Wasn't thinking if I did solid round bar 3/8 or 1/2 but it does sound heavy. I'll probably do 3/4 hrew and pay a shop to do the one bend in it.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Going to bump this to see if anyone else has ideas
@blazinzuk @ktmoutfront @jekquistk5 @Bent77 and the rest of you I forgot. Oh yeah and old man @6872xtc because he's got the skills.
@F.S.F.W cause his is long bedish and is working on interior.
@blazinzuk @ktmoutfront @jekquistk5 @Bent77 and the rest of you I forgot. Oh yeah and old man @6872xtc because he's got the skills.
@F.S.F.W cause his is long bedish and is working on interior.
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3/4 or 1"
I'd do 1" unless your gonna cover it all with sheet metal so the frame isn't exposed then just do 1" square.
You can build out of conduit. Galvanized won't kill you. Well it can but its very rare At the very worst you get flu like symptoms, also I use it as a good excuse to down chocolate milk. Before and after cause the calcium in milk helps. Oh also during and most of that day. I like chocolate milk.
But 1" is what I would use.
I'd do 1" unless your gonna cover it all with sheet metal so the frame isn't exposed then just do 1" square.
You can build out of conduit. Galvanized won't kill you. Well it can but its very rare At the very worst you get flu like symptoms, also I use it as a good excuse to down chocolate milk. Before and after cause the calcium in milk helps. Oh also during and most of that day. I like chocolate milk.
But 1" is what I would use.
Plan on how you will get behind it to swap out broken switches and stuff in the future. If the sides are left open, no big deal. I personally don't like to see the wiring, so I would add side panels.
Definitely will have side panels, inside is going to be the ecm, fuse block, aux fuse block and the stereo amp.
How are you going to get air for cooling of the ECM and amp? Have you insulated the trans tunnel very well to keep heat away? I would be concerned about not having airflow and the floor temperature radiating a bunch of heat up into the console.
I would make all of the panels bolt on as easy as possible. Either threaded inserts, or tap threads into the structure, or tabs. At least do some of the panels like this, the top probably won't get taken off much.
I would make all of the panels bolt on as easy as possible. Either threaded inserts, or tap threads into the structure, or tabs. At least do some of the panels like this, the top probably won't get taken off much.
I have thought about this not really concerned about the ECM sense the factory had it under the hood, the amp will probably need something though I think.
No progress other then I bought a amazon switch panel and cup holders... Went to get the truck over the weekend and my brother left for California with the only set of keys for a week. Trying to prep the truck for this car show.
After all the truck is a C10 but it might look a little out of place.
Time to make some spare keys!!!!
It has never been a issue until now but yes...Time to make some spare keys!!!!
Switch panel came in the mail.
I like the simple approach to that.
But I wanted to suggest earlier that I think that if you had flat strap bent into angle , it would have more of a round corner.
You can buy stuff like this at a hardware store, but it's only 3/4" by 3/4". And it's galvanized, so you would want to grind a little away to weld joints.
But I wanted to suggest earlier that I think that if you had flat strap bent into angle , it would have more of a round corner.
You can buy stuff like this at a hardware store, but it's only 3/4" by 3/4". And it's galvanized, so you would want to grind a little away to weld joints.
Yes that is the plan, kind of changing up the design in my head, think the top will be square tube and recess the top plates.
Just think it out and build 90% of it with sheet only, no structure.
make 1" bends on the sheet and use screws to hold it all together. The top will hold the sides, the sides hold up the top.
I bet you only need a couple brackets at the floor and maybe a select hoop type thing near the change from horizontal to sloping.
make 1" bends on the sheet and use screws to hold it all together. The top will hold the sides, the sides hold up the top.
I bet you only need a couple brackets at the floor and maybe a select hoop type thing near the change from horizontal to sloping.
Never thought about doing it like that, I will have to put more thought into it like you mention.
I agree with miniwally, and angle iron shouldn't be anywhere near your build unless are using it to make a homemade metal brake to bend the console up using sheetmetal.
It will all get covered up anyway with bling from @Deuling eventually, just looking to build it out of structure and inside to be able to mount my ecm, fuses and everything else.
I still wouldn't use angle, it just goes against your build quality, your truck is too nice for angle, some sort of small round tubing, even small square tube, is better than angle. Leave the angle iron for small trailers and carts. You can use thinner wall and still have better strength and aesthetics than the angle. You won't be using much so the cost isn't really an issue.
I like the idea of having a simple rear bracket and inner vertical hoop for the middle, and the entire sheetmetal shell bolts to that (hopefully aluminum). You could make it out of cardboard to get the floor contours correct, and ship it to Adam to get an aluminum one back with fancy beadrolling and "dimplage".
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I see what you mean, it won't be much but a little, It will be easy to work with and my tool selection is a little limited to what I can do.
Looks like this weekend is shot, I have to work Saturday and most likely Sunday now.
