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1985: FrankenBurban 3/4 ton 4x4 grassroots hauler

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fidelity101 said:
If I keep my existing setup I have no problem retaining the spedo cable, I have aftermarket gauges already for fuel level, water temp, oil pressure - the only original gauge that works is the spedo and when I put the 35s on it actually became accurate... (GPS tested!)

I mean physically taking the engine/trans combo out and in will be tough, and I would have to remove the front clip. with the engine swap alone I don't need to remove the core support or hood. You are saying I would need a VSS for a DBW setup because good luck using a DBC on a LQ4 since it never existed? otherwise I am running all 5.3 accessories on a 6.0 to use a DBC need a re-tune of the PCM.
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You could tune it without using speed density but usually those are for race car applications. High rpm full load all the time. Edit I can't remember but I think speed density is for no maf sensor. I am just learning best to ask a pro

Talk to @Team208Motorsports he will set you straight
 
Speed density is used on systems without a maf and swapping from dbw and dbc isn't impossible they will all require a tune at that point
 
I use speed density on the rally car, it works well but maybe we are getting off topic... If the donor engine was drive by wire I would just keep it that way and pick up the pedal assembly from the junkyard. Seems easier than going from DBW to DBC or vice versa.

Would I need vehicle speed for the DBW setup? I would suspect I would only need that for adding cruise control.

There are a lot of hummer h2 LQ4 dropouts for about 2k here. or a full truck with a 4l80E 4x4 is about 3500-4500.
 
After quick research you should have no problem running with out a vss. As long as whoever tunes it knows what they are doing.
 
You do not need the vss. The tune will need to be setup for it or return to idle and off idle will suffer. Cable or wire will work, just choose what you are comfy with. Some guys just hate the idea of wire and call it laggy... Its all in the tune and the parts you use. Different TAC modules are ramped at different rates. 03-05 truck and suv are nice. 06-07 things change and slows down. 07 van is horrible. Cars are a whole other story.

No, the TAC is not reflashable/programable until gen 5 style architecture.

EDIT - I should add if you want cruise, wire is the way to go. You would need a VSS but its very easy to add an inline one with the cable. Dakota Digital sells them for 8k AC sign signal.
 
Team208Motorsports said:
You do not need the vss. The tune will need to be setup for it or return to idle and off idle will suffer. Cable or wire will work, just choose what you are comfy with. Some guys just hate the idea of wire and call it laggy... Its all in the tune and the parts you use. Different TAC modules are ramped at different rates. 03-05 truck and suv are nice. 06-07 things change and slows down. 07 van is horrible. Cars are a whole other story.

No, the TAC is not reflashable/programable until gen 5 style architecture.

EDIT - I should add if you want cruise, wire is the way to go. You would need a VSS but its very easy to add an inline one with the cable. Dakota Digital sells them for 8k AC sign signal.
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Yeah ultimately this elaborate swap is to gain the benefit with cruise control. I do a lot of highway towing or 2 lane road towing so a bench seat and some good music and taking it slow is nice but my ankle would appreciate not being on the gas the whole time.
 
I thought I was the only one with bad ankles and that bothering me.. I resort to boots for this reason
 
sreidmx said:
I thought I was the only one with bad ankles and that bothering me.. I resort to boots for this reason
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I'm 6'4" my legs are just too long, it always puts it at an odd angle. In my rx8 I re welded the seat brackets on the rails 3" forward so I can get more leg room. Common thing for me in any car is mess with the seat but I usually stretch my legs out and let cruise control do the work.
 
Something I didn't consider in regards to the T-case, Ideally I would just use the one that came with the 4L80E but finding a passenger side drop may be tricky, the silverados I see are all driver side drop.
 
Well the truck was a bust, the body/frame were in surprisingly rust free/good condition for nearly 300k but everything else was bad. the truck was missing, didnt shift well, air ride blown etc etc. Not worth it.

I took a look at a 6.0 donor truck yesterday and it ran great and was a perfect candidate being rusty with new tires and needed wheel bearings/suspension replaced but it just didn't have the power as I expected.

now I gotta find me a non clapped out burban/yukon to test drive because I am leaning towards this big block idea a lot more. Considering any of the small blocks will be like my current one, needs to be wound out for towing. Whereas a big block is gobs of torque.
 
Well after much debate and looking at many LQ4 and L18 powered trucks I have decided to sell this truck because I found locally a 2008 3/4 ton suburban with only 54k miles on it. If anyone is interested I'm asking 4500.


Here are the key details:

· Full aftermarket autometer gauges

· Manual transmission

· New crate engine

o 4-bolt main with 2-piece rear main seal

o Cast iron crankshaft

o LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods

o Cast pistons (dished)

o Cast Hydraulic flat tappet cam (.383''/.401'' and 112° lobe separation)

o 8.5:1 compression ratio

· 4.10 axle ratio with NP208 T-case w/ floor shifter and warn locking front hubs

· 14 bolt rear axle with locker

· 10 bolt front axle open differential

· Gas tank skid plate (Silverado package)

· Fully maintained, needs no fluids or u-joints or wheel bearings have been replaced with the past 2 years

· Balljoints and suspension overhauled within the last 12 months

· Bilstein shocks

· New brakes all around (less than 1000 miles on them)

· Extra rust free tailgate w/o stickers

· Brake controller included

· 35” toyos all terrains are new (~15k miles)

· Serpentine belt swap (no more annoying V-belt whine

· Factory equipped hydroboost

· HD radiator (originally equipped for the diesel) with twin electric fans wired to a thermostat

· Hooker headers and custom mandrel bent true dual exhaust with real mufflers

· Recent tune up (cap/coil/rotor) and oil change

· Windshield replaced in 2014

· Upgraded washer pump for more capacity and higher volume

· New alternator and newish power steering pump, water pump, engine dampener

· CB radio with whip





Like I said this is a well maintained truck, all it needs is a 6” lift kit and this would be your ultimate off road vehicle. PM me or email me at fidelity101 AT gmail.com The truck is located NW of Detroit in Waterford MI 48328.
 
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Here is what the truck looks like as of today:


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