axle forward an inch so of course the draglink and tie rod are occupying the same space. I tried a misaligned TRE, but in the end grabbed some some wfo arms to run the Tre behind the axle.
Also did some small things like running the ps cooler and fixing the door striker...the little things take time, had to replace the ps pump as it was shot, drilled it out to support just and converted everything to AN-6. I would have made more progress but had to work on the other truck for Sierra trek and then of course fix it after Fordyce
Also replaced the rag joint with a borgenson going and made some new lines...slowly, ever so slowly
It’s hard to tell in the pick, have you installed the WFO arms?
I tried a set like that (also hoping to go behind the axle) but there was no way for them to work - the tie rod was too close to the oil pan (7” lift) and the leaf springs were directly in the path of the tie rod to get to the arms.
I tried a set like that (also hoping to go behind the axle) but there was no way for them to work - the tie rod was too close to the oil pan (7” lift) and the leaf springs were directly in the path of the tie rod to get to the arms.
I don't have them on yet, ill try this week. Worse case scenario if they don't clear the oil pan I'll have to wait until I finish the 6.0 swap and see if I can move the engine a little with new mounts and/or use a different oil pan.
