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1977 K10 Build Thread

C

chevyridinhigh79

1/2 ton status
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
Posts
1,074
Reaction score
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Location
Steel City, PA
Ive been here since December of 2006 and I never started a build thread.. so I guess its time. I picked up my K10 earlier this year (around april) off of craigslist. In short I over payed for a piece of crap with a bunch of extra parts that im probably not going to use anyway. I found a set of 1 tons on ebay and put in my bid and hoped for the best. The axles were completely rebuilt which brings me up to my next two ventures, the suspension and engine! As it sits now its got a 4" block lift and a 3" body lift (2wd cab). I have a complete 6" superlift all spring lift that is going on soon and im looking at picking up a built 355 from a 1974 Pontiac Ventura that runs high 11's in the quarter. oh and by the way its got a 305 H.O. out of an 1985 monte ss, sm465, 205, D60, 14BFF, and 33's.

1977 Chevy Cheyenne.JPG

1977 Chevy Cheyenne 2.JPG

1977 Chevy Cheyenne 3.JPG

1977 Chevy Cheyenne 4.JPG
 
Nice truck, i wish i had your axles. I am searching for a donor vehicle now for axles for my truck. I cant decide if i want to go to a 35" tire or not, looking at your pics will help me decide, thanks.
 
i just swapped the axles, the lift was already on it when i bought it. the ubolts i got with the axles were that style and i was pressed for time to get it together and off the previous owners farm. since i don't have a garage or a driveway im limited to what i can do in my backyard. the third pic in the second set is the bottom of my backyard, all the other pics were taken at the previous owners farm.
 
if i run a 6" lift will i have to get a lengthened front drive shaft? also has anyone ever ran kerts shock inboarding kit? ive got aftermarket shock mounts on my rear axle and i don't want to cut them off and put stock ones on because these are way more heavy duty but i need something to mount the top of the shocks to because the original top mounts will not work
 
for a front shaft all you need to do is find a longer one if you need it. there are many lengths out there that will bolt right in from other chevy's with different tranny and t-case combinations.
 
i hope mine will be alright. oh and i didn't forget about the drive shaft and such. i just don't have a truck to come get it in. i have two and neither of them are running. im trying to get the K10 driveable and inspected so i can use it
 
Subscribed for a fellow 305 H.O :waytogo:

How do you like the engine? Decent power?
 
its alright, when it runs! it was supposedly "built" and was dropped into the truck after 2 350's were blown up. if im going downhill and im letting it idle or i m slowing down from running about 15 or higher it pops, coughs, backfires, sputters, and shoots sparks out of the passenger side manifold. i was told 305's are famous for eating cams so im thinking the lobes on the cam are going flat, it could have a stretched timing chain, it just needs timed right, or all of the above. i don't want to stick tons of money into the thing cause im trying to save up to build or buy a 355 or 383 stroker, but i need to get it timed, get a new set of plugs, a set of headers, and do the exhaust for inspection so it passes. i was also told after i bought the truck that one of the cylinders has low or no compression (can't remember which)

305 H.O..JPG

305 H.O. 2.JPG

1977 Chevy Cheyenne interior.jpg

1977 Chevy Cheyenne rear view.jpg
 
you may need to clearace the front driveshaft. be sure re-torque your u-bolts after some miles also.
 
when you say clearance the front drive shaft, do you mean grind out the stops at the top of the shaft? also can i run a slip yoke rear shaft with a 6" lift?
 
ya, grind out the stops in the cv joint. you can run either style rear shaft. a shaft with the slip in the shaft is more preferable than a slip yoke incase of a failure, you just remove the shaft and have no leakage. it can also give you a longer shaft making it less of an angle.
 
i hope the front shaft i have works if i clearance it and i think im going to stick with the slip yoke shaft for now espically since i found out you have one you said you would sell me
 
i just swapped in a 1 ton master and 3/4 ton power booster tonight (pics to follow as it was raining tonight) and everything went smoothly except for the brake lines. the front line is 3/16 and the back line is larger. does anyone happen to know what size adapter the 1 ton master takes, i think its 5/8 but im not 100% sure. i had one on the front of the 1/2 ton master but its too small for the 1 ton
 
you swap the lines. originally the front res. was in the front, now it's in the back. at least that's how mine all worked out. advance auto has all the brake line adapters. there behind the counter in metal boxes.
 
so the line that was originally for the front should be moved to the back and the line that was originally for the back should be moved to the front?
 
the back line fits in the front, but the front is too small for the back. the front line is 3/16 and the back is 5/8 i believe.. does that sound right?
 
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