CK5
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Looks like it needs to be 1/2" higher.

No, now 1/4" lower.

Axle needs to be forward 1/4".

No. Now back 1/2".

Sheesh. Make up your mind. You're worse than a woman.

Just kidding. Looks good where it is. After you dent it a few times, you will start cutting. Thats where I am at now.
 
Hahaha you are funny... I have heard I'm like a women and can't make up my mind on this thing...

Got tired of having the link arm and stuff falling out so I'm tacking everything.
 
I feel like the real issue is that if you want to run 35's, they WILL require cutting. I guarantee it. Probably not much, but they will. Its easy to do it nicely if you are running wheel well trim. You just trim it back and leave a edge to fold over and re attach the trim. Looks stock, but now your tires will clear.
 
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Your bolts are too short... The ones holding your rod ends on... Good rule of thumb is it should have bolt sticking out half the thickness of the nut past the nut. Hope that makes sense. http://www.boltscience.com/pages/shortbolting.htm
 
I am assuming those are temporary. If not, they will be. I do that all the time to make disassembly easier durring the build process. Then nylocks and longer bolts go in. Grade 8 or F911.
 
I am assuming those are temporary. If not, they will be. I do that all the time to make disassembly easier durring the build process. Then nylocks and longer bolts go in. Grade 8 or F911.

I have been using grade 8 and all metal locking pinch nuts... Just put the grinder down at 8:45... I'm sure the neighbors will like that.
 
Closing up shop for tonight, I'm glad my brother in law and sister are so understanding. :haha:

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Can't forget my helper either, although I did do the brakes are her car today.
 
Yes they can ask Wade...:haha: major brain fart and got way confused which joints go on either side of a link.
 
When I put my 4" springs on years ago, I wrote down the distance I measured between the center of the hub and the bottom of the fender right above it and wrote the measurements down. It was 27 1/4" in the front and about 25" in the rear.
 
When I put my 4" springs on years ago, I wrote down the distance I measured between the center of the hub and the bottom of the fender right above it and wrote the measurements down. It was 27 1/4" in the front and about 25" in the rear.

:bow: what size tire was this and wheel? Thanks Andy.:thumb:




Another beer I owe.... I must be up to a couple kegs by now. BB14 is going to be fun.:haha:
 
wouldn't matter what size tire with that measurement, could be 40's or 33's depending on willingnees to hack........
 
Yeah that's why I measured from the hub to a fixed point and not from the ground. I didn't cut the part of the fender I measured from either, so it should be the same with any '73-'87('91).
 
Keep in mind that measurements from the axle to the body are purely for looks and don't say anything about suspension height. Condition of body mounts, body lift, body alignment, and probably the most relevant are the tolerances at the frame are amplified at the edges of the body because the frame is so narrow compared to the body.

Measuring for suspension height really needs to be done from axle to frame. Our rule of thumb is that from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame is about 8-8.5" on a stock height truck.
 
Very good point, both will be taken Into consideration.

Can I set the ride height for the 33's then when I want 35's adjust the coil over height to fit them?

Once I set ride height the coil over will compress with the actual weight on it correct? How much?
 
My measurement was with all the weight on the springs. I was just giving you an idea of how high a 4" spring lift was. I'm sure your setup will be different just like Chris said.
 

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