Are you against trimming sheet metal in the front?
Martin
Martin
CK5
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1985: FrankenBurban 3/4 ton 4x4 grassroots hauler
- Thread starter fidelity101
- Start date
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
Yes. I like the body because its still clean, aside from the section in the back where someone backed a horse trailer into.
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
I just checked, I have 285/75/16s aka 33"s
I dont think I can go any larger.
I dont think I can go any larger.
Throw a 1" zero rate in the front and a 1" body lift on there, it'll clear 35's.
Martin
Martin
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
eh, too much work, Just gonna leave it as is lol.
Anyways!
Found a replacement engine nearby, asking 400. Bottom end unknown mileage but
new rings
new lifters
new push rods
new mild rv cam
1" throttle body spacer
new timing chain and gear
Pulled from a running 90 or 91 K5 that rotted out.
If it comp tests good then I'm thinking just slap main seals and some misc gaskets and be good to go!
Anyways!
Found a replacement engine nearby, asking 400. Bottom end unknown mileage but
new rings
new lifters
new push rods
new mild rv cam
1" throttle body spacer
new timing chain and gear
Pulled from a running 90 or 91 K5 that rotted out.
If it comp tests good then I'm thinking just slap main seals and some misc gaskets and be good to go!
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fidelity101
1/2 ton status
Updates!
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That "good" engine was really gritty sounding when turning over, it made 120psi and I got a blast of water in the face from cyl 8 upon initial cranking...
PASS!
but I did pick up an in complete serp belt swap with an complete longblock tbi w/ engine stand for 100 dollars. Real compression #s are still unknown at this time, but I was able to get about 60psi out of it by turning it over by hand, made much friendlier compression noises than the other one.
It looks to have come from a work truck or van, maybe add an oil cooler... otherwise I can plug the one end and the other would be great for a gauge.
Now I'm about this far:
I'm just getting ready to get the engine out but I'm not sure if I want to just pull the engine or pull the whole t-case/trans/engine combo, because aligning input shaft splines on the trans to the engine as well as getting at a few of the bolts looks like a nightmare...
How have you guys done it, I'm curious if my hoist can pull off the job.
I think regardless though I am going to need a few friends to come over and help
[FONT="]
That "good" engine was really gritty sounding when turning over, it made 120psi and I got a blast of water in the face from cyl 8 upon initial cranking...
PASS!
but I did pick up an in complete serp belt swap with an complete longblock tbi w/ engine stand for 100 dollars. Real compression #s are still unknown at this time, but I was able to get about 60psi out of it by turning it over by hand, made much friendlier compression noises than the other one.
It looks to have come from a work truck or van, maybe add an oil cooler... otherwise I can plug the one end and the other would be great for a gauge.
Now I'm about this far:
I'm just getting ready to get the engine out but I'm not sure if I want to just pull the engine or pull the whole t-case/trans/engine combo, because aligning input shaft splines on the trans to the engine as well as getting at a few of the bolts looks like a nightmare...
How have you guys done it, I'm curious if my hoist can pull off the job.
I think regardless though I am going to need a few friends to come over and help
It looks to have come from a work truck or van, maybe add an oil cooler... otherwise I can plug the one end and the other would be great for a gauge.
Do away with that leaking pos. Just screw on a standard oil filter adapter in its place.
It will all come out together, and your cherry picker will take it, but why?
Martin
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
its always a pain in the ass lining up the input shaft on the trans to the clutch splines. I usually pull the engine with the trans on my rx7 or other RWD vehicles but I've never attempted it with 4x4.
EDIT:
Also, I was looking in the glovebox and saw the specs/options sticker on this burban and it turns out that I have a locker in the back!
EDIT:
Also, I was looking in the glovebox and saw the specs/options sticker on this burban and it turns out that I have a locker in the back!
Last edited:
454Sub
5/8 ton status
You should keep that oil cooler, it really is a good peace of mind thing for a tow rig. And if you are really concerned with the wiring being shot, it all just hooks up at the fuse box, unbolt it, remove it and you can pick up a decent one from a yard for dirt cheap. Its up to you on how you do your ride, but the TBI is a very reliable system, and there isnt to much in the wiring. I pulled mine off and stripped all the looming off to check for shorts, fixed all the nonsense and reloomed it.
That picker can lift both tranny and motor out, but someone will need to stand on the backside of the picker or it will probably tip over. That leads to all badness.
That picker can lift both tranny and motor out, but someone will need to stand on the backside of the picker or it will probably tip over. That leads to all badness.
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
Yeah I didn't have anyone avail to do so and the bell housings bolts weren't all that bad to get to. It was just hard breaking them loose, getting them out wasn't too bad. Now putting it back in is going to require some help lol.
The problem with my wiring is all that all the connectors show corrosion and even the wires themselves have a lot of wicking in them so the brittleness and corroded wires run deep into the loom.
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
Did a comp test on the engine finally and got no blast of water in the face and no terrible gritty sounds, all comp numbers read about 150-155 except cyl 3 and 4 were about 135-140... good enough for me!
Just dropped off the flywheel to get resurfaced and hopefully go junkyarding soon for the rest of my serp belt swap.
Just dropped off the flywheel to get resurfaced and hopefully go junkyarding soon for the rest of my serp belt swap.
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
Updates! 12/04/2012
So the plan is going to serp belt swap with E-fan. Almost got all the serp belt parts to swap but got other things in first. Gaskets and clutch hydraulics
size comparison between rx7 clutch and suburban lol
I will be re-using the old clutch because it is less than 10% worn, luckily whoever did the swap last at least put a new clutch in it but I believe the throwout bearing is so-so
Flywheel all nicely re-finished!
Here is the progress block on the block had to swap valve covers and replace those gaskets
Inside the block!
It was 100 dollars well spent! 4 bolt mains with a little windige tray and the cross hatch on the cylinder walls looks good as does underneath the valve covers.
Next up! Install high flow oil pump, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, install clutch components (hydraulic and mechanical/bearings) and hopefully drop this sucker in before Christmas.
Once the engine is in I can get the accessories in order, figure out what electric fan I want and etc, I would like to get the engine in before it gets cold considering I don’t think I’ve felt it be winter yet…
after that comes headers, electric oil pressure gauge, electrical water temp gauge.
So the plan is going to serp belt swap with E-fan. Almost got all the serp belt parts to swap but got other things in first. Gaskets and clutch hydraulics
size comparison between rx7 clutch and suburban lol
I will be re-using the old clutch because it is less than 10% worn, luckily whoever did the swap last at least put a new clutch in it but I believe the throwout bearing is so-so
Flywheel all nicely re-finished!
Here is the progress block on the block had to swap valve covers and replace those gaskets
Inside the block!
It was 100 dollars well spent! 4 bolt mains with a little windige tray and the cross hatch on the cylinder walls looks good as does underneath the valve covers.
Next up! Install high flow oil pump, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, install clutch components (hydraulic and mechanical/bearings) and hopefully drop this sucker in before Christmas.
Once the engine is in I can get the accessories in order, figure out what electric fan I want and etc, I would like to get the engine in before it gets cold considering I don’t think I’ve felt it be winter yet…
after that comes headers, electric oil pressure gauge, electrical water temp gauge.
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
engine ready to go in this weekend, just waiting on a clutch hose and then some misc gaskets, got bored waiting for parts and fixed the rear window crank, It wasn't broken it was just a pain in the ass, until now!
muuuuuch better
muuuuuch better
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
Nice.
engine ready to go in this weekend, just waiting on a clutch hose and then some misc gaskets, got bored waiting for parts and fixed the rear window crank, It wasn't broken it was just a pain in the ass, until now!
muuuuuch better
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
Christmas! so I buy myself some hooker headers (2453HKR part#)
and just to my luck, they wont fit!!!!!!!!!
Anyone else have this issue? It just seems to be hitting the bump stop bracket for the leaf springs. I haven't tested the driver side but it looks like it will fit once I uninstall the slave cylinder. I figured I would try the side that has more stuff (front axle, starter)
Summit says this will fit, wtfsauce
and just to my luck, they wont fit!!!!!!!!!
Anyone else have this issue? It just seems to be hitting the bump stop bracket for the leaf springs. I haven't tested the driver side but it looks like it will fit once I uninstall the slave cylinder. I figured I would try the side that has more stuff (front axle, starter)
Summit says this will fit, wtfsauce
That's the pinion snubber, isn't it? You're lifted, right? Just take that off.
Martin
Martin
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
No it looks like the bump stop bracket for the front leaf springs and I'm stock ride height. I'm thinking of just unbolting it, its not like this truck gets much (or very little) off road abuse.
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
You were right!
I had took the photos before Christmas so after work yesterday I took a peak and it looks like it hits the pinion snubber, so yeah thats getting removed.
Yeah, the bump stops are under the frame.
Martin
Martin
fidelity101
1/2 ton status
More progress!
What you can't see (and I will get photos later) is how how I have Taurus SHO fans hidden in the factory shroud, very clean.
Just have to make/adapt/modify some radiator hoses so i can hook up the SBC to the 6.2L diesel radiator.
and now even more complete!
I also replaced the TBI injectors connectors (15 dollars) because they were nasty, I'm surprised they even fired. next is install plug wires, misc large diameter vac tubing then fill with fluids and pray.
I went to hook up the hydroboost on this but the new pumps don't have an outlet on the bottom, so I just traced the line back to the hydroboost unit and plugged it, I assume that is what is needed to do on these.
That and I have no idea what the connector goes to that you see by my heater core lines…
What you can't see (and I will get photos later) is how how I have Taurus SHO fans hidden in the factory shroud, very clean.
Just have to make/adapt/modify some radiator hoses so i can hook up the SBC to the 6.2L diesel radiator.
and now even more complete!
I also replaced the TBI injectors connectors (15 dollars) because they were nasty, I'm surprised they even fired. next is install plug wires, misc large diameter vac tubing then fill with fluids and pray.
I went to hook up the hydroboost on this but the new pumps don't have an outlet on the bottom, so I just traced the line back to the hydroboost unit and plugged it, I assume that is what is needed to do on these.
That and I have no idea what the connector goes to that you see by my heater core lines…
