CK5
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Thank you Wade for comment and the phone call to assure I had my head in the correct line. I would also like to thank Chris at ORD for the phone calls. :thumb:

Bump steer is something I did not want to skip on and wanted spot on.
 
Yes you are. :thumb:

Not sure what to do with the excess pan hard bracket above the rail though, If I should leave it or cut it. If I leave it, I will plate the back side and add ears going to the top of the rail.

Feels good to be making progress and actually getting something done. Next is to dial in the ride height and get the hoops going.
 
Cut it off even with the top of the frame. When you do another plate near that bracket, run the plate over it and weld closed. If no other bracket near, make one for it.
 
Was just brain storming and came up with just that. Didn't want to cut into those dimple dies, but it is what it is.
 
Speed holes it is.

Even though it took 5 hours to tack and cut that pan hard bar, I feel a big steep was done with learned.

Time for bed, yawning and need to be up early to catch back up at work.
 
The clock's ticking, but I know you can make it now that you've got some momentum going. Just try to stay healthy and rested. That way you will feel like getting out there and working on the truck when you have time. Nothing kills my enthusiasm like feeling too tired to do something I want to do.
 
The clock's ticking, but I know you can make it now that you've got some momentum going. Just try to stay healthy and rested. That way you will feel like getting out there and working on the truck when you have time. Nothing kills my enthusiasm like feeling too tired to do something I want to do.

I have that feeling so much it sucks! I have fallen asleep in the garage on a few occasions.


Thanks for the props guys.
 
Haven't came up with one yet need to mount the fenders with the inners and stuff the tires.

Hate to say it but all your measurements are invalid. You have to establish ride height before anything. Ride height is your baseline! Put your fenders and tires on and do the test before you weld anything. Read through gregs thread if you do not believe me.
 
Which test are you referring to? I don't believe I have jumped the gun on anything yet. The pan hard is the same length and angle as the drag link so it shouldn't matter?
 
Which test are you referring to? I don't believe I have jumped the gun on anything yet. The pan hard is the same length and angle as the drag link so it shouldn't matter?

yes but tire interference's matter. You think you have say 5" bump, but your fender says other wise. so then you end up with 3" bump and 11" droop. What your are doing is correct for panhard, but if your links are wrong angles you are out of luck.


I'm not saying you are doing it wrong, i'm just sayin put tires and fenders on and in gregs case shocks.

It is easy to design a suspension on paper, put it to the real world with interferences thats another story.

To me full stuff full lock it looks like the tire may hit the frame but you didn't give us those pictures so I do not know.


Also since ORD designed this kit they can tell you what angle is desired for the links at static ride height. I'd guess as close to parallel as possible.
 
I think he is going off the assumption that A, the mount kit is from Ord and designed to land at 4" lift and the brackets jig themselves to the axle and frame. And that B,
He centered the adjustment on the link ends so that caster can be tuned as long as he was at least close when he initially cut his links to length.
 
Yes you are correct, thought you were saying my test for bump steer was wrong. I want to final fit the engine cross member better and then I'll put fenders on with tires and mess with it a little more to get everything situated. I think we have the same idea, you just said it with better terminology.

I don't believe I will run into any problems, but you never know. The links do sit off the side of the C's, I think I will have plenty of tire clearance. I mainly took those pictures to see how far I could force the axle in articulation to create a bump steer situation. In the ORD instructions it says to set ride height 7 inches lower then bump height. I may shoot for 1.5+ inches more sense I have a bald set of metric 33's.

Sorry if this makes no sense, falling asleep but wanted to read your post.
 
I think he is going off the assumption that A, the mount kit is from Ord and designed to land at 4" lift and the brackets jig themselves to the axle and frame. And that B,
He centered the adjustment on the link ends so that caster can be tuned as long as he was at least close when he initially cut his links to length.

As of right now the axle is centered in the middle of the fender with 5 degrees of caster.
 
Yes you are correct, thought you were saying my test for bump steer was wrong. I want to final fit the engine cross member better and then I'll put fenders on with tires and mess with it a little more to get everything situated. I think we have the same idea, you just said it with better terminology.

I don't believe I will run into any problems, but you never know. The links do sit off the side of the C's, I think I will have plenty of tire clearance. I mainly took those pictures to see how far I could force the axle in articulation to create a bump steer situation. In the ORD instructions it says to set ride height 7 inches lower then bump height. I may shoot for 1.5+ inches more sense I have a bald set of metric 33's.

Sorry if this makes no sense, falling asleep but wanted to read your post.


Nope you are all good there, just making sure you take interference's into account. When you said you had no ride height that made me worry
 
Ok, glad we are on the same page now. Ride height will come soon once I get parts added on.

Here shortly I have a busy week, having my two nieces and nephew fly in for my sisters wedding on the 15th and my buddy's is the 16th. No truck time that weekend, but it is ok.


Off to bed, I can smell the coffee already waiting for me at 5:45. :doah:
 

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