You can pick up a 10.5 for the cost of gears and without looking I think the locker selection is much better.
CK5
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1978 K5 Tribute Restomod (402BBC EFI, 205, 3/4 Ton)
- Thread starter vdamirth
- Start date
1986 K5 to 1978 K5 Tribute
The 10.5” is plenty strong enough, easier to work on and lots cheaper to get parts for. If you’re buying lockers and gears, I would probably just use it. If you’re just running the factory govlock, it might make more sense to use the 11.5”.
I don’t think that you would have any trouble running 4.56 gears in the front and 4.63 in the back unless you are running in 4wd on pavement.
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Well damn, @tarussell you are correct. Thank you for catching that. After I read your post, I did some research and the 10 bolts wings as well as the more round cover are the giveaway. At this point I had only ordered crossover steering and new knuckles so it seems all of that should be fine. I will need to order gears correctly though. I’m not installing the gears so hopefully the shop I’m working with would’ve caught that but geez… thank you.
@Babaganoosh and @rksjd8420 I think in an ideal world, I would get the 10.5” with a g80 and 4.10 gears and roll with it. I already have spring perches and u-bolts from ORD, so that’s fine.
The problem is, I already shaved the 11.5” axle tubes. Other than it being enormous, it’s in good shape. I just doubt I can sell it since it’s shaved now.
If I had been more knowledgeable when I was searching for an AAM originally I would’ve gotten a 10.5”, but @rksjd8420 had to school me after I got the 11.5”.
I think in the end, it’s a $500 mistake which sucks
The problem is, I already shaved the 11.5” axle tubes. Other than it being enormous, it’s in good shape. I just doubt I can sell it since it’s shaved now.
If I had been more knowledgeable when I was searching for an AAM originally I would’ve gotten a 10.5”, but @rksjd8420 had to school me after I got the 11.5”.
I think in the end, it’s a $500 mistake which sucks
If you already own the 11.5” and don’t have a 10.5”, and you want to run the G80, I would probably just regear it if it isn’t the gear ratio that you want. AAM oem gears are really not much more than aftermarket gears and are usually way better quality.
@rksjd8420 Im gonna weigh the cost. I do have a lead on a 10.5” with 4.11 gears that’s less than the cost of gears for the 11.5”. I do have the time in cutting off the spring perches and shock mounts but it’s not a ton.
I got the GM 10 bolt (thanks again @tarussell) completely broken down today except for removing the pinion and carrier. One spindle was a huge PITA, and after getting it off I think it’s gonna need to be replaced. I tried every play in the book to get it off cleanly but it was stuck stuck. The axle shafts looked good
Should be ready for blasting and repainting very soon.
I got the GM 10 bolt (thanks again @tarussell) completely broken down today except for removing the pinion and carrier. One spindle was a huge PITA, and after getting it off I think it’s gonna need to be replaced. I tried every play in the book to get it off cleanly but it was stuck stuck. The axle shafts looked good
Should be ready for blasting and repainting very soon.
These spindle puller tools are a great thing to have in your tool box specialty drawer.
When re-installing the spindle lightly lather up the flange part that comes in contact with the knuckle with anti-seeze - this will keep corrosion from making it difficult to remove next time.
When re-installing the spindle lightly lather up the flange part that comes in contact with the knuckle with anti-seeze - this will keep corrosion from making it difficult to remove next time.
@tarussell, I saw that tool but couldn’t get it quickly. I saw a guy on YT sacrifice his spindle nut socket to make one but I wasn’t ready to do that… I honestly don’t think it would’ve worked.
I’m about to be on the road a bit with less shop time available so I wanted to get it stripped this week. I for sure thought the double spindle nut with a puller would get it moving but I was wrong. Will definitely add some anti seize during reassembly.
I’m about to be on the road a bit with less shop time available so I wanted to get it stripped this week. I for sure thought the double spindle nut with a puller would get it moving but I was wrong. Will definitely add some anti seize during reassembly.
Be careful smacking the spindle with a short heavy headed mini-sledge - the spindle is fairly malleable and you could hurt some areas that need to be left alone.
Try spraying /drenching with some very strong penetrating oiil at the knuckle and spindle mating area and let it set overnight.
Then take a 2x4 about a foot in length and place it on spindle end to end style (out towards the end for maximum leverage ) and hit the other end of the wood in an “X” pattern working on opposite side from your last hit.
The wood will transfer a decent amount of the hitting force w/o hurting the metal.
Try spraying /drenching with some very strong penetrating oiil at the knuckle and spindle mating area and let it set overnight.
Then take a 2x4 about a foot in length and place it on spindle end to end style (out towards the end for maximum leverage ) and hit the other end of the wood in an “X” pattern working on opposite side from your last hit.
The wood will transfer a decent amount of the hitting force w/o hurting the metal.
I usually go with a chisel at the base of the spindle and it pops pretty easily
@tarussell i didn’t strike the shaft surface of the spindle with a sledge. I tapped with a rubber dead blow to create a gap at the mating surface of the knuckle. This worked great on the driver side. I had the whole side apart in less than 10 minutes.
The passenger side, I left soaked with penetrating oil overnight and tension on the spindle using a 2 jaw puller. Unfortunately the puller method didn’t work this time. @imiceman44, I eventually used a chisel, tapping around the perimeter of the flange. It took a lot, and eventually came off but it tore up the edge of the spindle flange in my opinion.
The shaft section of the spindle is in great condition. The bearing surfaces look very good. I know that perimeter can be cleaned up and it’s not a sealing surface but I may just replace it.
Won’t be able to work on it until next Thursday or Friday at the earliest which is a bummer but it’s all good. Thank y’all for all of the great guidance! I’d be screwed if it wasn’t for this forum.
The passenger side, I left soaked with penetrating oil overnight and tension on the spindle using a 2 jaw puller. Unfortunately the puller method didn’t work this time. @imiceman44, I eventually used a chisel, tapping around the perimeter of the flange. It took a lot, and eventually came off but it tore up the edge of the spindle flange in my opinion.
The shaft section of the spindle is in great condition. The bearing surfaces look very good. I know that perimeter can be cleaned up and it’s not a sealing surface but I may just replace it.
Won’t be able to work on it until next Thursday or Friday at the earliest which is a bummer but it’s all good. Thank y’all for all of the great guidance! I’d be screwed if it wasn’t for this forum.
Post a picture, but that mating area is not that important of a surface. Grind and smooth the high points, and your spindle should be fine. I’ve boogered some up pretty good before, and reused them with no issues.
Martin
Martin
Exactly.
That's why I hit it there because damage there is inconsequential
So I picked up a 10.5” AAM today that I found on marketplace for a pretty reasonable price plus threw in the wheels which I wasn’t planning to keep. Made sure to check the gears which were in good shape and verified them to be 4.10. Need to take off the perches and shock mounts but all in all an easy switch. I’ll list the 14BFF (3.73) and the 11.5”AAM (4.63) and should come out as a wash. Wish I would’ve just gotten this axle the first time around but live and learn
I think you will not be disappointed.
Only downside is the size of it.
Only downside is the size of it.
Still a freaking boat anchor lol
Frame got dustless blasted today and taken to my friend’s auto body shop. They are going to epoxy primer it and paint it. We’re trading some housework for paint work so it was a no brainer for me since they’re set up much better than me to do that.
