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1979 K30 Pile of Hillbilly Crap.

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That is cause you have never been in anything that will pull the front tires.
 
schuttothrill said:
Thanks dudes! It was just for ****s and gigs since John is always so willing to help me out with stuff. If I was going to do a run, the biggest issue would be that I would actually have to buy a big bar of 2.25x2.25 which I don't have the money for. As far as CNC machining them goes, it would be easy enough, but I'm not very experienced yet so it would take me a few tries to figure out the most efficient way, as far as a run would be concerned.

I did pick up that pipe chunk, for some reason I had it in my head that the thing was like an inch in diameter- It's a bit bigger than that! Anyway I'll get some measurements and then I'll get it to you somehow.. then when I have time I can figure out how to make a two piece one.

Any and all farmer solutions (as I call them... John knows) are welcome, as I am generally known for making everything far too complicated!
Click to expand...

What an impressive piece...awesome work. I've always felt the most rewarding part of making something is being able to hold it in your hand and admire it. With the web now, it's cool that you can hold it in your hand and also let others admire it. That same piece, made out of aluminum would be awesome for a steering stabilizer clamp. I've been trying to figure out a way to do it and that's as nice a way as I've ever seen. Far cooler than the stud approach a company is making for some rigs now

ama7aqy3.jpg


The beauty of your design is the bolt is in double sheer. The one above, since it threads into the clamp, is likely to fail over time - especially when used for ram assist like in the picture. If the bolt even loosens a fraction, it will wallow out the threads. On yours, the nut could fall off and it would still work as long as the bolt doesn't fall out as well.

y8evaju4.jpg


When you cut the radius for the tubing how do you cut it? Did you drill it and then use a slitting saw, face it and then cut the profile with a ball mill, or use the correct size end mill with a long enough length of cut or an adjustable boring head?
 
I did the holes, CBs, and threads on the two seperate pieces, then bolted them together and bored the hole with an adj head with the center offset .050 into the body. After it was sized correctly, I took the pieces apart and milled .100 off the face of the body, thus centering the tube in the clamp assembly, with .050 of relief in both the body and the cap, making a .100 gap after it's bolted onto the tube, assuming the tube is 1.25 +\- .005 or so.
 
So it is on and works good. The only think I am not sure about is that I was afraid of making the fixed end too high so I mounted it on the spring plate so the cylinder pushes straight on. Being this low it tends to push up on the tie rods. also since I have offset tie rods ends there is more up travel of the tierods. Not sure if this will be a problem. Otherwise it works great.

this is a picture of the end cap tapped.


If you look hard you can see the tapped top cap.


This is my spring plate. I tried my best to tie is all to the plate and to to each half of the mount so it was plenty strong.


Here it is on the truck


Here it is pulling so the clamp is level.


Here it is pushing so the clamp is tillted up.


I am not sure how bad it is that it is pushing up and over and I may change it after running awhile. I am afraid if I mount it higher it will have a bunch more angular force on the spring plate. Also I was worried about interference between the crossmember and the cylinder.
 
You don't need to bump this. People don't like to look at junk.
 
I may, but not by memorial day. It is easy enough to pull that spring plate and mod it.
 
You have yet to put an eye too it Mike. It may not be as nice as you make it in your mind.
 
I usually can recognize good function. When I design things I just like the challenge of getting function and form.
 
Phuuuuuuuuuuuubb. I didn't even paint the stuff. You can watch my form as I crawl past you.
 
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