CK5
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1983 K10, Shannons truck. ***UPDATE POST #418***
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
Its getting run until it doesn't run anymore lol.
I have a feeling yellow truck may need to sit on hold for a year or 2 as far as $$$ upgrades, while she goes back to school.
That's fine by me though.
A friend had a 400 SB in a '72 Impala with a very loud and un-nerving rattle/knock ,sounded like an extremely loose wrist pin or a busted piston skirt--he beat the snot out of that thing over a year trying to blow it up--it sounded just the same as it did the year before..
I wouldn't have trusted that engine out of my driveway..
My older brother had a '77 Scottsdale with a 250 six,that had very loud wrist pins or piston slap from new,after it warmed up for about 15 minutes,it sounded perfectly silent..next morning after a cold start,you'd swear it was going to grenade!..it was like that for as long as he owned it,at least a couple years..
I wouldn't have trusted that engine out of my driveway..
My older brother had a '77 Scottsdale with a 250 six,that had very loud wrist pins or piston slap from new,after it warmed up for about 15 minutes,it sounded perfectly silent..next morning after a cold start,you'd swear it was going to grenade!..it was like that for as long as he owned it,at least a couple years..
It gets a little better as it warms up, but never goes away.
But I guess that's better than the opposite. The engine my blazer had originally would run great until it was warmed up, and then it would knock terribly. The crank bearings were totally shot when we tore it down.
But I guess that's better than the opposite. The engine my blazer had originally would run great until it was warmed up, and then it would knock terribly. The crank bearings were totally shot when we tore it down.
Yeah,if it gets louder after it warms up,that usually indicates a lower end problem like loose bearings,the oil thins out as it gets warmer and lets the bearings rattle--sometimes you'll hear a woodpecker sound on a cold start until oil pressure gets to the loose bearings too,then they quiet down some,and eventually get louder as the oil thins out..
If the engine tends to quiet down after its warmed up its usually pistons or bad lifters making the noise..the parts expand as they warm up and the noise isn't as bad..
I almost yanked the 350 out of my '72 K5 when it developed a disturbing knock--at first I thought maybe the timing chain was loose,and slapping against the timing cover--but upon closer inspection I found out the rocker arm on the fuel pump had broken away the pivot pin from the casting where it is crimped in,and the rocker arm was just flopping around!--.
I used a stethascope to listen in the area where the rapping was,and if I put it on the fuel pump it was like a baseball bat hitting a log!....it still ran fine,no starving for fuel,just one of those fluke things you see happen once in a blue moon..
If the engine tends to quiet down after its warmed up its usually pistons or bad lifters making the noise..the parts expand as they warm up and the noise isn't as bad..
I almost yanked the 350 out of my '72 K5 when it developed a disturbing knock--at first I thought maybe the timing chain was loose,and slapping against the timing cover--but upon closer inspection I found out the rocker arm on the fuel pump had broken away the pivot pin from the casting where it is crimped in,and the rocker arm was just flopping around!--.
I used a stethascope to listen in the area where the rapping was,and if I put it on the fuel pump it was like a baseball bat hitting a log!....it still ran fine,no starving for fuel,just one of those fluke things you see happen once in a blue moon..
Thicker oil and STP oil treatment goes along way towards making things slicker and live longer.
We had an old 454 when I was in high school that loved to have 15/40 and a bottle of STP. It burned about a quart every 1000 miles or so and we just kept adding STP to it. I think it's last official oil change was some 15/40 and 80/90 thrown in for filler. Then it was torn down and made into a 468 with goodies.
All handstand pictures are GOG approved as well.
We had an old 454 when I was in high school that loved to have 15/40 and a bottle of STP. It burned about a quart every 1000 miles or so and we just kept adding STP to it. I think it's last official oil change was some 15/40 and 80/90 thrown in for filler. Then it was torn down and made into a 468 with goodies.
All handstand pictures are GOG approved as well.
I don't like the sounds my BB make after its warm...sounds great when it cool.
STP eh! Lol! might try that...
I have used the Lucas oil treatment along with some heavier engine oil to make a knocking 350 last a while.
It used about a quart every 1000 miles too.
It used about a quart every 1000 miles too.
You are giving me ideas for selling the motor in my k5. It smokes and knocks a little
I have used both to slow down the rate of oil leakage.
I've only had one or two chevy engines that did not use a quart of any weight oil for 1000 miles!..one was the 250 six in my van,another was the 267 V8 in an El-Camino I had...
All the rest needed a quart after 300-600 miles,that is considered "high oil consumption" by GM,and indicates a rebuild is needed..but all those engine ran good,had decent power,got average gas mileage,and did not foul spark plugs or smoke screen (at least that I could see driving them),so I just ran them,and kept the oil topped up..
I did add some "Motor-Medic" or Lucas once in a while ,it does help slow the consumption down and quiet noisy engines somewhat..worst engine I had for oil use was in a '67 Impala with a 283..had to dump a quart in every 200-300 miles,and that one did smoke noticeably,especially after you let it idle a few minutes,then floored it,,probably had no valve stem seals left..it would foul 2 plugs once in a while,I used to stick the fouled plug in another cylinder,swap them around,and that would get them firing again..
I tried using straight 90W gear oil in that engine once--it was a dismal failure--the lifters collapsed and clattered badly right after I started it up,it STUNK like a sulpher mine fire,and I ended up dumping it and putting SAE 40 in it...now I have learned 90W gear oil actually has about the same viscosity as SAE 30 oil ...I thought the "extreme pressure" quality might help,but I guess that only applies to hypoid gears,not engines !..
All the rest needed a quart after 300-600 miles,that is considered "high oil consumption" by GM,and indicates a rebuild is needed..but all those engine ran good,had decent power,got average gas mileage,and did not foul spark plugs or smoke screen (at least that I could see driving them),so I just ran them,and kept the oil topped up..
I did add some "Motor-Medic" or Lucas once in a while ,it does help slow the consumption down and quiet noisy engines somewhat..worst engine I had for oil use was in a '67 Impala with a 283..had to dump a quart in every 200-300 miles,and that one did smoke noticeably,especially after you let it idle a few minutes,then floored it,,probably had no valve stem seals left..it would foul 2 plugs once in a while,I used to stick the fouled plug in another cylinder,swap them around,and that would get them firing again..
I tried using straight 90W gear oil in that engine once--it was a dismal failure--the lifters collapsed and clattered badly right after I started it up,it STUNK like a sulpher mine fire,and I ended up dumping it and putting SAE 40 in it...now I have learned 90W gear oil actually has about the same viscosity as SAE 30 oil ...I thought the "extreme pressure" quality might help,but I guess that only applies to hypoid gears,not engines !..
Next oil change put Delo 400 and some Lucas additive in it .
I would take a sample of the old oil Do an Oil anaysis on it , and cut the filter. At least then you will have some sort of idea.
I would take a sample of the old oil Do an Oil anaysis on it , and cut the filter. At least then you will have some sort of idea.
Back in my wilder days, Yesterday??? I was going to college in Orlando. Friend of mine brought a minibike into my apartment that he had been given because the engine was frozen.
We tore it down in my living room, and found that the top piston ring had fractured and a piece of it had gone between the piston and the cylinder wall and gotten on top of the piston.
There was not enough clearance for that piece of metal, so it locked up the engine.
We smoothed out the edges of the cylinder wall gouge, made a piston ring out of something, I don't remember what, and put it back together.
We could not get enough compression pulling the rope to crank it, so we dropped an old lug nut in the centrifugal clutch to lock it up, and towed me around the parking lot behind my friend's Camero until the "ring" wore the cylinder wall enough to "seat". The oil was silver and shiny every time we checked it.
Finally it got to where it would run. Actually got pretty good power. Smoked badly though. Finally resorted to running straight STP, no oil at all.
Cut way down on the smoke and got decent oil mileage.
Since the engine was vertical right under the seat, I added a 3/4 inch piece of plywood between the seat and the engine head. I knew the engine would let go sooner or later, and if the piston came though the head, I was worried about getting an aluminum enema.
Darn near got killed on that thing several times. Great fun.
We tore it down in my living room, and found that the top piston ring had fractured and a piece of it had gone between the piston and the cylinder wall and gotten on top of the piston.
There was not enough clearance for that piece of metal, so it locked up the engine.
We smoothed out the edges of the cylinder wall gouge, made a piston ring out of something, I don't remember what, and put it back together.
We could not get enough compression pulling the rope to crank it, so we dropped an old lug nut in the centrifugal clutch to lock it up, and towed me around the parking lot behind my friend's Camero until the "ring" wore the cylinder wall enough to "seat". The oil was silver and shiny every time we checked it.
Finally it got to where it would run. Actually got pretty good power. Smoked badly though. Finally resorted to running straight STP, no oil at all.
Cut way down on the smoke and got decent oil mileage.
Since the engine was vertical right under the seat, I added a 3/4 inch piece of plywood between the seat and the engine head. I knew the engine would let go sooner or later, and if the piston came though the head, I was worried about getting an aluminum enema.
Darn near got killed on that thing several times. Great fun.
CamAro.
Martin
Martin
Fordum's mini-bike story brings back memories of one of my mini-bikes..I was about 14 when I got it..was going to vocational school,and was enrolled in an industrial maintenence shop class.
Bought it off a kid for 20 bucks,seized up tight..the connecting rod had busted into 1,000 pieces and some of the shrapnel jammed between the crank and engine block,and knocked a large hole in it..junk..crank was scored bad,and the block cracked around the main bearing behind the flywheel..piston was missing its skirts,and the valve lifters were bent,camshaft also was in 2 pieces..
I couldn't find a decent horizontal shaft engine larger than 1.5 HP--since we live in the snow belt,it was rare to find a discarded snowblower with a salvageable engine..and any spares were snapped up to keep old ones working..
I tried one of those old cast iron horizontal shaft Briggs 5s engines used on old reel type mowers,it was so gutless I had to push the bike to get it rolling,and it would come to a halt on the slightest uphill grade,and it refused to propel itself on dirt or grass..one day when I got it going downhill about 30 mph,the 1/2" crankshaft decided to snap off flush with the engine block..(after having to make a bushing to allow the 5/8" bore clutch to fit it at school )...
One day not long after that,I saw a neighbors old Toro rotary mower in the trash at the curb,and he said "it runs OK,but the deck is rotted out,one wheel fell off it.."..I pushed it home,and took it to school the next week I was in shop class,along with the mini bike frame..
I attempted to make a motor mount to allow the vertical shaft engine to be bolted up like a horizontal one,and used a carb with a diaphram built into it off another mower at school ,so it would run--no float,so no problems with how you mounted it..it actually ran decent..
The machine trades shop made a custom adapter to allow my 5/8" bore clutch to fit the 7/8" stubby crank on the engine..
When I got it assembled,I took it for a ride around the school parking lot,and despite it being only 3.5 HP,it went right along and had decent power..
Unfortunately the engine didn't live too long,it didn't like being run with the cylinder facing straight up,and with no "dipper" on the connecting rod,it starved for oil,and tossed the rod in a few days..
I came across another 3.5 Tecumseh on a lawn edger ,that was "stuck"--I took it to shop class and took it all apart,and found a deep score in the cylinder..my teacher suggested I take it to the auto trades shop,and let them bore it out,then the machine trades shop could make a sleeve for it..he figured this was good practice for the students,and the other shop teachers agreed..
They ended up using a hunk of pipe for a sleeve,turned and bored to fit the piston,one I got from a junk vertical shaft mower engine that was also 3.5 HP,and happened to be identical to the scored up one..
That engine ran pretty darn good for a long time--I took it off in favor of a 6 HP Tecumseh I found on a old roto-tiller--it had a "double shaft" so the tiller could have reverse,it had a second side shaft that ran off the camshaft sticking out of the case--it was right in the way of my clutch,so I started the engine up,and held a hack saw against the shaft,until it was cut off..
...the mini-bike would pop wheelies and fly out from under you if you twisted the throttle too fast with that engine on it..
After that I bought a Honda C110 ,a 50 CC "street bike" that was a 4 speed manual,it looked just like an S90 model..I could hit 60 mph on that thing..wish I kept that thing,I see ones like it now selling for thousands on e-bay..I paid 35 bucks for it..
It died when the flywheel came loose one day and I drove it home,and it chowed the taper on the crank and flywheel,and an attempt to braze the flywheel key into the now hogged out slot was a dismal "fail"..there was a Honda shop nearby that had used parts bikes,but they wanted like 200 bucks for a junk engine,just for the crank..I dont recall if I sold it to the bike shop or what..
Bought it off a kid for 20 bucks,seized up tight..the connecting rod had busted into 1,000 pieces and some of the shrapnel jammed between the crank and engine block,and knocked a large hole in it..junk..crank was scored bad,and the block cracked around the main bearing behind the flywheel..piston was missing its skirts,and the valve lifters were bent,camshaft also was in 2 pieces..
I couldn't find a decent horizontal shaft engine larger than 1.5 HP--since we live in the snow belt,it was rare to find a discarded snowblower with a salvageable engine..and any spares were snapped up to keep old ones working..
I tried one of those old cast iron horizontal shaft Briggs 5s engines used on old reel type mowers,it was so gutless I had to push the bike to get it rolling,and it would come to a halt on the slightest uphill grade,and it refused to propel itself on dirt or grass..one day when I got it going downhill about 30 mph,the 1/2" crankshaft decided to snap off flush with the engine block..(after having to make a bushing to allow the 5/8" bore clutch to fit it at school )...
One day not long after that,I saw a neighbors old Toro rotary mower in the trash at the curb,and he said "it runs OK,but the deck is rotted out,one wheel fell off it.."..I pushed it home,and took it to school the next week I was in shop class,along with the mini bike frame..
I attempted to make a motor mount to allow the vertical shaft engine to be bolted up like a horizontal one,and used a carb with a diaphram built into it off another mower at school ,so it would run--no float,so no problems with how you mounted it..it actually ran decent..
The machine trades shop made a custom adapter to allow my 5/8" bore clutch to fit the 7/8" stubby crank on the engine..
When I got it assembled,I took it for a ride around the school parking lot,and despite it being only 3.5 HP,it went right along and had decent power..
Unfortunately the engine didn't live too long,it didn't like being run with the cylinder facing straight up,and with no "dipper" on the connecting rod,it starved for oil,and tossed the rod in a few days..
I came across another 3.5 Tecumseh on a lawn edger ,that was "stuck"--I took it to shop class and took it all apart,and found a deep score in the cylinder..my teacher suggested I take it to the auto trades shop,and let them bore it out,then the machine trades shop could make a sleeve for it..he figured this was good practice for the students,and the other shop teachers agreed..
They ended up using a hunk of pipe for a sleeve,turned and bored to fit the piston,one I got from a junk vertical shaft mower engine that was also 3.5 HP,and happened to be identical to the scored up one..
That engine ran pretty darn good for a long time--I took it off in favor of a 6 HP Tecumseh I found on a old roto-tiller--it had a "double shaft" so the tiller could have reverse,it had a second side shaft that ran off the camshaft sticking out of the case--it was right in the way of my clutch,so I started the engine up,and held a hack saw against the shaft,until it was cut off..
...the mini-bike would pop wheelies and fly out from under you if you twisted the throttle too fast with that engine on it..After that I bought a Honda C110 ,a 50 CC "street bike" that was a 4 speed manual,it looked just like an S90 model..I could hit 60 mph on that thing..wish I kept that thing,I see ones like it now selling for thousands on e-bay..I paid 35 bucks for it..
It died when the flywheel came loose one day and I drove it home,and it chowed the taper on the crank and flywheel,and an attempt to braze the flywheel key into the now hogged out slot was a dismal "fail"..there was a Honda shop nearby that had used parts bikes,but they wanted like 200 bucks for a junk engine,just for the crank..I dont recall if I sold it to the bike shop or what..
How the shit does this have 21 pages hahah.
********************** UPDATE **********************************
Time to start getting the last of the parts pile together to make this a bit more fun in the dunes.
Been collecting this stuff for a few years finding deals. Shocks and Springs are used.
-ORD front springs and a pair of Raptor shocks (same as my front end)
- Foa 2.5 coilovers for a rear 4 link.
- Heims at the rear axle, bushings at the frame.
I have under $1200 into everything sitting here. Hoping for a final suspension budget of $3000-$3500 (I will build everything I can to save some $$$) with beadlocks, tires, and air bumps to purchase. (and $500 or so for the little shit).
********************** UPDATE **********************************
Time to start getting the last of the parts pile together to make this a bit more fun in the dunes.
Been collecting this stuff for a few years finding deals. Shocks and Springs are used.
-ORD front springs and a pair of Raptor shocks (same as my front end)
- Foa 2.5 coilovers for a rear 4 link.
- Heims at the rear axle, bushings at the frame.
I have under $1200 into everything sitting here. Hoping for a final suspension budget of $3000-$3500 (I will build everything I can to save some $$$) with beadlocks, tires, and air bumps to purchase. (and $500 or so for the little shit).
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hers is going to do better then yours, she has no zip ties.......
Downward spiral, you will gets beams and trailing arms.... I know of a guy...
