Ok, I posted up in a few places. Id like to get that fixed sooner than later. She's been driving it a lot lately, and Id like her to at least have a bumper that functions....
CK5
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1983 K10, Shannons truck. ***UPDATE POST #418***
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
Ok, I posted up in a few places. Id like to get that fixed sooner than later. She's been driving it a lot lately, and Id like her to at least have a bumper that functions....
I will let ya know before I start cutting.
Ill double check, but I packed 2 of the little spline shaped seals in there.
If he mentioned that earlier, I had no idea about anything on these cases, so it probably went over my head anyways.
The yoke is pretty worn down.
If he mentioned that earlier, I had no idea about anything on these cases, so it probably went over my head anyways.
The yoke is pretty worn down.
I like to put a nice coat of RTV on the splines too.
The yoke should be a 32 spline in case you end up ordering one.
Id imagine it would be slinging it all over the place if that were so. Its just a single drip going straight down from the seal from what I could tell.
I would get a new yoke, if it's not bad for now let it ride then get a new yoke when the $ is available. Speedi sleeve the old one though and toss it in the spares box.
When you install a yoke they get a nice amount of Right stuff in the splines before you put it on, then some on the big washer, before you put the nut on. I'm not sure it's possible to use too much right stuff in this case. Also Right stuff is so good you can then later remove the nut and the right stuff should still hold the Yoke on.
And you think I'm kidding about the right stuff but the last Vegas to Reno we ran I hit a few too many rocks with the front dif. and broke all the bolts out of the bottom of the cover, we tightened the remaining bolts back up and finished 200+ miles with a pretty steady drip coming from the dif but the right stuff was good enough that even missing like 5 bolts on the bottom of the cover only resulted in a drip.
Oh you don't need to make me a believer in Right Stuff. Ive been using it for a long time.
I however stopped using it on dif covers, as its so damn hard to get them off anymore lol.
I however stopped using it on dif covers, as its so damn hard to get them off anymore lol.
So...how hard is it to clean off when you hafta remove the part?
Clean up isn't bad but it bonds really well creating a little work to get parts loose sometimes.
That's what I meant.
I'm having difficulty remembering specifics, but I have bent up some sheet metal trying to get it free. Thinking it was a valve cover. But I do remember having to straighten it afterwards.
Is there some trick to avoiding this in the future?
That's what I meant.
I'm having difficulty remembering specifics, but I have bent up some sheet metal trying to get it free. Thinking it was a valve cover. But I do remember having to straighten it afterwards.
Is there some trick to avoiding this in the future?
I'm sure you could run a razor blade between the two.
Then again I don't like stock thin steel covers for that reason.
You need the front of two '81+ frame rails?
Martin
Martin
Yes.
Will a 2wd frame work?
Martin
Martin
I assume they are the same?
So...how hard is it to clean off when you hafta remove the part?
In short, it sucks most of the time. We had to drill and tap the dif covers of the race car to put Jack bolts in to remove the covers. Keep in mind we would be in the dif's at least 6 times a year if not more. Transfer cases and large things you can usually get a prybar into part of it to pry it apart.
It's good enough that while I dread taking things apart that I used it on I also love not worrying about leaks.
I think the creator of Right Stuff should get into the Prophylactic market myself.
Sounds painful
I like that idea.
4x4
2wd
Martin
2wd
Martin
