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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Babaganoosh said:
Do you know what part number it is? curious to see the specs of it. where do you have it mounted?
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I don't know the part number but I think it's similar or it is the CBR9835 if I recall correctly. Truck is at my house or I'd look.

I mount this in front of my radiator with the fan in puller sandwiched in between. You couldn't do that on a regular truck with a core support and everything though, it wouldn't even come close to fitting.
 
Tnsejed said:
I don't know the part number but I think it's similar or it is the CBR9835 if I recall correctly. Truck is at my house or I'd look.

I mount this in front of my radiator with the fan in puller sandwiched in between. You couldn't do that on a regular truck with a core support and everything though, it wouldn't even come close to fitting.
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That's similar to what I have now just a few inches wider.
 
Babaganoosh said:
That is a much better design of a shroud then what I have on it now, if you could look into both I would appreciate that. Do you know what part number I got for the trans cooler?
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I called Derale and left a message. The fan that comes with it is rated at 800 cfm, same as the Spal unit of the same size, I think they are using SPAL fans. My other derale fans are SPAL as well. I'll let you know what they say, trying to buy at least the shroud separately.
 
folkenheath said:
I called Derale and left a message. The fan that comes with it is rated at 800 cfm, same as the Spal unit of the same size, I think they are using SPAL fans. My other derale fans are SPAL as well. I'll let you know what they say, trying to buy at least the shroud separately.
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Thank you, much appreciated.
 
The good news is they got back to me almost immediately.

The bad news is they said they won't sell the shroud separately, just the fan.

I happen to have a fan and shroud here, exactly what is shown above, brand new in the box from my personal blazer project I would sell you for the difference plus shipping. That would leave me in the same scenario as you in a year or two, but I'll make do.

The cooler you have is the largest one I've fit on a square behind the grill, especially with AC. Its 67,000 Btu/hr

A typical 6 pass tube cooler is only 6,000 Btu or so!

Another option since you are not trying to fit it between the grill and the radiator anymore, you could do something like one of these two, they are much thicker.

If you aren't restricted to that thickness, those two racing coolers below are 95,000 and 125,000 Btu/hr

The upper one is dual 5" fans, the lower one is a single 8" fan for size reference. The lower one is the 125K Btu unit. The also offer it with a slim fan thats 625 cfm vs that fan at 750 cfm.

I can also get Afco, Fluidyne, and Setrab (never heard of it) among others....

If you want the shroud/fan I have here let me know.


658401_250x250.jpg


658614_250x250.jpg
 
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folkenheath said:
The good news is they got back to me almost immediately.

The bad news is they said they won't sell the shroud separately, just the fan.

I happen to have a fan and shroud here, exactly what is shown above, brand new in the box from my personal blazer project I would sell you for the difference plus shipping. That would leave me in the same scenario as you in a year or two, but I'll make do.

The cooler you have is the largest one I've fit on a square behind the grill, especially with AC. Its 67,000 Btu/hr

A typical 6 pass tube cooler is only 6,000 Btu or so!

Another option since you are not trying to fit it between the grill and the radiator anymore, you could do something like one of these two, they are much thicker.

If you aren't restricted to that thickness, those two racing coolers below are 95,000 and 125,000 Btu/hr

The upper one is dual 5" fans, the lower one is a single 8" fan for size reference. The lower one is the 125K Btu unit. The also offer it with a slim fan thats 625 cfm vs that fan at 750 cfm.

I can also get Afco, Fluidyne, and Setrab (never heard of it) among others....

If you want the shroud/fan I have here let me know.


658401_250x250.jpg


658614_250x250.jpg
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I would hate to take that fan shroud from you, maybe we can get dimensions and build one? I'm restricted on space, I have thought about ordering one up and running two coolers, which would be cheaper then one of those you mentioned and get me a fan shroud. Also with two I could get 137,000 of cooling.
 
Babaganoosh said:
I would hate to take that fan shroud from you, maybe we can get dimensions and build one?
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If you want it don't worry about it, I worry a little once I start making 1500 HP on the sand it won't be enough anyway. And I have a LOT of stuff to build before I can use it.

Babaganoosh said:
I'm restricted on space, I have thought about ordering one up and running two coolers, which would be cheaper then one of those you mentioned and get me a fan shroud. Also with two I could get 137,000 of cooling.
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Not a bad idea, two is better than even the 125K Btu one. The total is not cheaper, but still cheaper if you only have to buy one more as it's almost half the race unit. You with your long bed likely have more room that I do with the K5.
 
folkenheath said:
If you want it don't worry about it, I worry a little once I start making 1500 HP on the sand it won't be enough anyway. And I have a LOT of stuff to build before I can use it.



Not a bad idea, two is better than even the 125K Btu one. The total is not cheaper, but still cheaper if you only have to buy one more as it's almost half the race unit. You with your long bed likely have more room that I do with the K5.
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If you feel comfortable with it, I will take you up on that offer. Looks like the next step is ordering another cooler with a fan, getting the shroud from you and a fan along with some more hose and fittings.

The only down side to this is the exhaust is next to it which will require a heat shield and some fancy tape or wrapping. I have a two piece drive shaft and the cross member shares half of the mounting for the coolers.

If this doesn't fix the cooling issue I still won't be putting in a standard trans. :flipoff7:
 
ordered up some extension harnesses for the Holley ecu, Going to mount it behind the seat. Going to start stripping it soon and see how bad the rust is in the floor, would love to patch it but I'm scared of body work.
 
Babaganoosh said:
I thought those were known to not unlock in a corner.
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For me it was very predictable, would unlock if I went around the corner at low throttle, but would stay locked if I got on it.

Keep in mind it is always driving the slower tire, so thats the inside tire in a turn, so its easier to spin the inside tire when the weight shifts outward. So once you spin the inside tire to the same speed as outside, it's locked again.

I had the EZ locker 14 bolt unit, the only one they sell for a 14B if I recall, but you have to have a non G80 carrier for it to drop into.
 
My Detroit in my 14b is nice. You never feel it unlock or lock and it’s quiet as a mouse. Same as the Detroit in the 9” in my dad’s bronco. Mines an auto and his is a stick. I was a bit concerned after reading the stories of them being noisy and rough but it hasn’t been my experience at all.
 
I had one in my old Blazer, I wasn't a fan of it on the street. Any throttle in a corner and you're squealing the inside tire. For street the Detroit Trutrack is the bomb. Offroad I stuck with ARB.
 
r3dd0g said:
I had one in my old Blazer, I wasn't a fan of it on the street. Any throttle in a corner and you're squealing the inside tire. For street the Detroit Trutrack is the bomb. Offroad I stuck with ARB.
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Do you think a trutrack would work good in my truck? It doesn't offroad much, and when it does Moab is the hardest I will push it and thats a weekend out of the year. I have kept the G80 in because it gets mostly street driven and up until now it has been great.
 
It should work good off-road, it's only an issue if one wheel loses all traction, but riding the brakes a bit should get the wheel spinning again in theory.
As a disclaimer, I have no experience driving a torsional diff off-road.
 
r3dd0g said:
It should work good off-road, it's only an issue if one wheel loses all traction, but riding the brakes a bit should get the wheel spinning again in theory.
As a disclaimer, I have no experience driving a torsional diff off-road.
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I have one sitting on the shelf.
I got it after seeing my friend use it on the Rubicon, it does lock once you ride the brakes and stays locked till you get off the gas
 
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