1976-78 Eldorado Calipers

[skidog1us]

I've been searching for a reasonable source for these to complete my 14 Bolt disc conversion. Really desire to have the e-brake capability. Any of my K-5 brothers found a good source for these?

Sean

 

[dfl701]

Have you tried a junkyard? Or you can just go to the parts store and pick some up

 

[4X4HIGH]

TSM manufacturing ( http://tsmmfg.com/3121.htm) has someone that makes NEW calipers for them for that application. The last i looked they were 320.00/pair. If you go to buy a reman caliper only one side is available these days (can't remember which side).

 

[K5dreamer]

dunno what kinda hurry youre in, but im currently working on a better alternative. I should have a thread posted up next week, wednsday maybe, probably thursday or friday.

Im sourcing the rear disk brakes from a 2000 model year GMC Sierra 2500, with the 8 lug 14bsf rear.

So far, it looks like it should work, with only a custom adaptor made for each side. brakes are way beefier than the caddy calipers, with the GMC units being large dual piston units. and the parking brake is a drum in hat style with two large brake shoes inside a drum.

with quite a few guys on here saying they have been less than impressed with the holding force of the caddy calipers, i ruled those out early on in the game.

So like i said, i should have a thread posted up. Im going to be doing detailed mechanical drawings of the different axles, and parts, scanning them at work into PDF files that i can post here. and taking pictures to show how i plan on putting everything together.

Ill probably also be able to design the adaptors i need, and post em up here and maybe someone with a machine shop can make them for me.

 

[blazin_blazer]

that sounds like a good idea, are you using the complete 2000 14bsf or just the brake parts...i'd like to see this when you figure it all out. i'd like to do this on my k5 w/3/4tons. i think on my k10 w/1tons i am going to go w/the parking brake on the rear of the t-case.

 

[bp71k5]

If you use the caddycalipers, you must hook up the ebrake and actually use it a lot to keep the calipers adjusted or they don't hold as well. Mine lock up my 35's on dry pavement, but the ebrake isn't adjusted as tight as it needs to be.

 

[skidog1us]

I'm am interested in a good long term alternative...only challenge is that I have already purchased, finished and painted the Diy4x brackets (which are very stout), would hate to waste them, though the best in the long run is my priority...please keep us all informed on your progress.

Thank you for sharing...I can wait.

Sean

 

[skidog1us]

Thanks Derek...obviously, yes, to your question...my question is aimed at a better than just barely good enough solution. I have read many of the older threads on this topic and I'm confident that there are many in this community that may have found or designed an even better solution. Thus my question.

Later.

Sean

 

[Big Blzn]

Thanks Derek...obviously, yes, to your question...my question is aimed at a better than just barely good enough solution. I have read many of the older threads on this topic and I'm confident that there are many in this community that may have found or designed an even better solution. Thus my question.

Later.

Sean

I'll second what Sean is saying but here is reality or at least what happen a lot it seems.

People complain about the rear caddys not holding very well. If they are used regularly they should stay in adjustment well enough to hold a truck on a decent incline.

Now, here is what I experience. Most of the trucks I have seen or heard of the drum ebrake only holds the rig in an incline adequately at best. The drums on my old 12 bolt would hold OK if I was parked up hill but was about useless if I was parked down hill. Some of this has to do with me not properly adjusting the star wheel and not checking the drums too often, my fault. But I suspect this is a common occurance amoung us all. But when we swap to disks we think the ebreaks on the rear should hold like a motherfocker. In a perfect world they should. So, my opinion is that if the caddys hold a bit better than what the orginal drums hold you should be fine and not worry too much about the caddy application. Just my rambling.

 

[K5dreamer]

that sounds like a good idea, are you using the complete 2000 14bsf or just the brake parts....

just the brakes... Im taking the DRW hubs and drums off my D70HD and installing the 14bff SRW hubs from a G-van axle, and the rotors/calipers/parking brake from the 2000 GMC truck.

Removing the brake parts are pretty strait forward, hardest part is getting the axles out.... darned retaining pin in the center pin of the differential broke. i ordered an easy out kit at the suggestion of one of the guys here and will be trying to get the pin out on wednsday, so i can get the axles out, so i can pull the parking brake assemblies off, and put together some measurements and diagrams.

as stated the only rub is the difference in mounting flanges on the axles. the drum brake flanges are significantly smaller than disk brake flanges, so ill have to figure out how to mate the disk brake backing plates to the D70HD mounting flanges. AKA - an adapter.

 

[bp71k5]

one other thing to add to Hobys comments are that I noticed my ebrake doesnt work as well after getting bigger tires. I had the same basic brakes with the 12b and 33's and th ebrake worked much better. I suspect the eldorado setup just doesnt have much margin once you get up to 35"+ tires.

 

[K5dreamer]

one other thing to add to Hobys comments are that I noticed my ebrake doesnt work as well after getting bigger tires. I had the same basic brakes with the 12b and 33's and th ebrake worked much better. I suspect the eldorado setup just doesnt have much margin once you get up to 35"+ tires.

very good point, i hadnt stated that but it was in the back of my mind. and im planning on running 38's and maybe 42's at some point.

there is a slight weight and leverage issue going from a 26in tall tire to even a 38in tire.

 

[tRustyK5]

Line Lock...

Be honest, who among us use the parking brake regularly? Have an automatic, it just gets left in park. Have a manual, it gets left in gear. My only use for any sort of a park brake is on the trail, and for that Line Lock is much more capable than any mechanical parking brake.

Rene

 

[4X4HIGH]

just the brakes... Im taking the DRW hubs and drums off my D70HD and installing the 14bff SRW hubs from a G-van axle, and the rotors/calipers/parking brake from the 2000 GMC truck.

Removing the brake parts are pretty strait forward, hardest part is getting the axles out.... darned retaining pin in the center pin of the differential broke. i ordered an easy out kit at the suggestion of one of the guys here and will be trying to get the pin out on wednsday, so i can get the axles out, so i can pull the parking brake assemblies off, and put together some measurements and diagrams.

as stated the only rub is the difference in mounting flanges on the axles. the drum brake flanges are significantly smaller than disk brake flanges, so ill have to figure out how to mate the disk brake backing plates to the D70HD mounting flanges. AKA - an adapter.

It's doubtful you'll be able to use a SF brake set-up on a FF axle. Think about it, a SF axle uses a slide off rotor and that wont fit over a FF wheel hub. This has been tried by a member on here a while back with no success.

 

[K5dreamer]

actually, up until my parking brake broke in the truck, i used it whenever i park. same with the jetta. only reason i havent fixed it, was i didnt see the point as im swapping in the 1 tons, and the truck is currently automagic. i wouldnt even consider driving a manual transmission vehicle without a parking brake.

my main objection to the line lock is it functions on the hydraulic lines, to me the whole point of the emergency brake is to have a way to stop the vehicle, or at least hold the vehicle in place if the hydraulic brakes fail for some reason. I like having the cable operated backup plan. But totally agree that the hydraulic line-loc would hold much stronger than the cable system.

 

[skidog1us]

Hey bp71k5, K5dreamer & tRustyK5...

All points made do have merit, so I won't argue...I do find that I use my exisiting and lame 10 bolt drum e-brake whenever I park on an incline of any kind. Without doing so I find that shifting from park to drive or reverse is difficult and results in a sudden load or clunk on my drive train...may not actually be a problem...but since I am anal about the operation of my machines/equipment i'd prefer a good e-brake...also good to know I have the back up if needed.

My original question is if there is a better solution than using a 1970's front caliper without e-brake or sticking with a 1976-78 Eldorado...maybe I should have asked if a more current disc brake with e-brake capability will work in the mounting holes in the brackets provided by ORD, Diy4X and others...I'm not familiar with the mounting dimensions or thead sizes of more recent model calipers with e-brake capabilities.

Any ideas or knowledge is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Sean

 

[bp71k5]

Those brackets only fit the one caliper.

 

[K5dreamer]

It's doubtful you'll be able to use a SF brake set-up on a FF axle. Think about it, a SF axle uses a slide off rotor and that wont fit over a FF wheel hub. This has been tried by a member on here a while back with no success.

already test fit the rotor on the FF hub. fit just fine. The only problem was the... thickness... depth... whatever you wanna call it, of the hub, filled up the drum of the rotor so the parking brake shoes only engaged halfway. they couldnt fit all the way into the drum. The solution im thinking of to this problem is to use 4in long wheel bolts with a 1.46875in shoulder to "bolt" the rotor to the back side of the hub, like the old style drums were. This should make mounting the remainder of the brake components (backing plate, parking brake, caliper mounting bracket) just a matter of an adapter to properly space the assembly from the mounting flange so everything lines up.

Like i said, i havent actually put together my drawings or very precice measurements, but i did spend several hours at the junkyard test fitting and eyeballing stuff, and im confident enough that it will work that im buying all the parts. But im also open to the idea that it might not work due to some unforseen obstical, but for now, i think theres a good shot. which is why i also said to wait till i get all my info and put together my drawings and have something more solid to report.

i cant really do a search because im at work, but dont suppose you remember who it was that tried this before do you?

 

[odin]

Line Lock...

Be honest, who among us use the parking brake regularly? Have an automatic, it just gets left in park. Have a manual, it gets left in gear. My only use for any sort of a park brake is on the trail, and for that Line Lock is much more capable than any mechanical parking brake.

Rene

Agreed.
I think you guys are gonna be less than impressed with the 2000 e-brake in hat retrofit.
Have you tested the e brake on one of those trucks? Even a stock one?

 

[K5dreamer]

yup... used to work on em.