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Was looking through my phone today and saw a flaw in the pan hard. It isn't at the same angle.


This will show it, it's weird unless I measure wrong which is possible then it will bump steer. What do you guys think?

panhard_zps13069624.jpg
 
I say just get it as close to parallel as possible. It could be the angle we're looking at it from anyway.
 
As you turn the wheels, at full articulation, they will not be perfectly parallel. You will not notice bump steer in that situation. Because you had better be going slow when it is like that.

You are looking for best possible aituation at ride hight for daily driving. The way you have it set up, you will not see anything noticeable as you wheel.
 
What about going through the desert at some speed?

The way the bracket is it's up maybe half inch or so.
IMG_20140126_173537_zpsf59093f5.jpg


Also, I'm curious what is the best way to measure the angle? My way was kind of wrong. I'm thinking a piece of flat steel across the tubes then put the angle finder on that?
 
I think you've got it straight. In the pic with the axle drooped down on one side, it looks like the knuckles are steered to the right slightly. That would be enough to make the angles off slightly, I would think.
 
Ride height will have to wait until this weekend.

I tried with my magnetic angle finder but it was going all over the place I think.

I'm not sure, I'm tired long day and I'm confusing myself. I think it's best to leave it alone tonight until I can get a clear head on it.
 
Yes, I have been trying to pay a bill for 20 minutes or so. Keep getting side tracked and just closed the window out for the 3rd time... :haha:
 
What about going through the desert at some speed?

The way the bracket is it's up maybe half inch or so.
IMG_20140126_173537_zpsf59093f5.jpg


Also, I'm curious what is the best way to measure the angle? My way was kind of wrong. I'm thinking a piece of flat steel across the tubes then put the angle finder on that?


That PS draglink heim looks almost maxed out for angularity..... Is this photo showing full droop on both sides? You might end up putting a bend in the draglink to keep that heim from binding. Be advised: comparing PHB & draglink angles gets pretty challenging once you start putting bends in them.

I ended up putting a bend in my draglink to get the clearance I needed. Doesn't take much to improve things.


Cycle the suspension! Turn the wheels (with tires installed)... Cycle again. One wheel up, one wheel down.... Cycle it! :deal:

Using the ORD kit saves you a LOT of trial end error, but you'll still need to confirm that you've got clearance everywhere you need it.


-G
 
That PS draglink heim looks almost maxed out for angularity..... Is this photo showing full droop on both sides? You might end up putting a bend in the draglink to keep that heim from binding. Be advised: comparing PHB & draglink angles gets pretty challenging once you start putting bends in them.



I ended up putting a bend in my draglink to get the clearance I needed. Doesn't take much to improve things.





Cycle the suspension! Turn the wheels (with tires installed)... Cycle again. One wheel up, one wheel down.... Cycle it! :deal:



Using the ORD kit saves you a LOT of trial end error, but you'll still need to confirm that you've got clearance everywhere you need it.





-G



I agree with Greg. I did tell you interferences matter :)
 
That PS draglink heim looks almost maxed out for angularity..... Is this photo showing full droop on both sides? You might end up putting a bend in the draglink to keep that heim from binding. Be advised: comparing PHB & draglink angles gets pretty challenging once you start putting bends in them.

I ended up putting a bend in my draglink to get the clearance I needed. Doesn't take much to improve things.


Cycle the suspension! Turn the wheels (with tires installed)... Cycle again. One wheel up, one wheel down.... Cycle it! :deal:

Using the ORD kit saves you a LOT of trial end error, but you'll still need to confirm that you've got clearance everywhere you need it.


-G

Haven't had a chance yet to set droop but I would venture to say it is close. This is a bit of a poor reply, I don't know yet and hope to get some garage time this weekend to check clearances and angles further.
 
What about going through the desert at some speed?

The way the bracket is it's up maybe half inch or so.
IMG_20140126_173537_zpsf59093f5.jpg


Also, I'm curious what is the best way to measure the angle? My way was kind of wrong. I'm thinking a piece of flat steel across the tubes then put the angle finder on that?

Sometimes it helps to take a break, but I gotta say that bent up dust shield behind the rotor is driving me nuts :whistle::haha:
 
It drives me nuts to, the axle was pushed around a bit before it went in. Another thing that drives me nuts is the cross over steering arms, it's slanted in to the drivers side, I think I have them on backwards... That will help out the heim.
 
Your arms are made of flat plate steel, with holes tapered in them.

The ball joints are angled in at ~10 degree IIRC, so machining the arms with a 10 degree angle is really important. Otherwise you have what you're fighting, even with a fairly low lift height. Check out ours, or any other arms that aren't bargain basement, and you'll see that they're machined at an angle to account for the angle of the ball joint axis in relation to the tube.
 
Bit confused on what you are saying so my arms are on backwards if I'm understanding you correctly.
 
I think he's saying they're pointed in on purpose to match the angle of the movement of the ball joints as you turn the steering wheel.
 
Nope.

Look at this pic below (from ORD website). See how the arm has been machined? That's what he's referring to. Your arm doesn't have that, which is causing that heim to be at such a sever angle.

RH%20D44%20Steering%20Arm.jpg
 

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