Whats funny is I don't use one at work, I just thought it would be neat to put one together that is off the wall and way out of ordinary for a truck like this.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Whats funny is I don't use one at work, I just thought it would be neat to put one together that is off the wall and way out of ordinary for a truck like this.
I really don't mean to sound defensive, I'm not at all. But if you want to document what you have, what's in your calculator now isn't it.
You should re-measure all of that. What's your caster set at? The axle side mounting points should be pretty close to right on top of each other, they definitely aren't in the calculator. And the lower link being almost 20" from the ground at the axle side, I don't think my Blazer on 42's is that far from the ground. The lower link should be pretty close to inline with the axle tube centerline.
You also have the side/side separation of the links at the axle at 41.5", IIRC the ball joints center/center on a 10 bolt is ~53" (going off of memory but that's close). For that to be right, the links would need to be only 6-1/4" from ball joint center, this picture is from our project Suburban with a GM D44, your same frame brackets and a 4" lift height. I would measure again.
Caster is set at 5 degrees. Sorry forgot to answer this.
Seems my guide to measuring was completely off... WellI'm at a loss of words on this one.
All of this applies to a front 4 link:
The X is a measurement from the center of axle tube (looking from the side) to whatever it's asking for.
The Y is 1/2 of the separation at the frame (bird's eye view). The easier way to look at this is to measure from center of joint to center of joint side/side on the frame/axle and then divide by 2.
The Z is a measurement from ground to center of joint.
Hopefully that makes some sense.
It does a bit, I think for now I should just keep trying to build. The calculator Is very confusing, I thought i had it but not now!
Pretty disappointed in the outcome of this but what can you do?
Pretty disappointed in the outcome of this but what can you do?
My head hurts
carry on
carry on
This ^^^^
Sorry if I do not remember correctly, but wasnt' the whole buying a pre designed kit to make it easier on you so you just weld it in and go? Not to over think it.
Also I have seen some trucks that had perfect 4 link calc numbers that road and handled like absolute garbage. Numbers on paper are not everything.
Also I have seen some trucks that had perfect 4 link calc numbers that road and handled like absolute garbage. Numbers on paper are not everything.
The reason I ran the calculator was to learn.
I wasn't checking ORD work and if I was I wouldn't have had the stuff welded in.
I wasn't checking ORD work and if I was I wouldn't have had the stuff welded in.
Ok, enough Ben bashing. He has work to do. Walk away from the calculator and keep making progress. BB15 is not that far off.
maybe it's constructed criticism... Progress hopefully this weekend
I hope so but I might die making progress. It was 113 today with 20% humidity.
So it's a dry heat...what's the issue? 
Dry heat wet heat same thing! I overly swet bad and hav e proems with heat exhaustion. But that's besides the point i need to make progress.
77 here 
Hey now that isn't very nice, how is that snow ?
I can put more clothes on, I can only take so much off....
Martin
Martin
I know this might come to a surprise to some people but it's been 3 years sense I turned the first bolt to build this truck. I guess you could call this a 3 year SAS. After all these years I still enjoy building it, some days it gets old especially when I run into expensive problems.
Didn't get a lot done but got some. I Moved the pan hard over on the frame to clear the front diff under bump travel, cut the tube pieces I have for the limiting straps, then found out my steering shafts hit the bump stops... Looks like I need to get a double u joint steering shaft with support bearing. ORD lists one for 350 bucks, might go that route but would like something cheaper if possible.
After all these years I still enjoy building it, some days it gets old especially when I run into expensive problems.Didn't get a lot done but got some. I Moved the pan hard over on the frame to clear the front diff under bump travel, cut the tube pieces I have for the limiting straps, then found out my steering shafts hit the bump stops... Looks like I need to get a double u joint steering shaft with support bearing. ORD lists one for 350 bucks, might go that route but would like something cheaper if possible.
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