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1977 lq9 k10 stepside

T

tgs30

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I have a 1977 c10 swb stepside, k10 swb chassy, lq9, 4l65e and a np241 and I am looking to build dd/ beater k10 stepside that will occasionally tow a trailer. I will add pictures when I get to 5 posts.



I got a complete lq9 from a 2003 escalade with 110 thousand miles. I am going to use dirty dingo engine mounts and ORDs crossmember.





Frame is all cleaned up and painted. I am currently stuck trying to get out front right inner bearing. Does anybody know any tricks?



I have also ordered replacement floors and rockers and hope to replace them this week.

 
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sweet! subscribed. workin on an lq4 swap myself.

i'm a little confused, does the c10 have an lq9 in it? or are you swappin the c10 body onto your k10 frame with an lq9?
 
I'm swapping the c10 body onto the k10 frame with a lq9. All has gone smooth so far except for the rusty spindle bearing and rusty body.
 
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It's been a month but not as much progress I would like. I have been doing a lot of rust repair. Below are the pics. I have finished all of the patches but dont have any pictures. Ill try to post them later.

Bottom of the A pillars were rusted through.






Also had rust and debris hidden in the tip of my hood.


Does anyone have a good reason why I need to patch this section at the back of the cab? It is going to be covered by the bed and I dont think it serves a purpose.



Also, I was able to cut and hammer out that bearing and the spindle looked fine. The axle shaft on the other hand is worn down pretty good and will need to be replaced.
 
I guarantee you that the visor screw holes leaked. Had the same problem on my truck only much worse.
 
I failed to get the truck in primer again last weekend. I have just about everything stripped to bare metal and ready to go for next weekend. Below are a few more pictures of my patch panels.






The A pillar rust was definitely from the visor leaking. I also found holes every few inches right above my wind shield after stripping my roof. Does anyone know what they would have been from? You can see them filled with bondo in the below picture.

 
Truck looks a little different since my last post.





Also, got the cab on the 4x4 chassy.



Unfortunately, the rear body mounts are off by a half inch. Still not sure what I am going to do about this.





I am working on modifying my trans tunnel now and hope to be putting everything back in for the final time in the next week or two.
 
I don't have any direct shots of it on file but this is close enough:

2013-05-08170641_zpsaa7facaf.jpg
 
Thanks for the picture. It looks like they started doing cross members after 1980. I'm going to keep my eye out for one like that but don't think I'll be able to find anything anytime soon. I'm going to check if the frame is narrower there and if it is, I'm going to jack it apart and weld angle iron to the mounts.
 
My frame measures strait and the mounts look solid. So, I think I am just going to widen the cab mount holes for now.

I also came across some very cheap black american racing wheels and 33" tires(little tread but they will be perfect to test the size).



The wheels are for newer chevy's with 4.5 back spacing and the smaller hub bore. I was hoping to get them to work though. Does anyone know the exact hub bore size of 6 lug chevy axles. I measured them at about 3.5" but I was hoping to find the exact size. The new wheels hub bore is about 3" which I think equals 78.3 mm.

Yes I have searched but all of the below links show 73-87 1/2 ton chevy's as also having 78.3 mm hub size.

http://wheelhelp.com/Chevrolet_GMC_Bolt_Patterns2.htm
http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-...p?LugCount=6&StudSpreadInch=5.5#axzz2YEk6Gtwq
http://www.crawlpedia.com/bolt_patterns.htm
 
Got the trans tunnel all welded up and finalized.



As soon as I get a new oil pan the engine will be going in for the final time.

I would still like to router out the American racing wheel hubs but would like the find the exact size before ordering a bit. Does anyone know the exact size of 6 lug 1/2 ton axle hubs?
 
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