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1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
I ended up ordering this hose from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-220-10444

I placed the order on Friday, and it was supposed to be here Tuesday... then it was supposed to be here today... now it is supposed to be here tomorrow.

In the meantime, I am going to try and drain + refill the gear oil in my SM465. I did some reading on the forums and most folks appear to believe that 80w90 gear oil is a fine enough choice. I'm gonna swing by the auto parts store tonight after work and pick that up along with this spout tool thing to make the job easier.
 
I’m a firm believer in using the right fluid. What does it call for?

Different but I had a Chevy Tracker that shifted like shit and the transfer case wouldn’t even go into low. Discovered the PO had put 75w90 with LS additive into both. The LS additive didn’t play well with the synchros.
Refilled both with Redline MT90 and it was a whole different vehicle. Shifted smooth and the trans went into low with ease.
 
The Haynes just says 80W GL-5. Not sure what the GL-5 portion of that is.

I wish I had the factory maintenance schedule booklet still. I looked in my owner's manual and it just said, "Check the maintenance schedule booklet to see the suggested fluid type." lol

PXL_20240815_231937876.jpg
 
okay so I am going to stir the pot here. We do or don't know if Shima's sm465 has brass syncro's ? Gl5 is mildly corrosive to brass. This trans was designed when gl3 ? was the spec ? A good GL4 gear oil would be best. Also since you are in a cold area a lower viscosity, straight 50w if you can find it, 75w90 if you can't.
 
If that had been around when I fixed my Tracker ten+ years ago I’d have likely chose it.
 
I worked on bleeding my clutch today. It went... not so great.

My first task was to replace the hose that runs from the master reservoir to the master cylinder. I did some hunting online and found this hose on Summit that worked really well.

PXL_20240821_023827914.jpg

Then I had to run and grab an 8" c-clamp from HF. I had been reading and hearing that the job is a lot easier if you use a something to compress the slave cylinder (shout out to a few old posts and some DMs with @sweetk30)... so I went out and grabbed one before getting started. It was awkward, but eventually I got the slave cylinder in place inside the c-clamp so that the bleeder nipple was up high and everything was "secure" (ish).

PXL_20240824_205426561.jpg

I cracked the bleeder nipple and attached my lone-wolf bleeder tool (i.e. a Powerade bottle with a hose) to it.

When pressing on the clutch pedal, it was incredibly stiff. I pushed slowly and checked the Powerade bottle after every go. Some real nasty black stuff came out that you can see in this video:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A7KPcLqNoT4es9QU6

Unfortunately I eventually sprung a leak somewhere. It looks like it is leaking from the soft brake line that feeds into the slave cylinder.

Do you guys know why the clutch pedal would have been so stiff? Was it because the slave cylinder was compressed, or maybe beacuse of all that black gunk that came out?

Anyhow, I gotta figure out now how to replace the line between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. Gonna look into that later this weekend.

EDIT: Just placed an order for DORMAN H38559. Should be here by Tuesday.
 
Last edited:
Yes the volume of hydraulic fluid being force out the small bleeder screw hole is why. Resistance to flow creates pressure. Try opening the bleeder screw a turn or two more. Maybe even remove it and make sure the hole is clean, no mud or dried dirt blocking the passage.
 
shima said:
I worked on bleeding my clutch today. It went... not so great.

My first task was to replace the hose that runs from the master reservoir to the master cylinder. I did some hunting online and found this hose on Summit that worked really well.

View attachment 484594

Then I had to run and grab an 8" c-clamp from HF. I had been reading and hearing that the job is a lot easier if you use a something to compress the slave cylinder (shout out to a few old posts and some DMs with @sweetk30)... so I went out and grabbed one before getting started. It was awkward, but eventually I got the slave cylinder in place inside the c-clamp so that the bleeder nipple was up high and everything was "secure" (ish).

View attachment 484595

I cracked the bleeder nipple and attached my lone-wolf bleeder tool (i.e. a Powerade bottle with a hose) to it.

When pressing on the clutch pedal, it was incredibly stiff. I pushed slowly and checked the Powerade bottle after every go. Some real nasty black stuff came out that you can see in this video:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A7KPcLqNoT4es9QU6

Unfortunately I eventually sprung a leak somewhere. It looks like it is leaking from the soft brake line that feeds into the slave cylinder.

Do you guys know why the clutch pedal would have been so stiff? Was it because the slave cylinder was compressed, or maybe beacuse of all that black gunk that came out?

Anyhow, I gotta figure out now how to replace the line between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. Gonna look into that later this weekend.

EDIT: Just placed an order for DORMAN H38559. Should be here by Tuesday.
Click to expand...
You mentioned black stuff coming out.
I remember @ZooMad75 was having trouble with his and it was the seals melting or dissolving.
Hopefully he will chime in.
I remember he had to change the slave cylinder
 
imiceman44 said:
You mentioned black stuff coming out.
I remember @ZooMad75 was having trouble with his and it was the seals melting or dissolving.
Hopefully he will chime in.
I remember he had to change the slave cylinder
Click to expand...
The only reason mine fought me is I left the hose off the slave and it completely emptied the reservoir. I couldn't get the air out. I used a vacuum tool from HF with Drews's help we had it bled in about 15 minutes. It was Mike with the yellow camper that was getting the crap dissolving from the master or slave. Can't remember.
 
ZooMad75 said:
The only reason mine fought me is I left the hose off the slave and it completely emptied the reservoir. I couldn't get the air out. I used a vacuum tool from HF with Drews's help we had it bled in about 15 minutes. It was Mike with the yellow camper that was getting the crap dissolving from the master or slave. Can't remember.
Click to expand...
Oh you are right.
So I thought he said he saw black fluid or black stuff come out.
Maybe I am getting senile
 
I wrapped up the clutch bleed job and also swapped the gear oil in my trans.

For the gear oil, I got this pump from HF (thanks for the suggested pump type @mrk5). It was really helpful because it had a clip on the hose end that "locked" it into the fill hole in the trans. Below is a video - disregard the Redline bottle (it was left behind by a friend long ago and was best compatible with the pump).

View attachment PXL_20240902_202909503.TS.mp4

When first trying to bleed the clutch, it was really hard to press the clutch pedal. Turns out that my dumb a** just didn't have the bleeder cracked enough (thanks @Wes Harden!!).

I got everything buttoned up and hit the clutch a few times looking for leaks. When the bleeder wasn't cracked fully, some brake fluid was leaking from the soft line between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder... but once I opened the bleeder up more that leaking stopped. I started the truck and hit the clutch a few more times... and a few drops came out. Looks like it's actually coming from the slave cylinder now and is no longer leaking from that soft line. I have started shopping for a new master cylinder and a new slave cylinder. Anyone have a suggestion on brand? I have seen Luk stuff on YouTube but it looks like Dorman has both items available as well.

Despite the small leak I decided to pull the truck out of the garage and to use it for some "yard work". There was an old ugly plant on the side of my garage that was overgrown. There was also a tree of heaven in the same area. I decided to pull it all out. Here is a video and an "after" pic.

View attachment PXL_20240902_213604399.TS.mp4

PXL_20240902_232637043.jpg
 
I've been driving the truck a fair bit lately, even with the leaking slave cylinder.

First off, wanted to mention I decided to go with the LuK master cylinder and slave cylinder. They'll be here Saturday.

In my last post, I had a video of me pulling out a big plant next to the garage... in that video you can see that the truck bed is loaded with crap. It had both donation items and scrap metal in it.

Last night, I went by Goodwill and they took some of my donation stuff... then I went by Arc and they took the rest of it.

Today, I did my first scrap metal run! I have been "collecting" scrap metal since 2014 so I had a lot of it (at least I think it is a lot).

Here are the stats from my receipt:
  • Weight in: 6,680 lbs
  • Weight out: 5,840 lbs
  • Tire deduction (4 tires): 120 lbs
  • Grand total: 6,680 - 5,840 = 840 lbs... -120 lbs for tires = 720 lbs = $34!
So I guess my K30 weighs about 5,840 lbs when empty.

All of that stuff above was ferrous metal. I had a little shoebox of non-ferrous metal and an old AC condenser that I just gave to them because they were closing and I just wanted to see it be recycled. I feel so happy getting rid of all of that stuff.

Here are some pics!

PXL_20240905_213154637.jpg

PXL_20240905_214337671.jpg

PXL_20240905_215356788.jpg
 
shima said:
I've been driving the truck a fair bit lately, even with the leaking slave cylinder.

First off, wanted to mention I decided to go with the LuK master cylinder and slave cylinder. They'll be here Saturday.

In my last post, I had a video of me pulling out a big plant next to the garage... in that video you can see that the truck bed is loaded with crap. It had both donation items and scrap metal in it.

Last night, I went by Goodwill and they took some of my donation stuff... then I went by Arc and they took the rest of it.

Today, I did my first scrap metal run! I have been "collecting" scrap metal since 2014 so I had a lot of it (at least I think it is a lot).

Here are the stats from my receipt:
  • Weight in: 6,680 lbs
  • Weight out: 5,840 lbs
  • Tire deduction (4 tires): 120 lbs
  • Grand total: 6,680 - 5,840 = 840 lbs... -120 lbs for tires = 720 lbs = $34!
So I guess my K30 weighs about 5,840 lbs when empty.

All of that stuff above was ferrous metal. I had a little shoebox of non-ferrous metal and an old AC condenser that I just gave to them because they were closing and I just wanted to see it be recycled. I feel so happy getting rid of all of that stuff.

Here are some pics!

View attachment 485659

View attachment 485660

View attachment 485661
Click to expand...
How cute.
I have been collecting for 2 years and I made in the past month 3 runs, each getting around $100 in steel and close to $200 in non ferrous.
I have 2 more runs at least and should make at least another $500.
And the space that I will reclaim.
 
I got (basically) everything replaced between the clutch pedal and the transmission!
  • New clutch master cylinder
  • New hydraulic line
  • New slave cylinder
Bleeding the new stuff was kind of a pain, but I compressed the new slave cylinder using zip ties and that helped a lot.

Now that I am done, I have a couple of questions...
  1. The truck wouldn't start after I did the job because of the neutral start switch. I added a few zip ties onto the switch so that I could artificially shorten the "stroke", and it started up after that. I don't know what would cause the pedal travel to change and am a little confused by that. Maybe the new master cylinder has a longer actuator arm thing that connects to the clutch pedal?

  2. Once I got the truck fired up, I test drove it and everything felt good. That being said, I recorded a video of the slave cylinder pushing out and it doesn't look like it is extending all of the way. I could shift through the gears just fine, so maybe it doesn't matter. What do you guys think?
Pics and video from the job are below!

PXL_20240914_180914671.jpg
View attachment PXL_20240914_174348080.TS.mp4PXL_20240911_010847613.jpgPXL_20240911_010933687.jpgPXL_20240911_011033447.jpg
 
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