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1977 Chevy C10 shortbed resurection/restomod/ratrod

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Yeah mine was mostly sitting for 9 yrs plus a couple before I bought it. Im still working on all the hoses and fluids and such that need to be changed out. At least you are bringing it back to life instead of crushing it for scrap like alot of vehicles like that.
 
This is the 2wd version of my truck. Paint is perfect in all the same spots.
 
Often the bushings in upper & lower control arms look all cracked and dried up,but its not that often they'll actually deteriorate enough to make any noticeable issues with steering or alignment..

You might as well find a 4x4 rolling chassis to roll under it,if your going to do all that work replacing bushings..:)..
 
I spent the last couple days putting a few new parts on the truck. Distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and a new battery cable. I tossed a used battery out of the Vette into the truck and it turned over freely. The old spark plugs were heavily fouled with oil so I know this motor was burning oil before it was parked.

Now I need to drop the fuel tank and check what is going on inside of there.

I am also searching for a new carb. I know this motor is not going to last long term and the next motor is planned to be a 350-400 hp small block. I want to be sure if I spend money on a carb now it will work with the current motor and the future planned motor. Any suggestions?

motor.jpg
 
Depending on use if you have a good qjet stick with it. They're run on almost anything, be prepared to tune it though. A Holley is much easier to tune and can be made to work decent offroad. But ultimately if it was me I'd buy the low end fitech system..
 
The truck currently has an oddball Holley that would cost $80 for a rebuild kit. I'd rather put that cash towards a new one. I wasn't thinking EFI at this point, but I didn't know they were down to $795 for a complete kit now... This is very tempting but I would be into it over $1000 by the time I add the fuel pump and filter kit.

A $300 carb is looking better for now.
 
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I've had good luck with salvage yard or swap meet carbs priced well under 50 bucks--some of the best ones I got were only 5 to 15 bucks and considered "cores",but ran great after a carb kit was installed and a good cleaning..most were replaced by previous owners to install a aluminum intake and a Holley..(and probably regretted it later !)..

Nowadays swap meets,craigslist or e-bay are better sources for carbs,as most of the vehicles old enough to have a carb are either long gone or sat way too long for them to be much good..
 
That is funny that you lock it while you work on it.
 
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I locked it because I was done for the day and heading in. My wife wanted to hear it run when I told her about it so we went back out.
 
But, Sunday I went back out and found I had left a vacuum line loose for the distributor. With that connected it started on its own without pouring gas in the carb. I then hooked up the radiator, added water, and added 4 quarts to the transmission (TH350). I was able to drive it around the block after that. I still need to rebuild or replace the carb as the choke is non-functional and it likes to die just off idle.
 
After driving around the block, it cut out and died on me. Turns out the accel pump was sticking on the carb. Removing the air horn destroyed the gasket so I had to order another $60 carb kit.
 
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