I do remember some late nights when I would get fatigue In my hands and not be able to work a wrench very hard.
All is tight now, going to go for a drive in a bit.
All is tight now, going to go for a drive in a bit.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Much tighter and tracks straighter. I also mounted my tablet that picks up the ecm readings.
I also added a gps speedo to the top left, the vss isn't as accurate, kind of disappointing...
I also added a gps speedo to the top left, the vss isn't as accurate, kind of disappointing...
Try re programming the speedo, I've never had a vss be off with a correctly calibrated speedo.
I can't get it to pull up the pulses from the vss... the autometer sucks I'm highly disappointed.
Damn, that's too bad. I can't say I've used one of the autometer gauges, typically Dakota, new vintage or classic instruments
I believe I have the gauge hooked up but not sure how the vss to the the gauge is working. I don't know how to check it to see if it is generating a signal other then putting the gauge Into calibration mode.
You should be able to check it with a multimeter, what did you do for a adapter? I know on a 4l60 I'm putting in a cj7 with a 205 it has a reluctor ring that came with the adapter.
Disregard^
The truck is shifting though so it should be working, you can see vehicle speed in the tech 2, the speedo should do a full sweep on ignition on, and then work, sometimes you need a module deal to pick up the ecu speedo signal. I know on some Dakota digitals I needed to do that.
Disregard^
The truck is shifting though so it should be working, you can see vehicle speed in the tech 2, the speedo should do a full sweep on ignition on, and then work, sometimes you need a module deal to pick up the ecu speedo signal. I know on some Dakota digitals I needed to do that.
The np241 is from a 91 so it has the vss built in, the tech2 is picking it up and matches my gps speedo on my phone. the harness I used has a speedo wire coming out of it but I don't think it works?
If I hook up a multimeter to it, how would I set it? Would the value increase with speed?
That wire is from the ecu, and it sending the same pulse width you're seeing with the tech 2. I did a quick search, apparently the autometer speedos have this problem, some guys get them to calibrate and be good, others can't get them working.
I don't remember exactly which setting it was on the multimeter, the last one I did was a 3 wire, so you gave the sensor power and ground, hook your multimeter to the sensor wire and ground I believe, rollnthe sensor really slow and you could see each pulse of 12v. But again, your vss is working, the truck wouldn't shift or give a acurate speed without it.
I don't remember exactly which setting it was on the multimeter, the last one I did was a 3 wire, so you gave the sensor power and ground, hook your multimeter to the sensor wire and ground I believe, rollnthe sensor really slow and you could see each pulse of 12v. But again, your vss is working, the truck wouldn't shift or give a acurate speed without it.
Why not just get the gps sender and be done. That way your speedo will work correctly.
We had one in our boat, it takes a minute to get linked the to satellite. Then the antenna would take a shit, we put 3 in over the course of 5 years of ownership.
Is it possible you need a pull up resistor? I had to pull up the voltage on my tach to get it working. I don't recall if something similar needs to be done for the speedo. My autometer speedometer is working perfectly so unless you got a bad one (unlikely), there is probably just a wiring problem.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/72-k5-old-yeller-tie-rod-straightening.287152/page-31#post-3516194
Yes once you get the VSS signal correct to the autometer speedo and calibrate it right (the more accurate your 2 mile distance is the more accurate the speedo will be) it will be more accurate and more consistent than the GPS which will also not work under some trees and through tunnels, etc.
I have used a few of those autometer speedos and they work great every time so far. Sometimes it helps with EMI if you twist the two signal wires coming from the VSS.
I have used a few of those autometer speedos and they work great every time so far. Sometimes it helps with EMI if you twist the two signal wires coming from the VSS.
you should be able to set your meter to HZ (frequency) and check to make sure your wire is carrying a signal. A two wire VSS can be read on the AC voltage setting as well. The tone wheel cutting the magnetic field of the sensor should create a small AC voltage
Hmm, Interesting I'll have to do some research and try to figure it out.
I have been doing a lot of research on lockers, I though I would eventually get one but I can't find one that suits my needs. Sense I sometimes like to hot rod this thing around I like the street characteristics of a posi. I started looking at those E lockers you could flip a switch and turn a posi into a real locker, but they don't have one.
I narrowed it down to a Detroit or a ARB, the Detroit is half the cost but I don't want this thing to bang around and driving on the street or having the rear steer doesn't sound like what I want. A ARB is going to cost me about 1000 and that doesn't sound very eye appealing to me.
I think my best bet is to just put the G80 back in it's spot and be done with it. I don't need a locker, just wanted one. For the crawling I will do about once a year in Moab I will be ok. I'm not willing to beat this truck up off a side of a rock and when I was attending BB14 I was blown away by what the truck could do.
I narrowed it down to a Detroit or a ARB, the Detroit is half the cost but I don't want this thing to bang around and driving on the street or having the rear steer doesn't sound like what I want. A ARB is going to cost me about 1000 and that doesn't sound very eye appealing to me.
I think my best bet is to just put the G80 back in it's spot and be done with it. I don't need a locker, just wanted one. For the crawling I will do about once a year in Moab I will be ok. I'm not willing to beat this truck up off a side of a rock and when I was attending BB14 I was blown away by what the truck could do.
I would do a TruTrac. Best of both worlds in my opinion.
I think on this board we have a tendency to get into the MAW mindset. It's good to be honest w/ yourself about your expectations on this truck and build it for those. If you don't think you're going to be rock bouncing it you may not need lockers.
That was another option, but it will essentially do the same thing as the G80 which will cost me 3 seals, some fluid , case of beers and a 40 min drive.
Exactly what I have come to think, I don't need a locker...
I did the obstacle in my avatar with a G80 and open front diff with ease. It could have been much easier but I was running to much air pressure.
