What do you mean by that? I remeasured I can get 34% bump
Just being curious but what are your figures on the Jimmy?
Just being curious but what are your figures on the Jimmy?
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
If I would have done a tie rod end on the pitman arm I would have been fine. 
Also I have a inch and 3/4 of room before these tires hit the fender... If I move the axle a inch forward it will clear the nut... I think it's my best bet.
Also I have a inch and 3/4 of room before these tires hit the fender... If I move the axle a inch forward it will clear the nut... I think it's my best bet.
A g out? Running a trail at some speed and you hit something that compresses the suspension without droop first. So the 34% is the only control you have.
Hmmm gotcha, going to try a few things and see what I can come up with. If I get smaller safety washers I can get a little extra to.
Another option I have is to move the drag link on top of the pitman arm but this would require cutting a piece of the frame out and welding in a piece of tube for the nut to pass through the frame. I have left over material and a welder. 
Post 25. same basic thing
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/1056529-89-suburban-desert-rig-build.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/1056529-89-suburban-desert-rig-build.html
Picture of said issue?
Here is the problem because of the safety washers on the heim it hangs down a few inches off the pitman arm. If I was flip it over on top of the pitman arm it hits the frame. I was thinking notching the frame and adding a piece of tube into the notch to allow the bolt to pass through safely.
It would give me that 40% bump travel needed If I flipped and notched the frame.
It would give me that 40% bump travel needed If I flipped and notched the frame.
Ok, talked to Wade a little and he made a suggestion. I had thought about using these spacers before but it's a 7/8th's heim down to a 3/4 bolt and these are for the 3/4 heim's on the tie rod but they will work good enough to see this. These should also be tall enough for checking the angle during droop but I have to chain the frame and lift up with the cherry picker to do that.
That is 5 inches up with a 1/8th of a inch between the nut.
That is 36% bump travel. We are slowly getting around to the magic number.
Forgot to mention never mind the 2x6. My jack is on the fritz and it isn't tall enough anymore.
That is 5 inches up with a 1/8th of a inch between the nut.
That is 36% bump travel. We are slowly getting around to the magic number.
Forgot to mention never mind the 2x6. My jack is on the fritz and it isn't tall enough anymore.
Go full droop to be sure it dose not bind.
This is full droop, was kind of scary but everything worked safely.
The heim looked a little scary at this angle and the wheel turned fine either way. I took the heim off to make sure and it still had a little wiggle room. The nut was tight when I tested this just forgot to take a pic before I started taking it apart.
My Brother in law went holy CHIT!!
For accurate measure this is ride height.
The heim looked a little scary at this angle and the wheel turned fine either way. I took the heim off to make sure and it still had a little wiggle room. The nut was tight when I tested this just forgot to take a pic before I started taking it apart.
My Brother in law went holy CHIT!!
For accurate measure this is ride height.
I didn't realize how short the links are... Now I understand the tire shoving back thing...
I think I figured a way around that. Just make the links the same length and rotate the axle on the brackets and weld them in.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think that will work.
I still want more bump travel though I think I may notch the frame anyway and run the drag link on top of the pitman arm.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think that will work.
I still want more bump travel though I think I may notch the frame anyway and run the drag link on top of the pitman arm.
Run a tie rod end?
Would be cheaper If I notched the frame. I wouldn't need a tie rod end or a new pitman arm. And I might have to cut the threaded end off the drag link to thread the tie rod end in.
That would also alter your drag link angle a bunch. Will it be too far off and cause bump steer?
I could fix the angle by moving the pan hard up on the frame. I got 2 inches of wiggle room on it, I think in the long run it would be worth it for exchange of some work.
I think Greg did the same for the exact reason. I will have to see how he did his.
Hopefully Greg doesn't mind me sharing some of his pics. My build isn't up to par with his but I like what he did here.
But doing this would put the heim's of the drag link at even further of a angle on the passenger side... Which could be fixed by a bent drag link.... Ahhhh decisions decisions, these linked builds are not cheap.
I think Greg did the same for the exact reason. I will have to see how he did his.
Hopefully Greg doesn't mind me sharing some of his pics. My build isn't up to par with his but I like what he did here.
But doing this would put the heim's of the drag link at even further of a angle on the passenger side... Which could be fixed by a bent drag link.... Ahhhh decisions decisions, these linked builds are not cheap.
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Trying not to clutter up the last post...
ORD has a bent drag link for $95, I would need weld in bungs for heims and I can reuse mine. This sounds like a good idea to get the heims to last at a good angle. Also sense I cut the drag link short and it has a 1/8th of a inch off the steering stops with the tie rod adjusted correctly.
With this option I can notch the frame and get the 40/60 with the heim on top of the pitman arm. In case anyone is wondering I have the ORD high clearance arm with I believe 2.5 inch drop.
The drag link should be maybe at most a half inch longer then what I have which would affect my pan hard, I might be able to space the bungs out a little further on the bar to make up for it.
Sigh... I hate having to buy or change stuff that was already made and should have "worked"
ORD has a bent drag link for $95, I would need weld in bungs for heims and I can reuse mine. This sounds like a good idea to get the heims to last at a good angle. Also sense I cut the drag link short and it has a 1/8th of a inch off the steering stops with the tie rod adjusted correctly.
With this option I can notch the frame and get the 40/60 with the heim on top of the pitman arm. In case anyone is wondering I have the ORD high clearance arm with I believe 2.5 inch drop.
The drag link should be maybe at most a half inch longer then what I have which would affect my pan hard, I might be able to space the bungs out a little further on the bar to make up for it.
Sigh... I hate having to buy or change stuff that was already made and should have "worked"
As my daughter would say. Wait, what?
That's a dropped pitman arm? Put the stock drop on it.
That's a dropped pitman arm? Put the stock drop on it.
ORD recommended the dropped arm with their 4 link setup. It has 1.5 inches of drop. Maybe the 2wd frames are the difference we are looking at.
Do they make a factory drop pitman arm for a heim? Dang how many odd crooked combinations can we come up with to get this.
Do they make a factory drop pitman arm for a heim? Dang how many odd crooked combinations can we come up with to get this.
