Oh yes every setup is different but it will give me a ball park to go off of.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm sure you could adjust them for now and later, but I'm telling you, if you intend to actually use your truck and flex it what that suspension is capable of, you just are going to have to trim. Some folks say they clear 35s with 4" but they must have just the world's most perfect setup. I had 6" and bald 35s and rubbed frequently when flexing. I rubbed even with 4" and 33s. I also rubbed with 4"and 35s.
andyblack
Registered Loser
That's the truth. I run 4" Tuff Country front springs with 35x12.50s on 8x10 wheels with 3.75" backspacing, and I did have to trim the fenders a good bit at the rear and later add a zero rate and longer bump stops to get the tires to not contact the metal enough to mangle it and cut the tires on the sharp edges of the fender where I first had to cut it at. Driving it on the street, they never hit, but when I take it off road... I still hear a bad sound from time to time.
My 35's rub on my trailing arms also. No amount of trimming will fix that.
Hmmmm I'm pondering what to do maybe I can cut them and make it look factory.
I have been looking on craigslist for months hoping a set comes up cheap. 
X2!
My small 33s rubbed with Superlift 4" springs. My 33s on the crew cab rub with 6" occasionally. There is just no way around it with the front fenders on these trucks besides lifting it to look like a roller skate, or having custom fender openings.
Well poop then, whats the safest thing to rub then. I would assume the inner fender. I just don't want to smash the body up if I can avoid it.
Temp shock hoops. No coils. No nitrogen. Cycle the suspension with the tires on at full lock on the steering. Only way to tell. But it will look more like a mud truck than a cool wheeler.
That is the plan we will see what hits.
Someone stop me while I put to much thought into spray painting the body before bb14 then save up my pennys for a real pain job. I'm about half way to a real one. It would be with those Sherwin Williams custom cans that I have already used.
Getting the time off and driving it to Wade's would be very hard to do.
Getting the time off and driving it to Wade's would be very hard to do.
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
I would rather just not paint it all until the real paint job.
Primered color is ok while it is being worked on.
I just don't want to be known as the rainbow truck.
Like I put all my money in a engine trans and suspension but can't afford paint.
Like I put all my money in a engine trans and suspension but can't afford paint.
bodywork stuff should be soooooooooooo far from your brain it's not even funny.. not even primer...
ya have the truck up and running, with some shakedown driving the week prior? sure, go ahead and douche it quick with one color primer.. otherwise you better just concentrate on mechanical this point...
who cares what it looks like...
ya have the truck up and running, with some shakedown driving the week prior? sure, go ahead and douche it quick with one color primer.. otherwise you better just concentrate on mechanical this point...
who cares what it looks like...
I've been saying that for a long time 
I know that I should be worrying about mechanically but once the suspension is done isn't it time for paint sense it's all torn down? I'd hate to put it together just to take it back apart to paint.
This axle is a pain wrestling in by yourself I need to wait for some help I cant get it.
This axle is a pain wrestling in by yourself I need to wait for some help I cant get it.
a couple quick coats of Ryoken green is always nice to look at, just try to prep the panels correctly before hand, so when you do get to paint you don't have to take it all off again!!! I've been going with that plan for 3 years now!
Just don't leave it out in the rain too often.
Just don't leave it out in the rain too often.
