CK5
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1982 k5 blazer

Ok so I sprayed carb cleaner at base of carb and it’s fine, I sprayed around manifold and there’s a leak. I’m upset because I had mechanic install new manifold and carb a few months ago and now there’s a leak. Guess I will be putting a new gasket and hopefully that fixes the issue.
Try tightening the the bolts a little before you change the gaskets
Just don't tighten too much so you don't warp anything
 
That is a waste of money unless you build a high compression motor tuned for performance.

Try tightening the the bolts a little before you change the gaskets
Just don't tighten too much so you don't warp anything
I just double checked it’s not the manifold it’s the bracket for the egr valve. I’m gonna put some gasket sealant on it tomorrow
 
I just double checked it’s not the manifold it’s the bracket for the egr valve. I’m gonna put some gasket sealant on it tomorrow
As Iceman said it is still a good idea to verify or at least check the manifold bolts torque value just for preventive purposes - especially after new gasket installation.
The cycles of expansion and contraction along with not knowing if the shop took the time to retorque after installation makes this a good practice for longevity results.

Glad you found the source of your leak - the ole carb cleaner spray is a first go-to for finding and isolating vacuum leaks.
Double check the actual EGR ( not just the base gasket ) because they are known to fail and cause a significant vacuum leak.
 
As Iceman said it is still a good idea to verify or at least check the manifold bolts torque value just for preventive purposes - especially after new gasket installation.
The cycles of expansion and contraction along with not knowing if the shop took the time to retorque after installation makes this a good practice for longevity results.

Glad you found the source of your leak - the ole carb cleaner spray is a first go-to for finding and isolating vacuum leaks.
Double check the actual EGR ( not just the base gasket ) because they are known to fail and cause a significant vacuum leak.
Ok I will tighten bolts tomorrow, the egr valve was new but guess I can replace it again since I’m changing the gasket anyway. Thanks for all your guys help. Mitch appreciated
 
Ok I will tighten bolts tomorrow, the egr valve was new but guess I can replace it again since I’m changing the gasket anyway. Thanks for all your guys help. Mitch appreciated
I wouldn't replace the egr until you confirm it is not leaking at the base but does leak on the egr proper
 
Just an update! So I replaced the egr valve gaskets and also put a new ported vacuum switch ( the one on the thermostat housing ) and I checked the manifold bolts and they were loose, I tightened them all up and truck is running much better. I still feel like it’s not running perfect yet, my question is now that the vacuum is better do I need to tune the idle mixture screws on my carb and also do I need to check the timing?
 
So I checked the timing and it was set to 13 degrees, I removed the vacuum line from the distributor to check the timing, when I put the vacuum line back on to the distributor and re checked the timing it made no difference. The timing light mark should have moved right?
 
So I checked the timing and it was set to 13 degrees, I removed the vacuum line from the distributor to check the timing, when I put the vacuum line back on to the distributor and re checked the timing it made no difference. The timing light mark should have moved right?
So plugged into vacuum or not it's the same?
Something wrong.
Can you feel vacuum from the hose?
If you do then make the canister is bad
 
That’s a good question, the mechanic I had working on my truck bypassed some of the smog stuff so truck had more power and ran better. Which the truck was running really good then all the sudden it started running like crap, I’m guessing because I got a vacuum leak. Now that I tightened the manifold bolts and changed the egr valve gaskets it is running a lot better but I still hear something wrong from the exhaust.
 
That’s a good question, the mechanic I had working on my truck bypassed some of the smog stuff so truck had more power and ran better. Which the truck was running really good then all the sudden it started running like crap, I’m guessing because I got a vacuum leak. Now that I tightened the manifold bolts and changed the egr valve gaskets it is running a lot better but I still hear something wrong from the exhaust.
The distributor shouldn't have any smog stuff in between, it goes straight in the base or on the intake.
The carb usually has some hoses going to smog switches
 
Ok I’ll take a look tomorrow morning when sun comes up, thanks for your help as always
 
A mighty vac pump would help you test if the vacuum canister on the distributor is good. It is also a good tool to have around for solo brake bleeding.

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If that distributor vacuum canister fails, not only is your timing off, but you also have a source of a vacuum leak.
 
So I checked the timing and it was set to 13 degrees, I removed the vacuum line from the distributor to check the timing, when I put the vacuum line back on to the distributor and re checked the timing it made no difference. The timing light mark should have moved right?
Yes, but it should only move when you rev it up. At idle it should still be roughly at base timing. You will only be at full advance when it's got some real rpms.
 
Yes, but it should only move when you rev it up. At idle it should still be roughly at base timing. You will only be at full advance when it's got some real rpms.
I f that is the case, why pull the vacuum off the distributor to set base timing?
 
Yes, but it should only move when you rev it up. At idle it should still be roughly at base timing. You will only be at full advance when it's got some real rpms.
Manifold vacuum is an excellent indicator of engine load. So with the throttle barely cracked open, manifold vacuum will be high – 14” to 16 “Hg – compared to WOT, when vacuum drops to roughly 0.5 “Hg. So this range of manifold vacuum can be used as a great modifier when hooked to a simple canister with a moving diaphragm that works against spring pressure in the canister to move a link rod connected to the base plate in the distributor to advance the timing.
I think you have it backwards. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/ignition-tech-where-to-hook-up-your-vacuum-advance-distributor/
 
Hey all, do you guys like Lucas hot rod oil? I just did oil change on my truck and I put the driven hr2 but I screwed up when I put new oil filter on, I didn’t realize the rubber gasket from old folder was stuck on the truck so when I put new filter and put oil then turned truck on I had oil everywhere lmfao. So I bought another filter, but local parts stores don’t carry driven oil and I had to drive across town for Lucas oil. Just hoping it’s good for flat tappet cam
 
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