CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Finally you won't be trying to suck through a gear rotor pump! :waytogo:

And you did not skimp at all on the replacement parts... :thumb:
It should be really good, pick up some power and have room for upgrades. I'm excited to have a better fuel system, this was one of the things I didn't like how it was done before, crazy how 7 years the technology progressed and how available it is now.
 
Pulled the sender apart.

My fuel pump died cause the electrical connector melted inside and on the top plate. The positive terminals were all black. My fuel gauge didn't work because of this as well, can't get a reading out the top but if I hook it to the internals it's fine.

Shortage of fuel pump senders, I did find one last night through lmc by description it's correct.

20220319_113516.jpg

20220317_174103.jpg
 
If your wiring melted the draw is to much. Either the pump was failing and drew to much current, or the wiring size isn't proper for that pump.

I'm gonna go with a little of both.
I agree. Could also be a poor ground for the pump to increase resistance (and current draw). What I'm curious about is why the circuit protection didn't pop before the wires melted.
 
I agree. Could also be a poor ground for the pump to increase resistance (and current draw). What I'm curious about is why the circuit protection didn't pop before the wires melted.
I agree, little puzzled.
If your wiring melted the draw is to much. Either the pump was failing and drew to much current, or the wiring size isn't proper for that pump.

I'm gonna go with a little of both.
It was 10 gauge all the way to the sending unit.
 
I was thinking on the new sender to pull it apart and solder 10 gauge wire to the terminals, but would it be ok with no plastic separating the ground and positive? Or maybe I can just solder the positive and cut the connector?
 
10 ga to the sending unit, wiring failed at sender, makes the sender wiring the circuit protection.
 
Something else was wrong, bad connections create resistance, resistance creates heat. It could have simply been a bad connection at that connector, or a failing pump. I noticed the terminal for the red wire is coming out of the connector. It's possible that happened before if the little "tab" wasn't locked in, and then the connection is bad, and then it melts stuff.

I have had a Walbro pump in the stock sending wiring for 12 years now, along with thousands of others running Walbros in stock senders, that combo works fine when the connections are good, it doesn't pull much amps. You may have had a faulty connector, hard to say. Its best to give the wires a little tug from the back before and after you connect them, to make sure they are still locked in.

If not, there is probably a little metal tab, you can tweak that out just enough it will snap in again in some cases, use caution and judgement, you don't want arcing in your fuel tank. There may not be enough oxygen in there, but you don't want to find out.
 
It's the right one but I need to cut the hose barb off and do compression fittings. The fuel pump install kit was supposed to be delivered today but hopefully tomorrow.
 
Got the compression fittings, walked into speedway motors and bought the two fittings actually off a follower on Instagram. He recognized my name, small world.
 
I didn’t know they had opened a new branch, but I figured that was the case when you said you “walked into”. That’s probably handy.

Martin
 
I didn’t know they had opened a new branch, but I figured that was the case when you said you “walked into”. That’s probably handy.

Martin
I was really excited to hear they were coming, especially on my side of town. Anything like this is about a hour or so away, or way over priced.
 
Top Bottom