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1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
shima said:
Man I made a mess last night.

I separated the passenger window from its track because it was already coming loose. I cleaned the window with glass cleaner and I tried cleaning out the track with a rag and brake clean. Then I tried applying fresh adhesive. The window glass had a black "pad-like" material on it where the track used to be. I wasn't sure if that was old adhesive or a separate part so I tried adding new adhesive on top of the old material. Looking back on it, I am thinking that was probably wrong.

Anyhow the adhesive I was using was this stuff from 3M. I bought it many years ago and it has just been sitting on the shelf. The viscosity was so thick that I could not get it to squeeze out of the tube. I started trying to step on it to get the stuff out. Only a small bit (1/8") would come out at a time. Then it started leaking and getting everywhere. After a while I got frustrated and sorta stomped on it. The whole tube blew into two pieces.

I said screw it and just used my hand to scoop out the adhesive and apply it as best I could to the window and the track. I got that stuff everywhere. It was all over my hands, I got it on my tools, my clothes, etc.

I didn't take any pictures, but I should have. Both of my hands were black. It took forever to get it all off.

Fingers are crossed that the passenger window is firmly glued to its track now. I got a little bit of glue on the window itself, but not much. Hoping I can get it all cleaned up.
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I can relate.
I have done that once or twice.
It's frustrating but now if it's dried up cleaning the window is easy with a razor blade
 
It has been a long time since I've bumped this thread!

The windows are back in with fresh window seals. The truck is a lot quieter now when I go over bumps, which I appreciate. I'm also no longer afraid of breaking my windows when I close the doors. One downside is that it's nearly impossible to roll my driver's side window up and down now. I figure something is bent up pretty bad in the door's internals.

Since doing that job, I haven't touched the truck much. My next thing that I want to tackle is the fuel filter. The P.O. put in a Russell in-line filter with braided fuel line. Vice Grip Garage has nailed it into my head that the clear plastic style is best, so I picked up one of those. From looking at it, it seems like I will need to replace everything between the fuel pump and the carb.

Here is a video showing what is installed:
View attachment PXL_20231106_005003441.mp4

So I think going from carb to pump my shopping list looks something like this:
  • Fuel Inlet Fitting
    • The P.O. gave me some parts, but I don't think I have this laying around anywhere.
  • 3/8" Fuel Line
  • Fuel Filter
    • Already have this - bought the AutoZone version of Wix 33003.
Does anyone know if I'll need to purchase a fitting for the fuel pump side, similar to what I'm buying for the carburetor side?
 
I can't get the video to play, so I can't see what you have. Usually it's a short piece of rubber line between the fuel pump and the hard line on the frame. A replacement from the parts store will usually have the barb fittings on it. If it looks old, you might want to replace the short piece of rubber line.
 
To me the clear plastic filters are a fire hazard. I prefer metal ones myself, probably over thinking it but if that plastic cracks, you have gas on a hot intake :angry1:
 
mrk5 said:
I can't get the video to play, so I can't see what you have. Usually it's a short piece of rubber line between the fuel pump and the hard line on the frame. A replacement from the parts store will usually have the barb fittings on it. If it looks old, you might want to replace the short piece of rubber line.
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Thanks @mrk5 !

I am just worried that since the P.O. switched to a braided fuel line setup, he may have modified the fuel pump in some way. It looks like on the carburetor he removed this piece when installing the braided line setup:

1699289131189.png

So I obviously have to buy that piece when going back to rubber line. Hopefully on the fuel pump side there is a clear "outlet" for fuel that I can just jam a rubber hose onto. I am hoping to take a look later this week.
 
Not sure why your removing the braided hose. Can we see a picture/s of this set up. Pump end filter and car connection
 
I think that looks like a legit fuel line install. Why not just replace that existing fuel filter with a new one
 
Wes Harden said:
I think that looks like a legit fuel line install. Why not just replace that existing fuel filter with a new one
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I didn't think the braided line setup was compatible with that style of filter I want to use, but I'll start by pulling out the old Russell filter and see what I'm left with.
 
I would never put a plastic or glass filter on top of an intake manifold. Not a big fan of rubber fuel hose on top of an intake manifold.
Back in the 69 and 70s furd had 2" rubber hose from metal line to filter at carb. That hose was responsible for many engine fires. Having a rubber hose is not deal breaker if you know it needs to be inspected more often and replaced when shows signs of age or wear.
I don't see anything wrong with your current set up. Why do you want to change it?
 
Wes Harden said:
I would never put a plastic or glass filter on top of an intake manifold. Not a big fan of rubber fuel hose on top of an intake manifold.
Back in the 69 and 70s furd had 2" rubber hose from metal line to filter at carb. That hose was responsible for many engine fires. Having a rubber hose is not deal breaker if you know it needs to be inspected more often and replaced when shows signs of age or wear.
I don't see anything wrong with your current set up. Why do you want to change it?
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I think it would be nice to be able to see inside the filter. These Russell filters are also considerably more expensive (~$30 each). Neither of those two points are a massive deal - I suppose I could just get a new Russell and swap it pretty easily.
 
Not much more than a tbi filter. larger than the plastic one, should last longer. Esp if tank is clean
 
Wes Harden said:
Also I am thinking that Russell filter might serviceable replace element inside
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I think that is true. The replaceable filter element is unfortunately just as expensive ($27) as a new filter. Maybe I can find a good deal on them somewhere.
 
I missed the part where fuel delivery was suspect. What are the symptoms? One idea is to just disconnect at the carb, unplug the dizzy, hit the starter and see how much fuel dumps into a can. Do you have a gauge to check pressure?
 
If you run the clear plastic filter, keep it up off the manifold and don't let it rub on anything. Also watch that it won't bounce against something. Also buy a good name brand filter. I think you said you're getting a Wix.

BTW, the rubber line I was mentioning earlier is on the tank side/inlet of the pump.

I'm curious how the previous owner adapted the braided line to the pump. I've used a compression to AN adapter so that a lot of the original hard line remains. Maybe @shima could grab a photo of the fuel pump.
 
Okay, the video worked tonight! That's actually a really nice setup. It does look like an adapter was added to the fuel pump. You could get AN to barbed adapter for the pump.

I'd encourage you to keep it, but I understand I'd you want to do it how you'd like.
 
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