1987 V20 Suburban 350TBI/SM465

[fordmas]

Yes the push in connectors do leak after awhile. You can unscrew the existing connectors and replace with AN fittings and braided hose.

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That looks nice and clean!

I drove it around for about an hour after the oil change yesterday (when I found that leak) and it has since not leaked a bit. Previously, the puddles had show up rather quick but I wiped the ground and the wet areas after that oil change and its still dry. Makes me think maybe something wasn't tight or the oil filter gasket was leaking and sprayed some oil out under higher pressure. We'll see though.

I need an easy-ish way to uncake all the oil, grease, and debris from under the truck...

 

[fordmas]

She did this all on her own! So proud

 

[scouthead]

Well y'all, I did it. I jumped back in to the square body family. Picking up this beautiful stock 1987 V20 Suburban tomorrow in OK and driving her back to Austin. Nice clean slate, SM465, and 65,000 original miles. Really looking forward to this project


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This thing is going to be a general purpose rig. I've got a small farm so I need something I can carry crap around it or pull a small trailer as needed. This will also be our family adventure truck for camping and the like. And I want to be able to do some trails and offroading, but nothing super crazy.

Suspension
4 or 6 inch lift. Not 100% brand but TC seems to be the favorite these days. Lots of reading point to them being the nicest ride outside of customer spring packs. Since I'll be doing plenty of highway miles, that seems like a good bet. Also looking at ORDs Xtreme rear shackles, zero rates to move the axles a bit. I don't need anything wild, just want a good ride and enough flex to get around.

Tires
Haven't decided anything on wheels but for tires I'm thinking 35s or 37s, depending on where I land with the suspension. I'd prefer to not cut the body this time around. Looking for a good multi purpose tire. I don't mind a little road noise to get a tire that will do well in some mud and trails. Looking at Maxxis, MTs, and BFGs at the moment.

Driveline
1 tons are always on the mind but I don't know if I will really need them. I won't be going larger than 37s and no crazy rock crawling. I will have some added weight from bumpers, gears, and bodies but I'm still thinking on this one. Plus I'm thinking about air lockers and at that point I might as well go with 1 tons. I'm not sure if this has an NP208 or 241 but would probably change that out for a 205 at some point. Also like to convert the rear to disc brakes. I would like the truck to be as tough as financially possible...hate to break something while camping with the family.

Body
I like the low profile of the stock bumpers but I'm thinking I will swap them out. Something not too large and in the way...just enough space to mount a winch and some lights and protect the front. On the rear, I want to do a swing out tire carrier and maybe have a spot for a gas can or two. I'm on the fence about a roof rack. I think they are really hit or miss on these old suburban. Some just look like luke warm dog shit. I did see a thread on here a little while ago about a guy who made his own and it turned out quite well. Might need one, might not. I guess it depends on the kind of trip I want to take and if I want to sleep in the back or out in a tent and where I want to pack the gear. Plan on one of those flexible hood mount solar setups to keep batteries up and not have to worry about any extended radio or camping fridge or camping light usage. Thinking LED light replacements and put in some trail lights and general work/campsite lighting as well.

Engine
Not sure on this one. I've never had a 350 before. Last suburban was the 6.2. Maybe just a better intake. Maybe more.

Interior
Swap the front bench for buckets and build a center console. Clean up the dash a bit, sound dampening everything, add a radio and speakers, ham radio setup somewhere out of the way, run some LED lighting inside for night time campsite usage. Thinking about a slide out cargo carrier but weighing this vs having the option of a removable sleeping area in the back. Might fab up something where I can drop in a bed platform over the cargo slider. Still need to use this for carrying things around.

Thats all my sleep deprived brain can come up with right now. And plans always change

holy crap this thing is My blazer's big brother! if i could find one near me I would snatch it up! score!!

swap in factory 3:73 axles or good used 3:73 gearing on the cheap - will be fantastic. My blazer pulled off 35s like nothing with my last engine, feels a little lacking off the line now that i threw a used stock motor back in it.

I had dreams of building a Suburban like this and running the forged aluminum HD rims -not teh widest rims, but ive seen 285s on them several times, and i think some 315s once

 

[scouthead]

This is normal, right?

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mine look like that too...

 

[scouthead]

Been a bit since I posted but I finally got around to the fuel pump and sending unit. I dropped the front of the tank a bit to give me some room and cut out an access hatch. Used a marine grade hatch door with rubber seal to cover it. Haven’t bolted it down yet as I need to put rust converter down in the back first but it’s looking good. Going to put some Kilmat under the door too before I’m done.

So far I’ve replaced the fuel pump relay, injector pigtails, fuel filter, pump, and sending unit. The truck seems to idle smoother and has noticeably more pickup in 1st and 2nd. Sounds better too.

I went a few weeks where it started up every time but a few times recently it wouldn’t start. Only finished this up today but so far so good

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the cover is a nice touch. i did the same thing to my blazer but screwed a patch panel down using some of the floor of a suburban i recycled. you know, Toyota put factory hatches in the floors of a lot of Landcruiser's for just this purpose.

 

[fordmas]

Now that she’s running so much better and the interior rust/insulation project is underway, I’m starting to think about accessories and electrical.

I’m thinking about upgrading the exterior lights to LED (need some special relay for that right?) and putting a radio/speakers inside. Being those stock type items, thinking about a winch, extra exterior and interior lights, vhf/uhf radio.

I don’t want to create a wiring mess so I was thinking about adding a dedicated block for wiring the accessories to. Never done it before…anything I need to know? Are there different types that provide power always vs switched on vs running? Thinking some of those will run through switches like the lighting while others like radios and winch won’t.

Also thinking about my gauge cluster. Want to brighten it up with the chrome paint and brighter bulbs but I’m curious about gauge options. I’ve only got speed and fuel with indicator lights for oil, temp, and voltage. Should I be able to add proper gauges or am I missing the right sensors for that?

 

[Wes Harden]

Gauges can be added. Either aftermarket and use their wiring and sensors. Factory gauges would need the correct printed circuit and the wiring added to the cluster plug, and the correct sensors.

I have 1 led dome lamp and 1 incandescent, honestly I like the incandescent dome lamp better. leds don't attract bugs, I have heard haven't tested that. No special relay used. I do have leds in the instrument panel and love'm, only the one I used don't dim.

An accessory power tap will make things much cleaner in side
something like this would have plenty of room for future updates

Amazon.com

 

[fordmas]

Sounds like after market gauges would be simpler to add. Or maybe just swap the whole cluster for a consistent look. Have to see what options are out there. Was looking at another thread and saw someone who chrome painted the backing and upgraded the lights. Looks really nice and got me thinking about my lack of gauges.

I was thinking about running some led strips along the roof corners inside in a way to add dimmable indirect lighting instead of the domes. I’m thinking I’ll do cedar planks instead of a headliner and make a little pocket to tuck them in to keep glare down.

 

[Wes Harden]

If you got a cluster from a truck with full gauges, recommend, still need the sensors and additional wiring, thou some if not all of the idiot light wires may be able to be converted.


My dash Sylvania super bright led. No silver paint, only washed the cluster plastic.

 

[fordmas]

Looks good! Be really handy to know how fast I was going at night

 

[82355]

Factory clusters without a tach are a dime a dozen.

Martin

 

[fordmas]

Figured as much but wasn't sure if all the trucks come with the correct sensors to switch from dummy lights to actual gauges in a plug n play type swap or if there would be more to it than that.

 

[82355]

Figured as much but wasn't sure if all the trucks come with the correct sensors to switch from dummy lights to actual gauges in a plug n play type swap or if there would be more to it than that.

You would need to change the oil pressure and water temp sending units.

Martin

 

[scouthead]

If you got a cluster from a truck with full gauges, recommend, still need the sensors and additional wiring, thou some if not all of the idiot light wires may be able to be converted.


My dash Sylvania super bright led. No silver paint, only washed the cluster plastic.

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I have a tach... was thinking of hacking it into the standard cluster in my blazer... clip the wires where they enter the big connector and take them directly to the back of the gauges? . The tach tested and works correctly- don’t NEED it, but would be fun with the manual trans.

 

[fordmas]

Been a while since I’ve posted. Haven’t done too much but I did install the upgraded wiring harness for the lights in preparation of LEDs and got more Kilmat installed. Still have half the roof and the middle seats to do but I ran out. I got a few more boxes in today. Once I’m done with that, I’m swapping buckets in to the front, installing all new carpet with mass backing, and building a custom cedar plank headliner. In March I’m thinking I’ll order a Gear Vendors overdrive/gear split kit. I just need to figure out if I’m going to change rest and gears or not first. Then I think I’ll be doing an oil filter relocation kit as I’ve got a small leak from one of those shite fittings.

Kilmat made a huge difference so far. Can’t wait to get the interior all finished and move on to that overdrive

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

What size tank do you have and could I trouble you for some measurements to the sending unit before you button it up?

 

[fordmas]

@83ChevyK5Blazer, I believe its the 31 gal tank. It will never be buttoned up. I put in an access hatch that will be accessible through the carpet. Here are measurements:




This one I have the tape measure at the lip of the spare tire well on the driver side.



This is up against the passenger side (see below)


From edge of the cargo area (see below)

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

Appreciate it! Hopefully my 40gal centers up there. Your measurements will def help

 

[fordmas]

Hopefully they help. I'm guessing 31 gal because of the RPO codes in the glove box but I don't know if they ever swapped the tank. There are a few minor things that don't match the RPO codes and I've never actually filled the tank all the way up from empty. The damn pumps here cut you off at $75 and I only drive about 20 minutes once a week.

 

[fordmas]

Carpet kit is ordered!


I’m still trying to figure out if they make the interior panels for these spots between the wheel wells and the windows. Any ideas? I didn’t see them listed on summit or lmc.