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1986 K30 6.2 Diesel Truggy Build - "The Mule"

Welcome to page two of the build thread! (those that are using 100 post per page)

I finally got around to removing the Detroit locker from the spare 14 bolt I had laying in the shop (from the Blazer I parted). My 14 bolt right now has the dreaded G80 so I already picked up an open 4.56 and up carrier from my local square body parts source aka newoldscottsdale77. Eventually I will get the Detroit and new carrier swapped into my axle when I have time.

I also decided I needed some backup lights so I found these small LED light pods at Sidetracked Offroad and the price was right.





2.5" x 2.5" x 2.5" cast aluminum construction with one 10w CREE LED that draws one amp. I ordered these Monday and they showed up today 2 days later. Seem well constructed and are freaking bright. We will see how they hold up. This is with just the two light pods.



I think this is where I am going to mount them.



I found out tonight that my backup light switch under the column is not working but no sweat because I will be going to an Art Carr shifter that I already have and I will need an aftermarket switch to activate the reverse lights like one Lokar makes.

I am also working on planning out the flat belly skid plate and trans mount but I can't complete that until I get the 4 link straightened out (hopefully shortly).
 
So it has been a while. No real progress. Waiting to get the 4 link re-done. New date is December 3rd.

I did pick up some new goodies:

One long and two short brand new 4340 inner axle shafts that I bought locally.





I already have D70 35 spline outers but I will probably upgrade to 4340. Now I just have to decide what U joints to buy most likely just Spicer lifetime joints for now.

Also picked up a rear suck down winch. When I built the truck I decided to go ahead and add a full size winch for the suck down and it could be used for a rear winch if needed. Decided on a Rugged Ridge 8500. I could not turn down the 8500 lb winch for $225 from Amazon delivered with a 5 year warranty. Looks very similar to my Smittybilt 10K even uses the same remote.



I need to weld on a fairlead mount. I bought the winch now so I could mock up the fairlead and also I want to add some extra bracing and wanted make sure it would clear.
 
Quick off topic picked up this gem today:



1978 F-250 Snowfighter. 351M engine, NP435 4 speed, NP205 T-case and best of all high pinion Dana 60 front and FF Dana 60 rear. Truck has 58K original miles and I bought it from the original owners son. It has been sitting for 2 years because it needs new rear brake lines. Got it fired up and drove on the trailer. Paid less for the whole truck than the front axle is worth here on the east coast.



It has some rust issues doors, cab corners, and floors, but the bed is from an 80s ford and it is in great shape.





Gotta love the multiple colors. Definitely a Redneck truck.



And that is why I bought it high pinion Dana 60. Makes me wish my Atlas was driver drop. I was hoping for 4.10 but from the door they are 3.54.

It runs pretty well on the 2 year old gas in the tank. I plan on parting it out. It also seems that Fords are over running my driveway!



The Bronco with the snowplow was my old offroad truck almost back to stock now. Also don't worry I own 4 GM products in addition to these cough Fords. Back to making no progress on my actual build.
 
Well yesterday was officially the 1 year anniversary of my "build". December 1st is when I dropped the truck off to start the exo and back half. Ironically enough I dropped the truck of at the new shop Friday to redo the 4 link. I will post some pics as we work on the new 4 link layout. My goal is to finish before the 2 year mark. We shall see . . .
 
Love the build! Really looks like its coming along great :waytogo:

Wanted to note on the front shaft if you figure out you have binding issues at the front joint when the suspension droops give Jess at High Angle a call or check out his new flange system for the Dana 60 pinion. Pretty slick setup and adds additional angle capability. I just had my front shaft done there and was considering this route, but am going to try the shims and 1410 combo first.

Can't wait to see the product after the links are fixed and you get it out on the trails!
 
Can't wait to see this thing in action :waytogo: looking awesome so far !!

Out of curiosity, any clue on what it weighs ?
 
Out of curiosity, any clue on what it weighs ?

When I weighed it using a trailer tongue weight scale by jacking each of the 4 corners up I got about 6,000 lbs (4K front 2K rear). But that was with the stock pizza cutter tires. I am guessing by the time I add a spare tire, tools, rear winch, belly skid I will be in the 6,500 -7,000 lbs trail weight range. It is not a light weight that is for sure.
 
Just wondering, I know my K30 as it sits with no tools or spares and 2/3-3/4 tank of fuel weighs almost exactly 6k (it was 6230 with me and my son in it :D)
 
Making some progress on the 4 link re-work. All old brackets are cut off. the upper link axles mounts are moved in closer to each other.



All brackets off. Notice the extra bracing in the lower tube frame. That was not possible before because the upper links ran through there.



We were able to save the axle upper link mounts just moved them closer. The lower link axle mounts are getting moved outboard for more triangulation and the shock tabs are getting lengthened to have less shock shaft exposed at ride height.

Looks like we will be able to save the upper links and build new longer lower links. I think we have the geometry worked out to be 5-6 degrees of roll oversteer and 70% anti squat.

I also have been doing a lot of research on sway bars. It is pretty clear that the rear needs a sway bar. It is very soft and the rear suspension seems to do all the work and not let the front leaves flex. Playing around in the yard the truck wants to lean on side hills too.

I originally talked to Currie about using one of their universal kits. They could not really tell me which bar would work on my truck and were not very helpful. Next I spoke with PAC Spring (recommended by people on pirate). They make a nice kit with a custom length sway bar for your application. Their kit was $800 and they recommended a 37" long 1.25" diameter bar with 18" arms.

Finally I called Kick Ass Offroad (also recommended on pirate). They seemed the most knowledgeable. After talking to them for a while it turns out that a large number of KOH rigs are running Kick Ass Offroad sway bars and he makes many of the bars for other companies. He recommended a 38-39" long 1.5" diameter bar with 20" arms. All their parts are made to order for your application. His kit was $750. I guess I will be adding that to the huge list of parted needed to finish this truck.
 
Outstanding build. I just read the entire thread again. Do you have any close up pictures of the old 4 link attachments before you cut them off? Were they just welded to the frame stub that the tube exits in the picture below?

DSCN5137.jpg
 
Outstanding build. I just read the entire thread again. Do you have any close up pictures of the old 4 link attachments before you cut them off? Were they just welded to the frame stub that the tube exits in the picture below?

Thank you. Yup you can see the shinny parts in the above pic where they were ground off. This pic is not a great one but you can see where the brackets were.



The new upper brackets will be inboard of the frame rails and the lowers will be dropped down 4 inches below the frame on a sub frame if you will.
 
Looks like we will be able to save the upper links and build new longer lower links. I think we have the geometry worked out to be 5-6 degrees of roll oversteer and 70% anti squat....

70% AS is pretty good, but 5-6* roll oversteer is still lousy.... You should keep working the link positions until that number is either neutral (0 degrees) or slightly negative (roll under steer).

You really owe it to yourself to get things right the second time around..... :deal:


-G
 
I think we finally have the winning 4 link layout that we are pretty happy with. The lower links are pretty long 54" and the uppers are like 38" long so almost on the 75% rule. I would like to make the uppers longer but the layout does not permit it.

Roll axis angle is 2-3 degrees oversteer (much better than 22 or even the 5-6 we had it laid out above) and the anti-squat is at 78% and only changes a few percent through the travel range. Measured for the driveshaft and only need like 3/4" of slip travel which is awesome and will allow me to run a standard slip shaft.



Shown at full bump notice the axle shock tabs have been lengthened.



hard to see but there is about 4.5" of vertical separation between the frame side uppers and lowers and 10" on the axle side.



This is shown at almost full droop but you can see the better triangulation.
 

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