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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Unfortunately I can't afford tires and the way this build is going they will be dry and cracked by the time it's done and be a waste.


What you are saying is I should lower the frame say a inch or so?
 
I meant that an inch isn't going to matter much for tire clearance in your situation. The usual rules that the leaf sprung guys use don't really apply, you have twice as much bump travel as most leaf sprung trucks but the axle path is better, the axle doesn't move back as it compresses like most leaves do.

My point is that unless you lift it a lot more, the tire is going to get inside the wheel well. From there, tire clearance gets down to little details like tire/wheel width, backspacing, etc. and you can only check those with the 35's that you think you might end up with.

Also keep in mind that there is a bit of wiggle room in ride height by adjusting the spanners on the shock, so don't fret any of it too bad.
 
Perfect that is what I wanted to hear, I thought you could turn the coil overs up a tad and not mess anything up. I need to read the coil over bible to further educate myself on those.


I lowered the frame a little bit and I like this a lot more. I think it will fit in the garage a lot better.

IMG_20140326_161317_zps76a3a775.jpg
 
Ben, you are gonna have bump stops. When you get to buying tires, just set the bump (or bump pad) length to stop it before it hits fender. Issue solved. You have links and can test every angle of travel possible very very easily.

When I do craigs for final travel, im going to cycle suspension and stuff the tires up as high as they possibly will go, and then build the final shock mounts around those specs, and use the rest of the shock travel for droop. And set limit straps and bumps accordingly :waytogo:
 
The shock hoops are going to be a pain... Chris do you have any detailed pics? Would very much appreciate a full visual with the ac and factory booster and master cylinder.

this is in the middle of the shock shaft for ride height.
IMG_20140326_191644_zpsf70f9f53.jpg


I may have to limit the bump travel and do more droop on the axle to have it clear things.

IMG_20140326_191625_zps92ed3fcc.jpg


I used the paint sticks and centered the axle and was able to open the door perfectly. I was amazed how well the axle will move just turning the bar (control arm)

Do the shock tabs have to be on the fender side of the hoop or can they be on the engine side? Does it really matter?
 
With as "low" as you have it, yes. This suspension is going to have more droop than compression. As for the tabs, I would imagine myself placing them on the engine side. I like the way it would stress the hoop better than having them outside.
 
You think so I got a lot of room for bump travel. I want to jack the axle up until it hits something then collapse the shock and see where it puts me at next.


This suspension stuff is a pain in the ass but man is it fun. :woot: Certain things have made me smile and feel a sense of accomplishment even though they are just minor.
 
It was brought to my attention and asked what tires I want to use... If these come out they are it.


All-New-BFGoodrich-All-Terrain-KO2--3--sidewall.jpg


All-New-BFGoodrich-All-Terrain-KO2--2--top-three-quarter.jpg


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Great road manors for the mall crawler and Arizona loves a AT tire.
 
Messed with the truck a little tonight just wasn't feeling it.

IMG_20140327_172814_zps0a79be78.jpg


Stupid question but is this why it's called cross over?:doah:

I measured the distance of the top of the axle tube to the frame and it's 11 1/4
 
Go ahead it won't hurt my feelings at this point.



I noticed when I cycled the drivers side up it pushed the axle towards the cab about a inch, is this something to be considered about? Why did it do this?
 
Babaganoosh said:
Go ahead it won't hurt my feelings at this point.



I noticed when I cycled the drivers side up it pushed the axle towards the cab about a inch, is this something to be considered about? Why did it do this?
Click to expand...


Anything over parallel (0 or 90degrees depending on how you look at it) the axles arc will be traveling back towards the fender.
 
jekquistk5 said:
Anything over parallel (0 or 90degrees depending on how you look at it) the axles arc will be traveling back towards the fender.
Click to expand...

So the caster angle is what is causing it to go back? the top links are longer then the bottom links. I would assume I can't do anything about this?
 
Babaganoosh said:
So the caster angle is what is causing it to go back? the top links are longer then the bottom links. I would assume I can't do anything about this?
Click to expand...

Kind of but not really. The only way your axle would stay in the same location horizontally is if your links shrunk or lengthened on bump and droop and that just is not possible :)


I'll try to post a 4 link screen shot tomorrow when I'm not 4 beers in :)
 
Hmmmmm, oh well. Not much I can do on that. May have to push the axle a little forward though so it doesn't eat the fender.
 
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