Got rear lights! Soon I'll be able to legally drive it around.
Still need to sort this mess out.
Still need to sort this mess out.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Thinking about scheduling a dyno appointment in 1 month. That should give me the time to finish the wiring and get it ready.
This will give me 1 month of driving time to get it prepped for moab.
This will give me 1 month of driving time to get it prepped for moab.
It runs again, getting close! Just need to figure out battery cables and circuit breaker or main fuse.
I really wish someone created a circuit breaker that attached to a top post that you could run a battery cable off of.
I really wish someone created a circuit breaker that attached to a top post that you could run a battery cable off of.
Kudos for getting it running again!
I wouldn't want a fuse or breaker in a battery cable, personally. Seems like a potential failure. Using the electrical system in hot conditions would heat it up. Would this make it more susceptible to opening the circuit? Hot starter in a hot engine compartment with a hot cable from under hood temperature, then crank the engine and pop the breaker or fuse. Unless it is so large that something shorting out won't open the circuit. And I have seen one bad connection keep something from cranking over.
Just my Perspective.
I wouldn't want a fuse or breaker in a battery cable, personally. Seems like a potential failure. Using the electrical system in hot conditions would heat it up. Would this make it more susceptible to opening the circuit? Hot starter in a hot engine compartment with a hot cable from under hood temperature, then crank the engine and pop the breaker or fuse. Unless it is so large that something shorting out won't open the circuit. And I have seen one bad connection keep something from cranking over.
Just my Perspective.
Was thinking a 150 amp circuit breaker. Might need out and just measure and fuse it to that?
My thought process is if the alternator spikes it won't go ape chit and burn the ecu up and stuff. I have heard to unhook the ecu with a battery charger on.
I've heard that too. Watched Roadkill and Finnegan fried his ECU in the Blasphemi due to a battery charger going to drag week. So I guess it is a thing. He actually had a spare ECU with him.
Agreed, maybe this is why the new chargers have a jump start selection? What's the difference.
This is where I got the idea, like bent said I wonder if he tried to start it with the charger on?
Where you taking it for dyno?
Little bit of a update on wiring.
Was thinking all out tuning off of 35th and pinnacle. Do you have anyone you would trust? I forget you are so local to me, surprised we haven't ran into each other.
There's a guy the LS people swear by - nicd - cant remember what shop he works with. I have NOT used him personally. I think he contracts out w/ a dyno place to use their dyno - maybe Cordes Performance...?
https://gonicd.com/wordpress/ has his email and links to some of what he's done, youtube channel. As I understand it he does a couple of dyno's and then drives it.
https://gonicd.com/wordpress/ has his email and links to some of what he's done, youtube channel. As I understand it he does a couple of dyno's and then drives it.
Why do you need a dyno tune with the Holley? You just want to know how many ponies?
I don't see why you would pay anyone to tune that though?
BTW, when I was doing some testing it showed 70 HP difference with just with tires on a tire drum roller type dyno. If you are serious I would find a hub dyno. You remove the wheels and bolt the axles to the dyno hub adaptors. It eliminates the tire weight as a variable, which is a big one, bigger than the gearing from my experience. But they have to have the adaptors for your bolt pattern.
I don't see why you would pay anyone to tune that though?
BTW, when I was doing some testing it showed 70 HP difference with just with tires on a tire drum roller type dyno. If you are serious I would find a hub dyno. You remove the wheels and bolt the axles to the dyno hub adaptors. It eliminates the tire weight as a variable, which is a big one, bigger than the gearing from my experience. But they have to have the adaptors for your bolt pattern.
Just want it to run the best way possible, it's kind of pop banging and farting if I rev it up some. For some odd reason I can't get more then 11 degrees of timing at idle, and I'm afraid of melting down the engine.
Something isn't making sense there, you can't get more timing? What do you mean by that? it won't let you or something bad happens?
Is it popping through the exhaust, or back through the intake?
How do your plugs look?
Do you have any exhaust leaks before the 02 sensor?
What does your fuel learn table look like?
Is it popping through the exhaust, or back through the intake?
How do your plugs look?
Do you have any exhaust leaks before the 02 sensor?
What does your fuel learn table look like?
Back fired through the intake, plugs I'm not sure haven't pulled one. Exhaust should be fine with no leaks, I will have to take a screenshot of the fuel table.
Backfiring through the intake would signal very lean, or timing issues. Are you sure its from the intake? Its more common to pop and bang out the exhaust because of fouled plugs from too much fuel...
Plugs should show either way. Sometimes you have to go back to basics and ignore the 02 sensor to find out what's going on.
The learn table will also show you what's going on, if you see it adding or subtracting a large amount where your issue is, its easy to delete that.
Plugs should show either way. Sometimes you have to go back to basics and ignore the 02 sensor to find out what's going on.
The learn table will also show you what's going on, if you see it adding or subtracting a large amount where your issue is, its easy to delete that.
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Been raining, haven't had a chance to look at it.
Pretty happy about this one. It plugs into the holley harness for the fuel pressure, t's off the 5v and ecu ground to the trans pressure switch then has a separate signal wire that will go into the holley screen. Bought the extension cable on Amazon and modified it.
Pretty happy about this one. It plugs into the holley harness for the fuel pressure, t's off the 5v and ecu ground to the trans pressure switch then has a separate signal wire that will go into the holley screen. Bought the extension cable on Amazon and modified it.
So I want/need to replace the spark plugs. I have always used factory spec plugs but have never done a "performance" engine until know.
Anyone have any recommendations? @folkenheath @Bent77
Anyone have any recommendations? @folkenheath @Bent77
