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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Slipping the trans and causing heat and burning fluid and clutches can hurt it likely easier than a firm shift.

Barking 3rd on the highway is not lazy though.

I use the 500 psi pressure sensor and I can see trans pressure in my digital dash. Then you'll know if something is off. The only time you will know what the pressure should be is at 0% DC, it should match what it was set at when built, all other times you are guessing unless you measure.
 
folkenheath said:
Slipping the trans and causing heat and burning fluid and clutches can hurt it likely easier than a firm shift.

Barking 3rd on the highway is not lazy though.

I use the 500 psi pressure sensor and I can see trans pressure in my digital dash. Then you'll know if something is off. The only time you will know what the pressure should be is at 0% DC, it should match what it was set at when built, all other times you are guessing unless you measure.
Click to expand...
Yeah it's not lazy at all. But it was different when it went from the gm to the holley ecu. It shifts like it did before.
 
Need a magnifying glass to see what the little specs are. They aluminum or just black carbon spots?

If it wasn't for those it looks pretty good on the ground strap and rim.

But if those are aluminum specs that is bad, if so, reduce your timing in low and midrange if it's only 28 up high.
 
folkenheath said:
Need a magnifying glass to see what the little specs are. They aluminum or just black carbon spots?

If it wasn't for those it looks pretty good on the ground strap and rim.

But if those are aluminum specs that is bad, if so, reduce your timing in low and midrange if it's only 28 up high.
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Are you talking about the silver on the ground strap? How can I make sure its not aluminum and just carbon?
 
No, the ground strap is turning gray because of heat, although it looks a little crisp of a line, possibly because its such low use. I was talking about the little black specks on the white porcelain.

Here is an excerpt from here...

Spark Plug Reading 101 by Mike Canter - Dragstuff

In depth article on how to read spark plugs - learn about how to read air / fuel mixture, timing and other tell-tale signs for optimum performance.
www.dragstuff.com

Detonation shows up on the plugs as spotting on the porcelain. There are two different types of spotting seen. One type appears as just black spots and the other appears as little bright spots like diamonds. The black spots (look like pepper sprinkled on the plug) indicate a little too much heat on the plug which causes detonation by having the heated plug fire off the mixture prior to the spark firing. This creates two flame fronts that collide and can cause great amounts of damage. If you see black spots on the porcelain and you know the tune-up is correct then you may need a colder plug. If you are not sure then increase the carburetor jet size slightly, take out some timing, or go to a colder plug. If you hold the plug in the sun and you see what appears to be small diamonds on the porcelain then your detonation is severe enough to be blowing off the aluminum from your piston and you need to add fuel and/or take out timing now.
Click to expand...

What heat range is your plug?
 
folkenheath said:
No, the ground strap is turning gray because of heat, although it looks a little crisp of a line, possibly because its such low use. I was talking about the little black specks on the white porcelain.

Here is an excerpt from here...

Spark Plug Reading 101 by Mike Canter - Dragstuff

In depth article on how to read spark plugs - learn about how to read air / fuel mixture, timing and other tell-tale signs for optimum performance.
www.dragstuff.com



What heat range is your plug?
Click to expand...
They Are stock plugs, not sure will have to check when I get home.
 
Please find the cross reference to an NGK #. I don't remember the delco numbers.
 
Then a #5 is probably fine on the heat range. You could try a 6 (NGK UR6GP), and/or ramp the timing up slower.
 
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