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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Another good comparison.

Angle of a tie rod end with a machined arm:

IMG_0500.jpg



And yours without the taper machined:

IMG_20140126_173537_zpsf59093f5.jpg
 
No, it's on the correct side. It just doesn't have the taper machined into it.
 
where'd those arms come from? not having the angle in em is pretty cheesy in this day and age...
 
Any of the companies SKY, WFO, ORD etc sell the arms with the correct angle milled into them. That dust shield distracted me. Good catch Chris :thumb:
 
ryoken said:
where'd those arms come from? not having the angle in em is pretty cheesy in this day and age...
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I got them off craigslist with the knuckles for I think 100 bucks.

andyblack said:
Time to order an arm from ORD then. I hope your credit card still hasn't reached it's limit yet. :haha:
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It isn't bad but isn't great, I have the room just curious if I absolutely have to.

MTBLAZER89 said:
Any of the companies SKY, WFO, ORD etc sell the arms with the correct angle milled into them. That dust shield distracted me. Good catch Chris :thumb:
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Yes I may end up doing it but don't want to if it isn't needed. That is why I take so many pictures for the little things I don't know hopefully you guys catch.
 
It looks like it will do for now anyways. Just keep it on there until you are ready to run it hard and then address it and buy a nicer arm. Im sure it will be fine until you droop it out, but for now put the money elsewhere to get the thing going :thumb:




Check the classifieds too.
 
Deuling said:
It looks like it will do for now anyways. Just keep it on there until you are ready to run it hard and then address it and buy a nicer arm. Im sure it will be fine until you droop it out, but for now put the money elsewhere to get the thing going :thumb:




Check the classifieds too.
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Nope. Sory Adam. Do it right from the beginning. The good arm may not have the same geometry in relation to bolt homes. Call ORD. Get the correct one on there before you weld eveything together.
 
ktmoutfront said:
Nope. Sory Adam. Do it right from the beginning. The good arm may not have the same geometry in relation to bolt homes. Call ORD. Get the correct one on there before you weld eveything together.
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I new that was coming as soon as I hit submit :haha:
 
Well poop on a stick... Guess I need some arms now. Would these be OK in someone else's application or should I chuck them in the trash?


Good catch guys.:thumb:
 
The only thing these arms have going for them is that they allow the bolt to travel through the arm and then catch the tie rod hole in the knuckle also. If you can get all the travel out if your shocks with these arms then they are fine. If not, and I suspect you can't, then you will need either a bent drag link or a arm with the "counter taper".
 
They are technically fine for someone without a bunch of travel. Ideally, you want the hiem or tie rod end to be in that neutral state exactly half way through your travel. If that makes sense.
 
So this comment is kind of totally unrelated but also fits.

As some of you know I'm in construction and float between extreme high end homes for rich and famous people and exterior condo complex renovations. Sort of two ends of the spectrum but I have this superintendent that catches me every time something goes a bit south when I try to save a dime on a 3 million dollar job.

His famous quote is "Goddamn there's nothing more expensive than going cheap is there lad" Of course he's a 45 year veteran of construction and always knows the right time to bust that one out.

In the world of building things once you start down a path you end up with some choices that just get made for you, you started a somewhat expensive path for this truck, now you have to continue on that path or compromise the project for lower cost parts. It may not be the steering arm per-say but read through this post a few times and let it sink in.

You're going to have to spend money now that you started in order to correctly get to the end of the path. This is not to say you can't be frugal and spend as little as possible but your still going to have to spend it.
 
y5mgisi said:
They are technically fine for someone without a bunch of travel. Ideally, you want the hiem or tie rod end to be in that neutral state exactly half way through your travel. If that makes sense.
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For a show rig or someone with stiff springs and less than 6" of lift they will be fine. Ideally you would want to go full high steer since you have to buy new arms
 
miniwally said:
So this comment is kind of totally unrelated but also fits.

As some of you know I'm in construction and float between extreme high end homes for rich and famous people and exterior condo complex renovations. Sort of two ends of the spectrum but I have this superintendent that catches me every time something goes a bit south when I try to save a dime on a 3 million dollar job.

His famous quote is "Goddamn there's nothing more expensive than going cheap is there lad" Of course he's a 45 year veteran of construction and always knows the right time to bust that one out.

In the world of building things once you start down a path you end up with some choices that just get made for you, you started a somewhat expensive path for this truck, now you have to continue on that path or compromise the project for lower cost parts. It may not be the steering arm per-say but read through this post a few times and let it sink in.

You're going to have to spend money now that you started in order to correctly get to the end of the path. This is not to say you can't be frugal and spend as little as possible but your still going to have to spend it.
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you are saying.:thumb:

jekquistk5 said:
For a show rig or someone with stiff springs and less than 6" of lift they will be fine. Ideally you would want to go full high steer since you have to buy new arms
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I had the same idea, can I reuse my tierod already built?
 
If you are going to do high steer I would definitely look into getting arms that you can put a bolt through the upper arm and normal tie rod arm (like what you have going on already on the pass side). As that's a lot of force on those 3 studs alone with high steer.
 
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