It's a good thing I'm not a big fan of soup.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Ouch, hey now I have no idea what I'm doing. Very challenging first project...
The laser level doesn't lie.
andyblack
Registered Loser
So is that 5* now?
Just goofing around centering the axle in the fender and thought it was a cool picture. I need to shim the fenders and get the correct gap in the middle of the door then I'll adjust the axle according.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Oh I thought that was for the castor angle. Silly me. Carry on then. Carry on.
No worries I'm starting to really see it coming together.
Shooting for Wednesday to cycle the suspension with shocks.
Shooting for Wednesday to cycle the suspension with shocks.
Trying to align the fender to door today and not having luck. I can't get the gap correct without smashing the door into the fender. I aligned the door to the cab now I just need to get the fender to the door and cab.
Anyone have any tips? I'm thinking about putting paint sticks n the gap and tightening it down. I'm thinking I might have to grind the hinges to get a proper fit.
Maybe I'm just over thinking axle placement in the fender and it can wait until after all the body work is done to turn the control arms?
Anyone have any tips? I'm thinking about putting paint sticks n the gap and tightening it down. I'm thinking I might have to grind the hinges to get a proper fit.
Maybe I'm just over thinking axle placement in the fender and it can wait until after all the body work is done to turn the control arms?
andyblack
Registered Loser
I say get the fender/door gap correct for right now. I don't think it will be a big deal if the front fender isn't perfectly centered with the wheel. Lots of people's aren't and it still does okay.
every panel should always work off a known good, fixed point, like a qrter or rocker.. so start with getting those 2 gaps good... THAN align the fender to the door...
yes, paint sticks work awesome for setting/controlling gaps.. especially a height one like rocker to door.. I've often got many hunks laying around a couple inches long when doing that..
and yes, I think you are probably WAY overthinking your wheel placement.. if anything, I would think a just a bit forward would be better for you... gonna be way easier getting into the back/firewall with that suspension than the fang...
yes, paint sticks work awesome for setting/controlling gaps.. especially a height one like rocker to door.. I've often got many hunks laying around a couple inches long when doing that..
and yes, I think you are probably WAY overthinking your wheel placement.. if anything, I would think a just a bit forward would be better for you... gonna be way easier getting into the back/firewall with that suspension than the fang...
I may just leave it alone for now or get it semi close so I can open the door. I want to set up the 4 inch lift, full bump and maybe get the hoops tacked on.
Probably won't get half of that done but I can hope.
Probably won't get half of that done but I can hope.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I would give you a dollar if any one of my 4 tires are actually centered in the wheel wells. And as ryoken said, I don't think you want them centered anyway. I think a good half inch or more would be way more advantageous. The first place a tire rubs is on the rear of the front fender.
I just don't want to have everything together then pushing the axle around. I figured when the top half isn't built now would be a good time.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I have no idea what the arc of travel will be with this coilover setup, but on a leaf spring-equipped vehicle (especially one with longer springs and shackles), I would actually rather have the wheel slightly forward (like 1" or so) or center so it wouldn't hit at the back. It may not be the same for your plans. Ask Wade what his does.
Only way a linked setup will go is straight up and down. no side to side or forward and back movement. Wade has his centered in the fender with 35's and I believe he doesn't rub the cab.
What it comes down to is I'm trying to be to perfect and don't want to take short cuts and it's driving me nuts. This is where you guys come in and pull be back to reality.
Mine is centered at ride height. Travels forward 1/4 inch at full bump. Goes back ???????? at droop because who cares? The tires are farther away.
Hmmm didn't know that.
I forgot I had a "lunch date" with a friend today in 20 mins so I better get cleaned up.
I forgot I had a "lunch date" with a friend today in 20 mins so I better get cleaned up.
ORD says 8-8.5 for ride height on a factory truck. for my 4 inch I added 4 so 12.5 I'm right at 12.75 for ride height. I went a little on the high side to fit 35's, do you guys think this is fine?
Here is what it looks like outside side shot of the fender. these are bald 285/75/16 which come out to a 32.8x11.2x16 and they measure out to a 31.5 with no weight on.
What do you guys think? Think I'm on the right track or should I lower the frame some so it's not so "tall"
Here is what it looks like outside side shot of the fender. these are bald 285/75/16 which come out to a 32.8x11.2x16 and they measure out to a 31.5 with no weight on.
What do you guys think? Think I'm on the right track or should I lower the frame some so it's not so "tall"
Unless you lift it a bunch more, the ride height doesn't matter much for tire clearance. With low-ish lift heights, bigger tires and lots of suspension travel, it will all come together under compression and it either fits or doesn't (trimming).
Get the tires you want on there and at full bump and that will tell you what you need to know.
Get the tires you want on there and at full bump and that will tell you what you need to know.
