CK5
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There is always something small to work on. Preping parts for later.:doah:
 
Don't know much I can do, I got my measurement for the shocks. have extended bolts for when the TnA cradle comes to bolt my bumper over it if needed.

I even have access to a couple shops near by to bend up new hoops.
 
I got a hold of the shop I have been dealing with for welding. they have a bender that has a 1.5in die. Do you guys think that would be to small? Just looked my ballistic fab hoops were 1.75 and they seemed to big so I think these will work out good. Wouldn't mind even going a little smaller if that would seem ok.

I'm thinking about using this to create the hoops so they are perfect.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell...ap-Insulation-OEP05838/100572787#.UlHiehAgpMc

Seems like a good idea. :dunno:
 
The homedepot stuff is not strong enough. Maybe with some PVC for and engine cross bar, it might work.:haha:

1.5 inchx0.120 wall with a cross bar would be enough. Until you go to coil overs and links.:woot:
 
What would be good for coil overs and links? Trying to do the top portion once then twice.

it would just be for a mock up and to check clearances around the a/c box, master cylinder and steering shaft.
 
Extra triangulation. Mines 1.5x0.120, but I also have them tied to the A piller hoop, the core support and the engine cross bar.
 
Had a busy day on today... Worked and finally got the TnA cross member in with the extra help I got now. :thumb: My frame was a little tweaked with the lack of cross members but it's good now it pulled it together and everything is set.

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Next step in building the shock hoops was getting the engine in and setting up clearances.

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The headers don't fit as good as I was wishing. They are contacting the frame, when it revs it will crush the tubes into the frame. I have like 1-2mm between the frame and header.

Drivers side
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Passenger side.
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I cut down a piece of lumber and set it on the fenders to check for intake manifold clearances.
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1 inch and 1/4 clearance. Good thing I have a cowl hood, :doah::grind::hack::weld: When Kurt built the first set of LS Mounts he made my set, he came back and said it could cause clearance issues, We had talked about making another set to raise the engine another inch, I think it would work very well going a inch and a half up and I'll cut the hood to adapt the engine if needed. What is your thoughts on this guys?
 
Holy blue pics batman! Please adjust your camera or something :p

I think your engine has more clearance than you think. Use the brake master cylinder for reference. In the pics it appears higher than your engine.
 
Yaa my phone took goofy pictures and the lack of light didn't help. I fixed the settings.

You know I didn't think about that I'll have to set the hood on it tomorrow and see how it looks. I'm also going to maybe put the transmission and transfer case in and set those up.
 
It's a tease, has to come out for final weld of the shock hoops, painting the frame and painting of the engine. Don't want to scratch pretty paint now. :pimp:



Everyone keeps telling me it's not a show truck scratches are ok. :haha:
 
that is the top of the engine, don't sweat the hood...

you have plenty of clearance...look at where your cowl is.
 
It's amazing what a set of extra eyes does.

Thanks guys, that makes me happy knowing I don't have to cut into my hood. I still might for some chevelle vacuum controlled flaps. :doah:
 
hold a straight edge out from the cabs cowl, you'll see how much space you have to work with...:waytogo:
 
I was running it along the fenders where the hood would sit. I thought that was the best way to measure clearance because of the curve of the fender. :dunno:


My friends at work keep calling it a race truck so when they get a update and are like why did you do it like that. I say because race truck. :pimp:
 
check this out Baba...:waytogo:

 
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The guy said he had 2010 camaro headers. They look like they clear pretty well. I'll have to do some measuring of the set I have on mine for future LS swap reference.
 
the 2010-2012 camaro headers he has work pretty good except he had to clearance the lower part of the frame rail on both sides by about a half inch and also had to change the angle of the collectors because they pointed down to far.
 
The headers I have are supposed to be specific to our generation with swaps. Sense mine is such w cluster I think is where it runs into problems
 
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