1979 K-10 Stepside Shortbox - Beagle's Build -

[6872xtc]

You bet that I would like to meet up sometime! Over here or on your side of the hills.
Keep in mind that I have the X - pipe in the 2wd longbed. More room there. I do wonder if you could work one in above the rear drive shaft and behind the t-case. I know that is not the technically best location, but I have no clue if it would be bad for results.
I put one of the MSD E-curve distributors in my 406 and so far it's great!
I understand the hit to the budget, I just hope you can rebuild your funds in time to keep all of us (and you) from having to wait too long to see the end results!

 

[beags86]

Well that escalated quickly! Well not really...

So I am sure most of you are thinking something like "Oooh new shininess, what could be next"
4 link?
3 link?
Cage?
Tube frame?

Well actually, none of the above, well the welder will get some use on the truck eventually.
The things I will be attending to for the next few months is getting my business off the ground. I will not be going full time yet. I am trying to establish a customer base through a few projects I have lined up. So spare "stepside cash" will be tougher for while. This welder was a cost to my overhead and I will be picking up a few other things to get it up and going, one thing, particularly will most likely make an appearance here.

 

[beags86]

You bet that I would like to meet up sometime! Over here or on your side of the hills.
Keep in mind that I have the X - pipe in the 2wd longbed. More room there. I do wonder if you could work one in above the rear drive shaft and behind the t-case. I know that is not the technically best location, but I have no clue if it would be bad for results.
I put one of the MSD E-curve distributors in my 406 and so far it's great!
I understand the hit to the budget, I just hope you can rebuild your funds in time to keep all of us (and you) from having to wait too long to see the end results!

Haha, it will be your side of the hill, I LOVE the western slope. My wife likes it up there too. We talk about moving up there a lot. Pretty much every time we go through there. Grand Junction seems chill, much better then the hustle and bustle of mile high. People are laid back. Very much like the Midwest.

Based on your recommendation I had looked at the E-curve very hard.
But I ended up with the ready to run.

 

[82355]

What business?

Martin

 

[beags86]

What business?

Martin

Weld and Welding Inspection, NDT

The welder will be used for:
Welder qualification
WPS development
PQR development
Forensic welding investigation

 

[beags86]

Small update.

So since I have put myself on a fiscal lockdown to recoup some of the 406 cost, I am forced to do some little (i.e. cheap) things to keep myself sane.

I was digging around in a yard yesterday I stumbled onto a 6.2. While I don't have a use for that boat anchor, I do have a use for some diesel parts, namely the hydroboost. It was always in the plan, but I needed to get the pedal setup as the pivot pin to hole for the booster pushrod is a different dimension then a vacuum booster pedal setup.

Today I grabbed them. (Sorry guys no nv4500 conversion in the works at this time) Since you have to take the booster itself off for the pedal bucket I grabbed it. Not sure I will use it, might just use it as a core for a reman unit.

So I have the pedal and booster, I am missing anything else? Where can I get the lines I need? Or should I go back and grab the stock lines for the hard ends and have Parker re-line them? I am ok with either option.

I also grabbed the little reservoir(not shown) for the ps. For increased fluid.
I know I need to put a return in the ps pump reservoir.
Have a cooler.

I think I have all my bases covered. But I feel like I am missing something.

 

[82355]

Do you need a set of automatic pedals?

Martin

 

[6872xtc]

My opinion is grab the factory lines for the ends. You already know Parker could set you up!

 

[beags86]

Do you need a set of automatic pedals?

Martin

Do you have a set? I guess I don't now.... I was planning on taking out the brake pedal shaft from the 4 speed bucket and welding the factory auto brake pad onto it.

My opinion is grab the factory lines for the ends. You already know Parker could set you up!

Most likely this is what I will do. I checked rockauto and they only sell clamp on rubber replacement lines. (no hard ends) I wasn't sure if someone made full replacement lines.

on another note, it looks like I just need to weld a bung into the factory ps pump for the return (low psi) line. Correct?

 

[6872xtc]

on another note, it looks like I just need to weld a bung into the factory ps pump for the return (low psi) line. Correct?

When I put hydro - boost on my '70, I got a kit from Vanco. They supplied me with Aeroquip style lines that I built myself. I forgot that. He included the adapters. Anyway, he told me that I didn't need the second return line port on the reservoir, just install a tee as close as possible to the reservoir and make the return from the booster a straight shot back. Have the return from the box come in from the side. It has been fine for over 5K miles so far.

 

[beags86]

Where can I get the lines I need? Or should I go back and grab the stock lines for the hard ends and have Parker re-line them? I am ok with either option.

I see that most parts store stock the lines, napa, o Reilly, etc etc, i think i will just buy some new ones.... going to pick up a new pump to go with it.

 

[ryoken]

When I put hydro - boost on my '70, I got a kit from Vanco. They supplied me with Aeroquip style lines that I built myself. I forgot that. He included the adapters. Anyway, he told me that I didn't need the second return line port on the reservoir, just install a tee as close as possible to the reservoir and make the return from the booster a straight shot back. Have the return from the box come in from the side. It has been fine for over 5K miles so far.

Vanco rocks...

 

[dremu]

So since I have put myself on a fiscal lockdown to recoup some of the 406 cost, I am forced to do some little (i.e. cheap) things to keep myself sane.

I was digging around in a yard yesterday I stumbled onto a 6.2. While I don't have a use for that boat anchor, I do have a use for some diesel parts, namely the hydroboost. It was always in the plan, but I needed to get the pedal setup as the pivot pin to hole for the booster pushrod is a different dimension then a vacuum booster pedal setup.

Today I grabbed them. (Sorry guys no nv4500 conversion in the works at this time) Since you have to take the booster itself off for the pedal bucket I grabbed it. Not sure I will use it, might just use it as a core for a reman unit.

So I have the pedal and booster, I am missing anything else? Where can I get the lines I need? Or should I go back and grab the stock lines for the hard ends and have Parker re-line them? I am ok with either option.

I also grabbed the little reservoir(not shown) for the ps. For increased fluid.
I know I need to put a return in the ps pump reservoir.
Have a cooler.

I think I have all my bases covered. But I feel like I am missing something.

Master is different for hydro than for vacuum, so you'll need a different one.

Also, what year did that booster come off? The backing plate looks like the later, 90's style.

-- A

 

[ashman]

Also, what year did that booster come off? The backing plate looks like the later, 90's style.

-- A

Looks like the right plate to me. If you look closely you can see that it isn't flat.

 

[beags86]

Master is different for hydro than for vacuum, so you'll need a different one.

Also, what year did that booster come off? The backing plate looks like the later, 90's style.

-- A

Correct, I plan on buying a new master cylinder for it.

Today I went back (to the yard) and got the small metal line for the return (low psi) from the hydroboost to the ps pump. It was free and I was running errands right next to the yard.

The hydroboost came off an '82 C20.

So to recap my plans:
New steering gear for a '82 C10 for the cross over steering. Have core gear now, was going to to have West Texas Off-road rebuild it for their redneck ram. (going to put hydro assist on hold)
New high pressure lines from napa.
New power steering pump for my serpentine setup.
New master cylinder for '82 C20
New lines for cooler.
Replace brake pedal rod with yard unit.
New hydroboost unit. (paid 20 at yard for a 30 dollar core - money ahead)

Once this is set up and working correctly then I will be looking into hydro assist. But That's down the road.

Am I ahead of the vanco unit Price wise? I don't know right now, but one thing that's nice is that I can pick up the pieces as the budget allows and not have to worry about a 700 dollar whack to the wallet.

 

[dremu]

Looks like the right plate to me. If you look closely you can see that it isn't flat.

Yeah, I just had to turn my head a bit. Forgot about the stupid studs and was thinking it should have six bolt holes.

New master cylinder for '82 C20

Just to be on the safe side, I'd get a master for a diesel (or whatever to get hydroboost) K20, i.e. a 4WD truck to match yours. I don't know if the brake biasing is different from 2WD to 4WD.

I haven't had an aftermarket setup (Vanco), so I can only speak to factory stuff. I can say that when I converted from vacuum to hydroboost, the braking was materially improved. Maybe it was having new parts, but even on that heavy crewcab I could lock up all six tires if I whanged the pedal hard. It felt good.

-- A

 

[sreidmx]

I think the front and rear ports for the lines are reversed compared to a normal vaccum 1/2 ton booster..

 

[6872xtc]

The reason I went to Vanco was I didn't know how I was going to make it fit my '70. Come to find out his bracket was off slightly. But Van was great to deal with. He told me that if it ever leaks, send it back to him!

 

[ryoken]

he knows EVERYTHING about hydro.... great guy to deal with... especially for small oddball parts and info

 

[dremu]

I think the front and rear ports for the lines are reversed compared to a normal vaccum 1/2 ton booster..

I thought that was just the disc/disc masters, so I didn't mention it Edelmann makes adapters for switching 1/2" to 9/16" inverted flare and back, their part #'s 258307 and 258306 (you need one of each)

I discovered that mine is happier switched by trying it. Once the truck is otherwise set up, it's easy/cheap enough to swap lines to try it out. Just means bleeding for the eleventy-billionth time.

-- A