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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

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What Wade said find a place and out it there. If it didn't have a fan yes right out in front. I usually end up putting those on top of the wheel well.
 
Id totally do that. (if I had a rear mounted rad) Id make one wider and lower profiled though.

I want to build one to put on bretts buggy actually.
 
I'm having a hard time buying that there is such a reduction in flow in your radiator cooler that your F'ing Tranny's because of that.

When you ran the cooler doosh through it and it returned out of the cooler that tells me you have flow. Those cans have pressure but not a whole ton of pressure so I would think that the transmission would be moving fluid through there enough. I don't see how a "babied" transmission blows the rear sprag and shows signs of heat.

I'm still on the band wagon that something is off. I'm all for eliminating the current cooler and installing a new one, but I wouldn't be standing around bummed cause it's a cooler issue but at the same time patting yourself on the back that you figured this out.

Sorry I say something is still wrong. Prove me wrong.
 
I agree with miniwally. This is why I said "I told you so". Been telling Ben it is something external starting the issue with the internals.

I was under the impression from the posts that you found a plugged line. If it flowed 50% or so, it should not be an issue.

But something is still wrong.
 
I'm almost convinced to bypass the radiator and run it straight to that thermo controlled cooler.
I would much prefer to run it in the grille then under the truck.
 
I haven't used the radiator cooler in years. I use an external with a fan controlled by a temperature switch. Sure, the tranny runs colder in the winter but it's been running fine for 8 years or so. Granted it's behind an anemic 350, but still.
 
mrk5 said:
I haven't used the radiator cooler in years. I use an external with a fan controlled by a temperature switch. Sure, the tranny runs colder in the winter but it's been running fine for 8 years or so. Granted it's behind an anemic 350, but still.
Click to expand...

Is Ben planning on ever seeing winter with this truck? :dunno:
 
ktmoutfront said:
I agree with miniwally. This is why I said "I told you so". Been telling Ben it is something external starting the issue with the internals.

I was under the impression from the posts that you found a plugged line. If it flowed 50% or so, it should not be an issue.

But something is still wrong.
Click to expand...

Right,

I know that when you start pushing the limits of a transmission especially in the cooling dept. you up-size the lines and coolers for less restriction. I have -8 lines and two coolers on my buggy. I seriously doubt in this case you must have larger lines and low restriction coolers.

One important note that disproves me is that I know serious racers run a filter near the transmission and before fluid gets to the coolers to keep the coolers from getting full of broken transmission. Maybe you have something in that cooler that is causing this?

I don't know how the electric side of a 4L60/70 works but I still say you need to be looking there.
 
Just got off the phone with the builder he really thinks the radiator is plugged. Same explosion two times in a row.

I'm going to try to bring the truck to him and install the trans and test it out with him.
 
If the back end of the trans is black and blue from heat damage I would say you have a loss of lube or restricted cooler flow. Just the loss of a sprag would point to an abuse situation, rocking back and forth while stuck or lifting throttle hard in first during a high rpm wheel spin are two such scenarios. You can have cooler flow and still have a restricted cooler, flow should be at least a quart every thirty seconds in gear. If you suspect radiator cooler clogging by all means go around it and run your cooler set up as a stand alone. I would also tell you to remove the cooler lines from the case and check there isn't some kind of plug or paper, insect etc in there. Blow through the case fitting holes with compressed air, should blow free and easy. Make sure your torque converter is functioning and not slipping, this will add heat and diminish cooler flow.
 
Greg Ducato said:
If the back end of the trans is black and blue from heat damage I would say you have a loss of lube or restricted cooler flow. Just the loss of a sprag would point to an abuse situation, rocking back and forth while stuck or lifting throttle hard in first during a high rpm wheel spin are two such scenarios. You can have cooler flow and still have a restricted cooler, flow should be at least a quart every thirty seconds in gear. If you suspect radiator cooler clogging by all means go around it and run your cooler set up as a stand alone. I would also tell you to remove the cooler lines from the case and check there isn't some kind of plug or paper, insect etc in there. Blow through the case fitting holes with compressed air, should blow free and easy. Make sure your torque converter is functioning and not slipping, this will add heat and diminish cooler flow.
Click to expand...

Very good points Greg, they also suggested run it for 30 seconds and see if it's restricted.

Thanks for the post.
 
Greg Ducato said:
If the back end of the trans is black and blue from heat damage I would say you have a loss of lube or restricted cooler flow. Just the loss of a sprag would point to an abuse situation, rocking back and forth while stuck or lifting throttle hard in first during a high rpm wheel spin are two such scenarios. You can have cooler flow and still have a restricted cooler, flow should be at least a quart every thirty seconds in gear. If you suspect radiator cooler clogging by all means go around it and run your cooler set up as a stand alone. I would also tell you to remove the cooler lines from the case and check there isn't some kind of plug or paper, insect etc in there. Blow through the case fitting holes with compressed air, should blow free and easy. Make sure your torque converter is functioning and not slipping, this will add heat and diminish cooler flow.
Click to expand...
Greg,
Could he have programming or electrical issue?
 
Not to cause lack of cooler flow unless the converter is not locking up by virtue of tune or fault in electronics. It should be easy to tell if the converter clutch is being applied at the same rate of computer request with a scan tool (not a code reader). There could also be a mechanical issue in the pump or TCC solenoid, valve body, pwm solenoid that can cause converter slippage.
 
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