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1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
On my truck I can turn the lights on without the key even in the ignition. So I was doing my testing with the truck off. The blinkers work fine now that the truck is running.

I'm super happy, thanks for everyone's help!!
 
shima said:
On my truck I can turn the lights on without the key even in the ignition. So I was doing my testing with the truck off. The blinkers work fine now that the truck is running.

I'm super happy, thanks for everyone's help!!
Click to expand...
Should work with just the ignition on truck off.
but happy for you that they work! :waytogo:
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate you helping me out.
  • Window adhesive on order from Amazon, thanks Wes.
  • 2x window channels on order from LMC. They rattle around a lot inside the door.
 
Didn't even think of that for a reason they wouldn't work. FWIW, my old K5 was a CUCV and the way they had those wired you could run the turn signals with the key off.
 
Hey guys, I wanted to pick your brains about getting my truck fired up correctly when it is cold. I am going to do some reading around on other forum threads, but I thought I would ask here as well because my intake and carb are both aftermarket. Maybe that doesn't really matter.

First just some high-level stuff about the engine:
  • 454
  • Weiand Street Warrior Intake Manifold
  • Edelbrock 1825 Carburetor
  • Manual Choke
  • The intake and carburetor were never adjusted after being installed - the previous owner said it ran well enough and he just left it as is. The only exception to this is that @Bent77 adjusted a few things for me when I was visiting him over the summer (thanks Mark!).
This is my first big block, my first carbureted engine, and my first manual choke (other than the one on my Harley).

When cold, the engine won't fire up on its own without priming the carb. So I keep a jerry can with gas in the bed. Whenever I want to drive the truck I pour a little gas into a coffee mug and then use one of these ear syringe things (thanks again @ZooMad75) to squirt the gas into the carb. I then pull the choke about half way out, pump the gas pedal a couple times, and try to fire it. It will commonly fire off and idle for a few seconds and then die. After that happens I can get it started by just trying again.

Here are the types of questions floating around in my head:
  1. Should I pull the choke out all the way before trying to start it? I've been doing a sort of half choke.
  2. Should I keep the choke pulled out all the way for a little bit while the truck is idling so that it can warm up? I tend to push the choke back in once the truck fires up.
  3. Do you guys ever drive with the choke pulled all the way out? The previous owner told me to keep the choke pulled out for a little bit until the truck is fully warm.
  4. Should I let the truck warm up by letting it idle, or should I warm it up by just gently driving away?
  5. It's a real pain in the a** to remove the air cleaner and prime the carb every time I want to start the truck. The carb came with an adjustment kit and a CD-ROM... is it pretty easy to adjust so that it will start on its own without priming?
Anyhow, you get the idea. I don't really know what I'm doing and I bet you guys have an easy-to-follow routine that gets these big blocks started up every time. Thanks for any input as always.

Here's a pic of the truck that I just took. I love this thing so much.

PXL_20211123_000204195.jpg
 
I have run a few different Edelbrock carbs and always had good luck with cold starting.
They have all been electric choke though. It was always one pump of the throttle to set the choke and have the accelerator pump shoot some gas down the throat and they would fire right off. I would always let the truck warm up for a few minutes definitely before I took the choke off and drove away. For sure full choke at first. On the electric choke models you can dial in how long to choke runs. Is your accelerator pump functioning properly? You'll see it shoot some gas down the front two bores if you crack the throttle.
 
You should only need to prime the carburetor if it sits for a couple of weeks, IMO. The gas seems to evaporate out of the float bowls quickly, especially with an open element air cleaner. (Don't remember what your truck has.) My truck with an Edelbrock carb will usually prime itself while cranking, so I just let it build oil pressure while it pulls gas to the carb.
So, how long does it sit when you have to prime the carburetor manually?

I usually pull the choke on fully while cranking and back it off some after it fires up. If it's really cold blooded, you have to listen to what it wants. Lots of black smoke from the exhaust is bad for a gas engine, so don't keep it choked so hard that it smokes black. Warmer air temperatures require less enrichment of the mixture, so less choke, for less time.

It's kinda hard to flood a big block , in my opinion, so give it more choke than you have been and see how it responds. And back the choke off as it increases in RPM. You may be able to hold 1/2 choke for several minutes.

I always let it warm up some before driving away, it depends on engine and ambient air temperatures as to how long. Cold and carburetors don't let you drive away quickly and nicely as soon as you get it running.
 
So yes leave the choke on while it warms up. I never pull away before 30 seconds of idling on a cold motor, longer most times and longer yet as the temp drops. where to put the choke is matter of temperature and elevation, jetting all engines are going to different. You want to pull it out to where the engine runs smooth doesn't die when you step on the gas, but the rpm is around 1500 to 1700, parked. You can drive with the choke on. You want to push it in from start position, so rpm is lower 1000 to 1200.

The reason you need to prime the carb on a cold start, the gas evaporated from the bowl and the fuel pump lost prime, is why it dies after start then will restart normal on next crank.
 
even if you can drive away on cold motor, remember cold oil = bad wear on an engine. let that oil get warm before you drive away.
 
All this is why I’m going fuel infected on the new motor. Although I never had an issue with my edelbrock and electric choke, even in 0* weather. Turned the key, whacked the throttle once or twice, fired off, put it in gear and drove away. Although on dads bronco that same carb is much more finicky.
 
Thanks guys.

Cheavyk10 said:
I have run a few different Edelbrock carbs and always had good luck with cold starting.
They have all been electric choke though. It was always one pump of the throttle to set the choke and have the accelerator pump shoot some gas down the throat and they would fire right off. I would always let the truck warm up for a few minutes definitely before I took the choke off and drove away. For sure full choke at first. On the electric choke models you can dial in how long to choke runs. Is your accelerator pump functioning properly? You'll see it shoot some gas down the front two bores if you crack the throttle.
Click to expand...
I'll have a buddy help me check the accelerator pump soon. I have never checked it. Thanks for the suggestion on full choke.

6872xtc said:
You should only need to prime the carburetor if it sits for a couple of weeks, IMO. The gas seems to evaporate out of the float bowls quickly, especially with an open element air cleaner. (Don't remember what your truck has.) My truck with an Edelbrock carb will usually prime itself while cranking, so I just let it build oil pressure while it pulls gas to the carb.
So, how long does it sit when you have to prime the carburetor manually?

I usually pull the choke on fully while cranking and back it off some after it fires up. If it's really cold blooded, you have to listen to what it wants. Lots of black smoke from the exhaust is bad for a gas engine, so don't keep it choked so hard that it smokes black. Warmer air temperatures require less enrichment of the mixture, so less choke, for less time.

It's kinda hard to flood a big block , in my opinion, so give it more choke than you have been and see how it responds. And back the choke off as it increases in RPM. You may be able to hold 1/2 choke for several minutes.

I always let it warm up some before driving away, it depends on engine and ambient air temperatures as to how long. Cold and carburetors don't let you drive away quickly and nicely as soon as you get it running.
Click to expand...
I pretty much prime it any time I want to start the truck. If it has only been sitting 2-4 hours then I can usually get it started without priming. I do indeed have an open element air cleaner on it. I'll let it sit a couple minutes before driving off from now on.

Wes Harden said:
So yes leave the choke on while it warms up. I never pull away before 30 seconds of idling on a cold motor, longer most times and longer yet as the temp drops. where to put the choke is matter of temperature and elevation, jetting all engines are going to different. You want to pull it out to where the engine runs smooth doesn't die when you step on the gas, but the rpm is around 1500 to 1700, parked. You can drive with the choke on. You want to push it in from start position, so rpm is lower 1000 to 1200.

The reason you need to prime the carb on a cold start, the gas evaporated from the bowl and the fuel pump lost prime, is why it dies after start then will restart normal on next crank.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip Wes. Man, I wish I had a tachometer! I will just try to listen to the RPMs and adjust the choke once I hear the pitch change.
 
centexk5 said:
All this is why I’m going fuel infected on the new motor. Although I never had an issue with my edelbrock and electric choke, even in 0* weather. Turned the key, whacked the throttle once or twice, fired off, put it in gear and drove away. Although on dads bronco that same carb is much more finicky.
Click to expand...
I was pretty excited that this truck came with a carburetor. I had never owned a carbureted truck and I was excited to learn more about them. Hopefully I can get it dialed in with some adjustments... and if not I'll get aftermarket EFI! lol
 
You shouldn't have to prime it if it just sits overnight, or even a few nights.
Really makes me wonder what the heck is up.
I urge you to learn how to deal with a carburetor, even if you end up with injection years later. Ya can't let old technology beat you!
I have a big block truck with a Quadrajet, and it will probably never have anything else, because it sounds awesome when I open it up!
:saweet:
 
So our terrific ethanol-laden fuel can evaporate a little quicker than straight gasoline, but you should not have to prime the carb even if you shut it down a couple of hours before. Since it's an Edelbrock carb it really can't leak out of the bowl into the intake like a q-jet, so it's not leaking. My bet is the accelerator pump is weak. You don't need a second guy to check that. Pull the lid off the air cleaner with the engine OFF. Take the throttle linkage and snap it open quickly a couple of times while watching down the throat of the carb. You should see it squirt fuel down the primary barrels.

Cold starting is as others have indicated will depend on how cold it really is. If the accelerator pump works it should only take a couple of pumps on the pedal to get the fuel needed to start on. Pull the choke all the way out and crank it over. Depending on how it's running you may have to push the choke back in a little to keep the engine running. Let it warm up to the point where it idles cleanly with the choke all the way off. Could be a minute or five to get to that point depending on outside temp.
 
I much prefer the manual choke over electric. When starting the 66 I pull the choke fully. Once it's running I start backing off the choke until the idle is smooth; it's always obvious where it wants to be. Once it's idling smooth, I leave it there for a block or 2 and then take the choke off completely.

There's some chance the fuel pump is weak too. The 66 will crank for a while but does eventually start without needing to add fuel manually. It usually sits for weeks at a time.

If nothing was changed in the Edelbrock out of the box, it most certainly needs to be jetted down for altitude. Usually 2 jet sizes for the front range. To be honest, I don't know much if anything about Edelbrock carbs. I've always preferred Holley type carbs. So they may not use jets, but there should be something along those lines that meters fuel that would need changed for altitude.

I hope you're not using ethanol laden fuel, especially with it sitting for long periods of time. Buy ethanol free gas.
 
Pure-gas.org for a listing of gas stations selling non-ethanol fuel.

Highly recommend for any vehicle with a carb that don't get driven every day.
 
I'm psyched we got a new gas station 4 miles from my house selling clear gas. Used to have to drive 20 miles.
 
The Chevron gas station down the street from me sells ethanol free for $5.50 something a gallon. Regular was $3.99 today.
 
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