That's a very good option, 2WD will have the output speed sensor and target, but since it's already been rebuilt the question is, does it have full length splines on the output shaft? If it does, it will work great.
CK5
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1978 K5 Tribute Restomod (402BBC EFI, 205, 3/4 Ton)
- Thread starter vdamirth
- Start date
1986 K5 to 1978 K5 Tribute
I've used the painless wiring harness, you hand crimp everything on the end, which is nice for custom lengths etc.
I haven't used the AAW harness yet, I will try one next. But from customer feedback they have more connectors already done for you.
However, they both don't include every connector, some are not available and you need to reuse them with either kit.
It's personal preference, both good brands. I can get either.
Hey team, after a long hiatus I’m getting back on this project. I have a few questions.
1. Is the rear shock brace kit from ORD the best off the shelf option to add support/double shear to the rear shocks?
2. Is the Front Upper Shackle Hanger upgrade worth the effort? I did buy custom springs from ORD (only 2” of lift I think) but I don’t recall what size bushing/ bolt those springs have at the moment. I already bought front spring hangers because the core support mounts were jacked up.
3. The previous owner welded in the steering box repair plate. Is it worth adding in the steering box brace kit? Will it fit correctly with the repair plate welded in place?
4. I planned to leave the stock rear spring hanger and shackle hanger. What’s the consensus on that? I don’t mind changing them out or doing a shackle flip but if it’s not necessary I won’t mess with them other than new bolts and bushings.
1. Is the rear shock brace kit from ORD the best off the shelf option to add support/double shear to the rear shocks?
2. Is the Front Upper Shackle Hanger upgrade worth the effort? I did buy custom springs from ORD (only 2” of lift I think) but I don’t recall what size bushing/ bolt those springs have at the moment. I already bought front spring hangers because the core support mounts were jacked up.
3. The previous owner welded in the steering box repair plate. Is it worth adding in the steering box brace kit? Will it fit correctly with the repair plate welded in place?
4. I planned to leave the stock rear spring hanger and shackle hanger. What’s the consensus on that? I don’t mind changing them out or doing a shackle flip but if it’s not necessary I won’t mess with them other than new bolts and bushings.
Maybe I can help:
1. Yea, its an affordable and an easy solution. I haven't seen any other options out there. The pics I have seen of wrecked shock mounts and cracked frames led me to getting these for both of my squares.
2. Depends on how hard you are going to wheel your rig. Lots of side loading with flex wastes the upper bushings, and the factory bolts are kinda small. A Dana 60 adds to the weight being pushed around. Honestly the FUSH is real easy to install.
3. The bolt in brace will work, might need some longer bolts. I would do it for peace of mind.
4. I have never seen a problem with the factory rear stuff, besides the shackles, which are weak. (I have seen them completely wasted). But, there is a reason HD replacement hangers are out there.
Catch me up: What size tires will you run? Street cruiser or trail rig?
1. Yea, its an affordable and an easy solution. I haven't seen any other options out there. The pics I have seen of wrecked shock mounts and cracked frames led me to getting these for both of my squares.
2. Depends on how hard you are going to wheel your rig. Lots of side loading with flex wastes the upper bushings, and the factory bolts are kinda small. A Dana 60 adds to the weight being pushed around. Honestly the FUSH is real easy to install.
3. The bolt in brace will work, might need some longer bolts. I would do it for peace of mind.
4. I have never seen a problem with the factory rear stuff, besides the shackles, which are weak. (I have seen them completely wasted). But, there is a reason HD replacement hangers are out there.
Catch me up: What size tires will you run? Street cruiser or trail rig?
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@cheavyk10 thanks for the response.
1. Will move forward with the shock brace. It’s easy enough and I was pretty convinced on that already.
2. It won’t get wheeled heavily at all but since I was replace the front eye hanger I was kind of leaning toward the FUSH simply for bolt improvement and consistency. It’s an 8-lug Dana44 so not the weight of the Dana60.
3. Agreed. Peace of mind is worth that to me.
4. It’s a mild 2” lift and will likely run a 33” tire. It’s not really going to be a wheeler but I believe in overkill. I like the thought of replacing the shackle. I am going to strip this frame and coat it so the thought here was, do I want to cut the rivets for the rear hangers or not. Obviously some time and money goes into replacing and if it’s not necessary I may pass on it.
1. Will move forward with the shock brace. It’s easy enough and I was pretty convinced on that already.
2. It won’t get wheeled heavily at all but since I was replace the front eye hanger I was kind of leaning toward the FUSH simply for bolt improvement and consistency. It’s an 8-lug Dana44 so not the weight of the Dana60.
3. Agreed. Peace of mind is worth that to me.
4. It’s a mild 2” lift and will likely run a 33” tire. It’s not really going to be a wheeler but I believe in overkill. I like the thought of replacing the shackle. I am going to strip this frame and coat it so the thought here was, do I want to cut the rivets for the rear hangers or not. Obviously some time and money goes into replacing and if it’s not necessary I may pass on it.
Got all the pieces that were bolted onto the frame removed today. Will have another day in cutting the rivets for mounting brackets. I’ll remove the axles at that point and start working on that prep afterwards.
I took some pics of the frame and am curious if anyone thinks there’s a tweak or twist going on. Not sure it will matter once the body goes back on but I wanted to ask the group.
Anyone in or near North Carolina have any interest in a 700r4 and NP203??
I took some pics of the frame and am curious if anyone thinks there’s a tweak or twist going on. Not sure it will matter once the body goes back on but I wanted to ask the group.
Anyone in or near North Carolina have any interest in a 700r4 and NP203??
1. Yes, although you can also make it yourself.
2. Yes mostly for the bigger bolt.
3. Yes the bolt on brace is the reinforcement, the weld on patch is just that, a repair fishplate.
4. If you have the lift springs for the back no need to touch the hangers. If you don't and you want a softer suspension, you can do 2.5" shackle flip that will level up the truck with the 2" front.
You have been gone a while stranger, welcome back
@imiceman44 thanks for the input. It has been awhile. Between work, building a house and a number of side projects it’s been a long hiatus but hopefully I can get back on track. I do keep up with builds on the site almost nightly.
Hey y’all. I’ve got an air chisel and working on these rivets but I’ve gotta have something incorrect. It seems to jump around if I let off pressure and if I hold pressure on the chisel it doesn’t seem to hammer effectively. I’ve had air pressure anywhere from 90-130psi and I sharpened the bits on the bench grinder. Also have two different air hammers. One of unknown make that was at our shop and a new Chief one from HF. Any idea what I’m doing wrong? It’s definitely going as well as the YouTube videos I watched haha.
I always just grind the head of the rivets off although you get super dirty.
@cheavyk10 yeah, I’ve got a combo of the air chisel, grinder and hammer/punch going. About to pull out the torch…
12 of 72 complete
12 of 72 complete
So, the system is working better but not YouTube level yet. Not really sure if it’s my air chisel or these rivets are tougher.
22 of 72 complete
Also, when I bought this truck there was no front clip which was ideal. Can anyone tell me what attaches to this front crossmember?
The only thing attached when I started stripping the frame down was a manifold for the brake lines, but I see there’s slotted holes below. Is that for the sway bar? I will google a diagram later but just curious. These holes seem very purposeful.
22 of 72 complete
Also, when I bought this truck there was no front clip which was ideal. Can anyone tell me what attaches to this front crossmember?
The only thing attached when I started stripping the frame down was a manifold for the brake lines, but I see there’s slotted holes below. Is that for the sway bar? I will google a diagram later but just curious. These holes seem very purposeful.
Good evening team, it wasn’t as productive as a day as I hoped but right now the goal is making continuous progresses no matter how small. Current plans are to remove all the rivets from spring hangers, shock mounts, exhaust hangers, brake line supports and middle cross members. I’m going to use the ORD engine crossmember and will be fabricating a trans/t-case crossmember too. I think I’ll beef up the front shock mounts and I did buy the ORD rear shock brace but I’m reconsidering how I mount the rear shocks. I have Bilstein 5125 shocks but I need to check the length.
Question: is it worth considering inboarding the rear shocks instead of the stock locations? I understand the opposing angle rears help orient the axle through compression but I do see a lot of folks inboard at the same angle. I could integrate the shock mounts in a fabricated crossmember.
What are the benefits or disadvantages of doing this?
Also, if anyone has any input on the forwardmost stock crossmember I’d appreciate the input.
Thanks,
V
Question: is it worth considering inboarding the rear shocks instead of the stock locations? I understand the opposing angle rears help orient the axle through compression but I do see a lot of folks inboard at the same angle. I could integrate the shock mounts in a fabricated crossmember.
What are the benefits or disadvantages of doing this?
Also, if anyone has any input on the forwardmost stock crossmember I’d appreciate the input.
Thanks,
V
Was checking out the sway bar page on ORD (I purchased one a few years ago but didn’t pay it much attention) and answered my own question. Those slotted holes are for the sway bar mounts.
Cracked open the front diff today. Carrier looks decent, definitely needs a cleaning and new hardware. I counted the teeth on the ring gear 41 and the pinion 11 which gives me a 3.73. I was planning to go for a set of 4.10 gears.
402 big block, 4L80e trans, NP205 case, 33” tires, majority of its time will be on the road with occasional mild off road for this family.
What’s everyone’s thoughts on gears? From my research it’s 4.10 or 4.56.
The rear I purchased (11.5” AAM) is supposed to be 4.10 but I haven’t opened it yet.
402 big block, 4L80e trans, NP205 case, 33” tires, majority of its time will be on the road with occasional mild off road for this family.
What’s everyone’s thoughts on gears? From my research it’s 4.10 or 4.56.
The rear I purchased (11.5” AAM) is supposed to be 4.10 but I haven’t opened it yet.
When I had my suburban on 33s and 3.73 gears and a sbc 350 it was fine,then I broke the rear 10 bolt so I got a 4.10 geared 14bff and it was perfect it woke up the engine.
With the 4.10 you're going to like it.
While looking up gears, Yukon for example, I’m seeing 4.11 thick gear for 3.73 and down 3 series carrier and then 4.11 gear for a 4 series carrier.
So if I reuse this carrier, which I feel pretty good about, I would get the thick gear?
If for whatever reason I decide to replace the carrier, should I maintain the series 3 (3.73 and down) or go up to series 4 (3.92 and up). Would changing the carrier size require me to use different size spider gears?
I’m gonna head to YouTube academy but figured I’d check here as well.
Thanks! V
If you want to reuse your carrier get the thick gears, if you're changing carriers get the right one, I am pretty sure thick gears are more expensive.
My engine builder friend is a dealer for Yukon gears and another brand so I’ve been looking through those. Surprisingly, the thick gears are showing up cheaper. Maybe the material for the thinner gear is stronger or maybe the demand on those is higher. Just an example from Summit
