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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Babaganoosh said:
No golf cart race car here.

Not to sound mean or anything but you guys know what a class 8 truck is right? I know of a few that does.
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A quick google image search for a class 8 desert truck yields pretty quick results. However, your truck don't look like that. No offense. If I'm not mistaken most are running beams or IFS, but then again I'm dumb to the desert scene. You got a long way to go to make your truck a Class 8 truck that you could drive on the street. A quicker route to a Street driveable Class 8 truck is buying a used one and adding stuff needed back to it to make it legal for the road.

I'm along with the rest to say keep the truck useable as is out of the racing game. Use the truck more than once a year and enjoy it.
 
beags86 said:
This year it's class 8.. then next year it something alittle faster... More competitive... It's a rabbit hole man... That what we are telling you....
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Honestly it would only ever be a class 8 cause then I can't do what I ultimately want to do with it. I'm pretty persistent on that and would not ever build it for anything else.

A class 8 could be driven and honestly I don't have to do much work that I'm already not planning. Most of the safety requirements I already planned for anyway. I would just have to rework my fuel system a little and slap a number on and it's race ready.
 
Class 8 is the same as class 1450 with the exception that class 8 requires full factory frame and 1450 can be back halted. That being said most class 8 trucks are still ifs trucks (beams and a arms). However there are still some solid axle class 8 rigs.

I think your maybe a little further away from being race ready for class 8 then what your thinking. Just off my head I know you would need...
Cage
Linked rear (to be competitive,not necessity)
Harnesses
Helmet
Fresh air pumper
Jack
Fuel cell
All proper lights
Radio communications
GPS
First aide kit and safety equiptment
Race suit
Take out all the glass

Some of that stuff on that list takes either time or money or both.

Risk vs reward
What does racing your current truck reward you with and is it worth it?

Is it worth it to put the time and money into making your current truck be able to race a class 8 race that your going to have to compete against linked and ifs trucks and not be competitive but your in it only for fun of driving your truck.

If that’s your goal I see nothing wrong with that if that’s what you really want to do, but to add to it I would have to say are you also okay with doing all of that work and then rolling the truck in a race and crushing the cab and having to cut that one all off your cage and find a new cab to swap on?

Or

Enjoy your truck for what it is. pick up a cab of another truck and start building a 1450/ class8 specific truck. Knowing that it will be several years before a new build will see dirt or a starting line, but you have a truck to wheel in the mean time during the new build.

P.s. I know you’ve already asked me about lowering your ride height before, but I’ll say it again. You can’t lower your truck without sacrificing up travel. Your diff hitting is your current limiting factor. That needs taken care off before your truck could be lowered... beams would take care of that issue. While you were doing the beam swap it would be a good time to ditch that 4l60 and transfer case combo for a 2wd th400 :saweet:
 
Babaganoosh said:
Honestly it would only ever be a class 8 cause then I can't do what I ultimately want to do with it. I'm pretty persistent on that and would not ever build it for anything else.

A class 8 could be driven and honestly I don't have to do much work that I'm already not planning. Most of the safety requirements I already planned for anyway. I would just have to rework my fuel system a little and slap a number on and it's race ready.
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Its all fun and games until you roll your Dad's truck

Let that sink in
 
Everyone crashes in racing at some point. You are gonna bin your truck. That's why you need to pick a throw away vehicle.
There's competitive desert racing in BITD that's a ton cheaper to get into if you're looking to race.
http://bitd.com/
 
I never thought this idea of racing would take off so much in here... That's exactly what it is is a idea. Not saying I'm going to do it or not but wanted to look hard into and see my options.
 
Hey Ben, where are you at for full bump? Usually the limiting factor is the diff hitting the crossmember so there are some games to be played to get a little more bump. Going with a Different pan like the Tilden one, with a small block crossmember can gain about 3/4" of height. From there grinding the top of the diff or reworking the crossmember to gain a little more room. Or you could raise the engine to where the crossmember could be straight across.
These are from the AlaskanAlabama Army truck to show full bump:

akabtruck1.jpg
akabtruck2.jpg
 
Rugby_7 said:
Hey Ben, where are you at for full bump? Usually the limiting factor is the diff hitting the crossmember so there are some games to be played to get a little more bump. Going with a Different pan like the Tilden one, with a small block crossmember can gain about 3/4" of height. From there grinding the top of the diff or reworking the crossmember to gain a little more room. Or you could raise the engine to where the crossmember could be straight across.
These are from the AlaskanAlabama Army truck to show full bump:

View attachment 291699
View attachment 291700
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The steering is a qtr inch below the crank pulley, the frame is probably limiting. The engine is pushed up a inch and a half from stock. I'm running your small block cross member with a truck pan for a quick reference.

20170703_074538.jpg
 
You can put a bend in the draglink and panhard bar to get them out of the way of the stuff above them. Really the big deal is that if there is more than 1/2" (or maybe even 1/4") between the top of the diff and the crossmember, you have room to improve. You could play around with the idea of having some shock travel available when the bumps are buried so you can get a little more 1 wheel bump travel.
You have barely scratched the surface of what's possible with your combo. Link the rear, optimize the front bump travel around what you have and drive it. Maybe lower the ride height a little in combination with all this. Adding a bypass shock will help you make the most of the wheel travel you have too. You're a long way from needing any radical moves on the front suspension.
/Stephen's truck counseling service off/
 
Stephen said:
You can put a bend in the draglink and panhard bar to get them out of the way of the stuff above them. Really the big deal is that if there is more than 1/2" (or maybe even 1/4") between the top of the diff and the crossmember, you have room to improve. You could play around with the idea of having some shock travel available when the bumps are buried so you can get a little more 1 wheel bump travel.
You have barely scratched the surface of what's possible with your combo. Link the rear, optimize the front bump travel around what you have and drive it. Maybe lower the ride height a little in combination with all this. Adding a bypass shock will help you make the most of the wheel travel you have too. You're a long way from needing any radical moves on the front suspension.
/Stephen's truck counseling service off/
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Yeah but what does this guy kno! ...
 
Fastest way to make a million dollars when racing..... is to start with two. Then you will have one really fast.

Fastest way to kill your truck is to build a race truck out of it.
 
Stephen said:
You can put a bend in the draglink and panhard bar to get them out of the way of the stuff above them. Really the big deal is that if there is more than 1/2" (or maybe even 1/4") between the top of the diff and the crossmember, you have room to improve. You could play around with the idea of having some shock travel available when the bumps are buried so you can get a little more 1 wheel bump travel.
You have barely scratched the surface of what's possible with your combo. Link the rear, optimize the front bump travel around what you have and drive it. Maybe lower the ride height a little in combination with all this. Adding a bypass shock will help you make the most of the wheel travel you have too. You're a long way from needing any radical moves on the front suspension.
/Stephen's truck counseling service off/
Click to expand...
Stephen, I would like to call you on this sometime and discuss what we could do, I have some maintenance items I would like to order as well.
 
5th page in, truck hasn't been started or moved sense December 8th weekend didn't even disconnect the 4 year old optima...

It did this
 
Babaganoosh said:
5th page in, truck hasn't been started or moved sense December 8th weekend didn't even disconnect the 4 year old optima...

It did this
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Is the 5th page some kind of cryptic clue?

How about your lowering plans?
 
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