CK5
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Don't second guess yourself. If you want to do it, do it. (I dream of it in my K5 lol) Good luck with whatever you decide!
I mean who doesn’t want a 1000ft lbs…


The ls in the truck and the way I use it the frame is a weak link, stuff is bent and not square anymore. It still drives straight but if you look under it, it shows wear. The front axle looks like it’s been hit 20 times.

The truck is showing the age of a 9 year build.
 
I mean who doesn’t want a 1000ft lbs…


The ls in the truck and the way I use it the frame is a weak link, stuff is bent and not square anymore. It still drives straight but if you look under it, it shows wear. The front axle looks like it’s been hit 20 times.

The truck is showing the age of a 9 year build.
Sounds like a new to you K30 frame is the next thing to purchase. Then once it's prepped for boxing and new four link brackets from ORD, the drivetrain can go in.
You will be able to get the D60 and prep it, too. All before taking the '82 apart at all.
Then the body can get swapped whenever the foundation is ready.
:D
 
Sounds like a new to you K30 frame is the next thing to purchase. Then once it's prepped for boxing and new four link brackets from ORD, the drivetrain can go in.
You will be able to get the D60 and prep it, too. All before taking the '82 apart at all.
Then the body can get swapped whenever the foundation is ready.
:D
This has been on my mind for some time maybe 3 years or a custom frame.
 
Same way I use it now, I just want boost and diesels have always intrigued me.

I’m really just trying to justify an insane swap, really no point in it.
I'm all for the ever-evolving nature of a project, and like most folks here, I will look forward to seeing it in action in any configuration.

My suggestions are simple:
- make sure you've got all you want out of your current setup before taking it down for the big change; go on a road trip, go camping, go to Dino's again, go to BB24, do (more) burnouts
- consider buying a K30 frame (or a straight K20 you can modify), and build the swap in parallel to your current running and driving truck, making this a body and suspension swap on a running LMM powertrain

Make meaningful progress daily if you can, or at least 5 out of every 7 days. Even if that's just ordering parts and materials or sweeping up and prepping your work area for the next day. This is a long game.

David
 
I'm all for the ever-evolving nature of a project, and like most folks here, I will look forward to seeing it in action in any configuration.

My suggestions are simple:
- make sure you've got all you want out of your current setup before taking it down for the big change; go on a road trip, go camping, go to Dino's again, go to BB24, do (more) burnouts
- consider buying a K30 frame (or a straight K20 you can modify), and build the swap in parallel to your current running and driving truck, making this a body and suspension swap on a running LMM powertrain

Make meaningful progress daily if you can, or at least 5 out of every 7 days. Even if that's just ordering parts and materials or sweeping up and prepping your work area for the next day. This is a long game.

David
This has been exactly my thoughts sense I got the engine and about a year.

I'm a little bored with the 6.0 in the truck, it doesn't make the power any more I want it to. Heath and I have talked a lot about this, and I need to put about 3,000 into it to get kinda where I want to. The c10 frame needs some help, it needs to be boxed. If I could swing the room I would build a K30 frame for sure. If I start this swap, it would be next year and gather parts for a few months and prep the engine.

I also have the idea of putting a little into this engine and selling it for some profit and put that towards a supercharger. I think I could make about 500+ to the tire with that combo.
 
I'm all for the ever-evolving nature of a project, and like most folks here, I will look forward to seeing it in action in any configuration.

My suggestions are simple:
- make sure you've got all you want out of your current setup before taking it down for the big change; go on a road trip, go camping, go to Dino's again, go to BB24, do (more) burnouts
- consider buying a K30 frame (or a straight K20 you can modify), and build the swap in parallel to your current running and driving truck, making this a body and suspension swap on a running LMM powertrain

Make meaningful progress daily if you can, or at least 5 out of every 7 days. Even if that's just ordering parts and materials or sweeping up and prepping your work area for the next day. This is a long game.

David
Good suggestions there. I've been making sure I get at least one thing done every day which doesn't seem like much but after a couple of weeks, you realize a lot of progress has happened.
 
Here is something I'll add for your thought process..

Diesels obviously make huge torque and are excellent for efficiency and towing, especially before they restricted them with DPF and EGR and DEF fluid, but that's another story. Anyway, my point is this, the diesel will make way more low end torque, and it will tow better, and usually use less fuel for the same work if everything is correct, there is more energy in diesel fuel per gallon than a gasoline. So, if you are pulling a heavy trailer up a mountain pass, the diesel will no doubt outperform the gas engine with all the available torque.

However, if you are trying to accelerate, or you want an empty truck to feel fast, in general, the lighter gas engine with more HP will feel faster than the heavier diesel with more torque. Now, if you have a diesel with more HP, then it will feel faster, but that's pretty rare because HP is just a function of torque and RPM and below 5250 RPM torque is always higher on the dyno curve. It happens though, a brand new L5P DMax is 475 HP/975 TQ, and a brand new L8T is 401 HP/464 TQ, the diesel is faster in that application.

This is not a hard rule, just a general observation. My truck with 525 HP/600 TQ is usually faster than a DMax with over 1000 ft lbs in a drag race, been in several races like that and won every time. Now if you hook up a heavy trailer the diesel would beat me every time. Also, there are exceptions to this, diesel trucks running 9s in the quarter, and diesel dragsters going 6s. However, I think you'll find for the diesel to perform better in drag race, it will be more expensive than gas, and not even close, a lot more money. However, for the gas to perform better in a towing competition, it either won't do it or could be more expensive than the diesel, if that makes sense.

The reason I say this is because you need to decide what you want out of it, if you want gobs of bottom end torque and pulling capability, the diesel will be better.

If you want your light truck to be faster in a drag race and/or in the sand, the 6.0 will likely be faster, especially if you add boost.
 
Here is something I'll add for your thought process..

Diesels obviously make huge torque and are excellent for efficiency and towing, especially before they restricted them with DPF and EGR and DEF fluid, but that's another story. Anyway, my point is this, the diesel will make way more low end torque, and it will tow better, and usually use less fuel for the same work if everything is correct, there is more energy in diesel fuel per gallon than a gasoline. So, if you are pulling a heavy trailer up a mountain pass, the diesel will no doubt outperform the gas engine with all the available torque.

However, if you are trying to accelerate, or you want an empty truck to feel fast, in general, the lighter gas engine with more HP will feel faster than the heavier diesel with more torque. Now, if you have a diesel with more HP, then it will feel faster, but that's pretty rare because HP is just a function of torque and RPM and below 5250 RPM torque is always higher on the dyno curve. It happens though, a brand new L5P DMax is 475 HP/975 TQ, and a brand new L8T is 401 HP/464 TQ, the diesel is faster in that application.

This is not a hard rule, just a general observation. My truck with 525 HP/600 TQ is usually faster than a DMax with over 1000 ft lbs in a drag race, been in several races like that and won every time. Now if you hook up a heavy trailer the diesel would beat me every time. Also, there are exceptions to this, diesel trucks running 9s in the quarter, and diesel dragsters going 6s. However, I think you'll find for the diesel to perform better in drag race, it will be more expensive than gas, and not even close, a lot more money. However, for the gas to perform better in a towing competition, it either won't do it or could be more expensive than the diesel, if that makes sense.

The reason I say this is because you need to decide what you want out of it, if you want gobs of bottom end torque and pulling capability, the diesel will be better.

If you want your light truck to be faster in a drag race and/or in the sand, the 6.0 will likely be faster, especially if you add boost.
I think you are right, the truck won't be made for towing and I love the hole shot feeling of getting off the line quick. It sure is fun!

So far with the swap it would be boxing the frame,(needs to be anyway) D60 swap, and hydro boost.









I should just slap a M122 Supercharger off a Cadillac on it and be done for less then $3,000 and keep the truck driving and enjoying. Then wait for my new tow rig daily and enjoy the diesel in that.
 
All I’ll say is a 1000ftlbs of torque will break stuff with ridiculous ease. Especially when multiplied through gearing.

I’ll also say that a 1000ftlbs of torque in a 20psi boosted 4wd launch is better than any drug in the world.
I feel the need, the need for speed.

Tom Cruise Goose GIF by Top Gun
 
All I’ll say is a 1000ftlbs of torque will break stuff with ridiculous ease. Especially when multiplied through gearing.

I’ll also say that a 1000ftlbs of torque in a 20psi boosted 4wd launch is better than any drug in the world.
You know what feels better, beating that in a drag race with an NA 4WD launch with my BBC square.

With that said, I don't want to have a tow off or tug of war against the HD diesel though, "a man's got to know his limitations". ;)

You are right, you have to add more weight to take the torque without breaking. I almost regret adding my D60, because I don't think I would of broke the Dana 44 in the sand or dirt, and I added over 300 lbs of unsprung weight and some of that is also rotating mass up front. If I was a rock crawler, that would be a different story, you can break stuff easy when you have a lot of traction. Although I do have a TH400/NP205, and 1350 driveshafts everywhere. Those were needed, I broke the 3R CV 3 times before I finally upgraded.
 
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